This verdure, embosomed among immense rocks of granite, on a spot where, as far as the eye can reach, no other trace of vegetation is perceptible, has something at the same time wild and pleasing, which produces an effect strikingly picturesque.
The water of the wells of el-Ekseif is very good; I found a real luxury in drinking it, for it was sweet, bright, and limpid.
Tired of eating nothing but boiled rice, I went to a Moor who treated me with better fare. I recounted to him my privations, in which he seemed to take some interest, exhorting me to bear my misfortunes with patience, and inviting me to partake of his supper, which consisted of rice, boiled with meat dried in the sun, and seasoned with allspice; the meat he had brought from Jenné, in which town he had lived several years occupied in commerce, I thought, by making him a little present, to obtain in return frequent invitations to his meals, and therefore gave him a piece of twenty sous, which he accepted; he considered himself however under no engagement in my favour, for he invited me no more.
On the 13th of June, we remained beside the wells to recover from our fatigues, and refresh ourselves with copious draughts of the delicious water. The soil on which we were encamped was dry, and full of stones, which we were obliged to clear away from the spot where the camels were to lie, lest they should be hurt. In the evening water was so abundant here that I was enabled to cool my body with a calabash of cold water, and I found great benefit from it.
On the 14th, we set out at five in the morning, still pursuing the same course. Descending into a plain where we found a little herbage, we halted about nine o’clock to allow the camels to graze. The road had been difficult and we had travelled about two miles an hour. At five in the evening, judging that the camels were satisfied, we continued our journey northwards, but had scarcely proceeded a mile when we were obliged to wait for part of our company, who had stayed behind; the ground which we were upon was composed of very hard grey sand, covered with fine white gravel. Towards eleven at night, the stragglers, whom their beasts had carried to a distance in pursuit of food, arrived, and we resumed our route, guided by the pole-star; we travelled all night and till eleven in the morning of the 15th.
On the 15th, we met with the same soil as the day before, without any vegetation. A strong north wind prevailed and greatly incommoded us. At half past five P. M., after drinking some dokhnou, we again entered upon the desert. Travelling northwards all night, we found the air unusually cold, but free from fog.
On the 16th of June, at sunrise, we saw a little chain of hills stretching from north to south; they appeared black, which made me presume that they were granite.
About ten in the morning, we rested at the foot of a chain of hills of loose sand, which ran in a parallel direction with the granite hills.
At two in the morning of the 17th, we broke up our camp, and proceeded northwards; having on either side of the road hills of very fine sand. The poor camels cropped as they went along the heads of some prickly plants, the only species of vegetable which they could find. About ten we halted at the wells called Marabouty, situated a quarter of a mile east of our route, amongst high hills of moving sand: these wells, which are no deeper than the last, were also filled up, but we soon opened them.
I eagerly pressed forward to ask for drink, for I had not been able to obtain any on the road: my thirst was intense, and augmented by a violent westerly wind, which drifted the sand and rendered the journey most fatiguing. The neighbourhood of the wells is covered with the excrements of camels, to such a degree, that if the Moors were not well acquainted with their situation, these traces would suffice to point them out: the water is very good.