As our tent was not pitched, I took shelter under that of the Trajacants. I found them drinking dokhnou, and talking over the adventures of their journey; the moment they saw me, they perceived that I was not an African; their first look announced their ill-will, and one of them asked me who I was. A Moor of our caravan who happened to be with me, spared me the trouble of answering; he took the affair into his own hands, and related, without any omission, the fiction which I had industriously circulated, and which was now received as truth amongst all those who knew me. They afterwards criticised my countenance, which did not seem to them to possess the genuine Arab character, though I was by this time exceedingly dark; but my complaint had entirely disfigured me. The Trajacants asked me many questions about the christians, and made me repeat a verse of the Koran which I had learnt by heart; they afterwards drank by turns, and then poured salt water upon what was left in the vessel, and asked me to drink.
On the 2d in the morning, Aly sent two of his Moors to look out for fodder; they went a great distance, and returned in the evening with two little bundles of straw, which were given to the animals, and immediately devoured. Sidi-Aly asked me to go to seek food for my camel; I replied that he might go himself, and I went to the tent of two Wadnoun marabouts. These men were very kind, and censured Sidi-Aly’s conduct towards me without reserve. All this day was employed in watering the beasts, and in laying in a stock of water for ourselves. The salt water penetrated our skins and ran out at the seams, in spite of all we could do. Some of the Trajacants set off before us.
On the 3rd, at five in the morning, we proceeded to the N. W. first crossing a chain of hills, and then travelling over a soil composed of black gravel, with flat, sharp-edged stones. We halted about half past eleven in a plain, in which were a few thorny plants for the camels to feed on. As we had plenty of water, we boiled a little rice with some morsels of camel’s flesh, which had been dried in the sun, and were as hard as leather. After this savoury repast, we lay down on the ground by our baggage, to rest.
On the 4th, at two in the morning, we prepared for departure, and directed our course N. N. W. till towards eleven; we travelled at first over very hard sand, and then crossed a chain of hills stretching from E. to W. About two in the afternoon, we halted, very much fatigued, because we had had to ascend the hills of loose sand amongst which we had encamped over night. I have observed that fodder is more abundant in these hilly tracts than it is elsewhere. I looked in vain for shells on these mountains; a search which was suggested by the idea that the sea may formerly have covered the site of these immense deserts.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Wells of Amoul-Gragim — Enormous serpents — High sand-hills called Helk — Wells of Amoul-Taf — Hills of various-coloured granite — Wells of el-Ekseif; very good water — Wells called Marabouty, el-Guedea, Mayara, and Sibicia — High and steep mountains, defiles and precipices — A severe fall — Encampment of Sidi-Aly —El-Harib — The Berbers — Tatta — Description of the country of el-Harib, customs; the tribes who inhabit it.
On the 5th of June, at three o’clock in the morning, we continued to ascend lofty downs of loose sand; our direction was northerly: the western side of these downs was covered with thorny plants, which served the camels for food. The poor animals moved with so much difficulty, that our progress was slow and painful; we advanced but a mile an hour.
Towards noon, having climbed to a great elevation, we found ourselves on an extensive plain of very hard grey sand: we halted near the wells of Amoul-Gragim; which, like the preceding, were filled up; these are only seven or eight feet deep; their water is muddy and salt, but less disagreeable to the taste than that of Trasas.
This night seemed cooler than those which had preceded it: my rest was disturbed by the appearance of a serpent, which suddenly awoke me, and had nearly reached my head when I perceived it. I rose in haste; the reptile was alarmed by the noise I made, and returned immediately to its hole, which was not far distant: this serpent was five feet and a half long, and as thick as the thigh of a boy twelve years old. The idea of so unpleasant a neighbour banished sleep for the remainder of the night: my travelling companions also experienced similar visits, and appeared no less dismayed by them than myself.
The whole of the 6th was employed in watering our camels; we procured for them stalks of hedysarum-alhagi, and branches of the tamarisk, which grows on the plain at some distance from the wells: these were quickly devoured. This night we lay down as on the preceding, and I was again annoyed with the sight of enormous serpents.