About half past four in the afternoon, we left the place where we had experienced this terrible hurricane, and proceeded on our way towards the north. The camels walked slowly and with effort, for they were almost exhausted; the poor beasts looked jaded and dejected. The sight of this numerous caravan, destitute of water, and condemned to die of thirst, scattered over the arid land, was truly dismal. The camels gently shaking their heads, or ruminating, took their course towards the north, without requiring any direction. We advanced over a sandy soil covered with rocks, rising about five feet above its surface. Wrapped in my own reflections, I thought of the wisdom of divine Providence, which has anticipated all our wants. What a masterpiece of nature’s workmanship, said I, is the camel! If it were not for this wonderful animal, who could exist for a week without food, how could these deserts be traversed? No mortal would dare attempt it, or if any were rash enough to venture upon such an undertaking, certain death would be the reward of his temerity. These reflections are trite; but they were natural in the situation in which I was placed, and I wish to give an account of my thoughts as well as of my sensations and sufferings.
On the 24th of May, at nine in the morning, we halted in as barren a spot as usual. The night had been calm, and the heat stifling; the fatigue we endured was augmented by the quantity of sand which fell upon us all the time we were travelling. We continued all day in a state of impatient expectation mingled with fear; the Moors, seeing our dejection and sufferings, tried to encourage us with the hope of the speedy arrival of the messengers who had been sent in search of water: vain hope! none of them returned. Despair was general; to keep up our spirits, a small quantity of water was distributed, and we were told that the delay of our messengers was not occasioned by their finding no water, but by their finding it in small quantities, so that it took longer to fill the skins; that they would have returned immediately if they had met with no water. Alas! this was a mistake, as will shortly appear. That we might not lose time in uncertain expectation, we continued our journey towards the north, at about four o’clock in the afternoon, over a firmer soil than we had lately crossed, and equally covered with quartz; we proceeded all night in silence; nobody slept however, for we were all too thirsty. The Moors who drove the camels were mute, and relieved one another oftener than usual.
On the 25th, at nine in the morning, we halted in a plain of hard sand, producing a few herbs, which were speedily devoured by the camels. This plain was interspersed with hills of coarse red sand mixed with gravel. We had now only a skin and a half of water remaining for eleven persons, we had indeed more than that number with us, and the allowance was every time more and more scanty; we suffered beyond all expression. After drinking a few drops, we lay down to wait for those who were gone in search of a fresh supply. About ten in the morning the poor wretches arrived half dead with thirst, and as soon as they had been relieved, as far as our small store permitted, they told us that they had had great difficulty at first in finding the well; and that when they had reached it they were dreadfully disappointed to find it quite dry; they were by this time so tortured with thirst, that they resolved to kill a camel, that they might divide amongst them the water contained in its stomach! a poor resource, for the water was not pure, and there was very little of it. The blood of the animal would have been a great refreshment, but they durst not drink it for fear of infringing the laws of the Koran.
About four in the afternoon, after having drunk the rest of our water, we were again on our way, more thirsty than ever, and proceeding slowly towards the north, in the hope of reaching the wells of Telig by the morning of the 26th. At nine in the evening we stopped for prayer as usual; a Moor who accompanied us gave us each a little water, which we received most gratefully; it relieved us very much. The night was very hot like the preceding. About ten we turned for three miles to the east, along the foot of some high hills of moving sand.
On the 26th, at five in the morning, we passed near some large masses of white earth, which looked at a distance like houses in ruins; in this part is found a very fine grey sand. The camels, though laden, lay down to roll themselves, which raised a terrible dust; and the Moors had infinite difficulty in preventing them from doing so. I also observed in this place gravel of the same colour, and further on I found veins of white earth, of the same nature as the masses already mentioned. About three miles to the west we saw some sand-hills, covered with granite, the colour of wine-lees; it is very brittle, and appears to lie in strata three or four feet thick.
We travelled the whole morning in an extensive plain, enclosed by these hills; the soil was very hard, covered with rocks and red and black granite, in flaky strata like slate. About eight in the morning, after climbing a high hill, we descended into a sort of basin formed by hills of red granite; the chain extends from east to west; the highest point that we passed over was three or four hundred feet high. In this valley, the soil of which is composed of coarse yellow sand, are the wells of Telig. We found these much wished-for wells filled with sand; which the Moors immediately fell to work to clear out; the poor camels which had already become unmanageable, from knowing that they were near water, were then permitted to drink: when they were driven away by the whip, they ran off to a little distance, and came crowding again round the well, ruminating, and laying their heads on the damp sand which had been thrown out of it. The first water we drew up was very black and muddy; but, in spite of the sand which it contained, the camels fought for it with fury. These wells, which afford plenty of brackish water, are not more than three or four feet deep.
When the water was fit to drink, I went and thrust my head in amongst the camels to drink with them; a Moor permitted me to drink out of his leather bucket, for we had not stopped to unpack calabashes, which were our usual drinking vessels. To the east of these wells, where the ground is lowest, we saw the ruins of some houses built of bricks of white clay; they are almost buried in the sand which the wind drives over them: further on in the same direction, there is a great deal of white-veined earth like that with which these houses were constructed; it bears some resemblance to lime.
The whole day was employed in watering the camels, who seemed as if they would never be satisfied, and quarrelled for the last drop in the trough. I was forced to remain in the sun, for the Moors were so busy with their camels, that they never thought of pitching a tent. The east wind, which blew violently, rendered the day very unpleasant, particularly by the clouds of dust which it threw over us. As water was now abundant, we had a little rice cooked, which we ate with butter; it was the first meal we had taken since the evening of the 19th.
On the 27th, many of our companions went to Toudeyni, which, as far as I could learn from our travellers, is a little less than half a day’s journey to the west of the wells of Telig. From this little town is procured the salt which is brought from Timbuctoo to Jenné, and thence dispersed through all the Soudan. The salt mines, as I was informed, are three feet and a half or four feet below the surface of the ground; the salt is in thick strata, and is brought out in blocks, after which it is split into cakes of the size I have already described. These mines are the wealth of the country; they are worked by negro slaves, superintended by Moors, who live entirely upon rice and millet, brought from Timbuctoo, and cooked with camels’ flesh dried in the sun. The water which they drink filters through the salt, and is extremely brackish; to render it more palatable they put dokhnou and honey into it; and they also improve this detestable beverage by mixing with it a sort of cheese reduced to powder, which I have mentioned above, and which is nothing but curd dried in the sun.
On the 27th, about three in the evening, after having filled our skins with water, we broke up our camp, and journeyed to the N. W. hoping we might meet with some vegetation for the poor camels, which wanted food the more, for having quenched their thirst. About five in the afternoon, we halted on a tract of loose sand, of a grey colour, where we found a few scattered patches of grass, which the camels devoured with eagerness, harsh as it was, as they had not eaten scarcely any thing for a week.