On the 6th of July, the wife of Sidi-Aly, who till then, like the rest of the family had given me tokens of ill-will accosted me in a very affable tone, and requested a saphi for bad eyes; promising me that if I effected a cure, she would give me every thing I wished. To get quit of her I gave her one immediately, and she received it with gratitude. I refused her money, but accepted with pleasure a little milk which she offered me. After some days, the impatient Mariam (that was her name) seeing that my amulet did not operate, reproached me bitterly, saying that my skill was no greater than that of the priests. Knowing from her husband that I had some medicaments, she asked me for physic, which embarrassed me greatly, as I was fearful of increasing her complaint; it was necessary however to satisfy her, under penalty of being considered disobliging. Convinced that cleanliness was the best remedy I could prescribe, to force her to it, I diluted with a considerable quantity of water a small portion of sulphat of quinine, and desired her to wash her eyes with it; she insisted that I should perform this operation myself, unfortunately the water, penetrating to her eyes, made them smart a little: upon which she flew into a rage, loaded me with abuse, and in conclusion, cursed both the doctor and his medicines. From that time she gave me no more sangleh.
This incident did not destroy their confidence in my saphies, to the credit of which moreover old Aly had contributed by a falsehood; having asserted that when I left Timbuctoo my abdomen was much swelled, and that I wrote in a book, washed my writing in water, and drank this liquor, which cured me.
An old woman long tormented me to procure a husband for her daughter; she dragged me, at length, against my will into her tent, which belonged to a neighbouring camp, promising me a draught of cheni in recompense. Here I saw the object of her maternal solicitude; a girl about twenty years of age, repulsively ugly, clothed in rags, the filthiness of which could only be equalled by that of her person. Her left cheek was covered by a scar, and she had sore eyes. Her whole figure presented the most revolting appearance imaginable; and I perceived at a glance the cause of her mother’s anxiety to get her married by means of a charm. I felt that it was quite beyond my art to accomplish such a prodigy. To induce me however to exert all my skill, the old woman offered me a piece of dried meat, which she took out of a large leathern sack, where, from its state of putrefaction, it might have been deposited on the day that her amiable daughter was born. Notwithstanding the repugnance which I manifested, the mother insisted upon my acceptance of the delectable morsel, which she assured me was excellent; but such was my disgust that I even refused the cheni which she offered. I was anxious to withdraw, but could not effect my escape till I had written the amulet required; this done, I fled with all expedition, invoking for the maiden a man courageous enough to take her to wife.
I have never, in any country, seen women so dirty as those of el-Harib. This total want of cleanliness is no doubt the cause of the chronic ophthalmia, and other disorders, with which they and their equally filthy offspring are afflicted. My medical reputation drew upon me most unpleasant avocations: the mothers brought to me in crowds children in so disgusting a state that I could not look at them without horror; in vain did I avert my eyes, they only became more importunate, compelling me to examine the miserable beings for whom they solicited my aid. I could do no better for them than recommend cleanliness; but this simple remedy they despised, and would not be content with any thing short of the marvellous.
On the evening of the 6th, a troop of Berbers arrived in our camp demanding hospitality. Aly ordered for their supper a couscous of wheat flour, to which were added some pieces of meat dried in the sun. The food for me and the slaves was separately dressed; but Aly’s sister, who, since I had given her amulets for her nieces, had become much more attentive to me, gave me some of their meat concealed under the bad couscous of barley intended for me.
On the 8th of July, another troop of Berbers carried off several camels which were grazing at a distance. The whole camp took the alarm, and arming themselves with guns the men set off in haste, some on foot and others on horseback; but the thieves were already distant, and their pursuers returned without having overtaken them. The evening was spent in lamentations on the part of the owners of the camels, their relations, and friends. They had recourse to fortune-tellers to know if they should recover them, and came to consult me on the subject, requesting a charm to bring them back; this I refused, under pretence that my writings did not possess that virtue.
On the 11th of July, the Berbers who were to escort us to Tafilet arrived, and great was my joy to think that on the morrow I should quit a place where I had experienced so many mortifications. Aly had a sheep killed for the Berbers’ supper and gave me a little bit, with an apology on account of the many persons who were to partake of it.
On the 12th, at five o’clock in the morning, our preparations were made for departure; but before quitting this country I shall give a description of it.
The territory of el-Harib, two days’ journey west of that of el-Drah, and one to the east of the tribe of the Trajacants, is situated between two chains of mountains, which extend from east to west, and separate it towards the north from the empire of Morocco, to which it is tributary. The inhabitants are divided into several roving tribes. Their principal wealth consists in the great quantity of camels which they breed, and which in the wet season produce abundance of milk for their sustenance. All the Moors of el-Harib travel in the Soudan; they go to Timbuctoo, el-Arawan, and Sansanding; the merchants of Tafilet, el-Drah, and Soueyrah, give them loads for their camels; on their own account they carry only wheat and dates, and these in small ventures. When in the Soudan they remain there several months, for the purpose of traffic; making little journeys to Toudeyni, where they purchase mineral salt, which they sell again to the principal merchants in the two chief entrepôts, receiving in exchange grain, the stuffs of the Soudan, and gold. Having spent nine or ten months in this traffic, they take a load for Tafilet or some other city, and afterwards return into their own country and to their family, bringing with them gold only and some slaves, whom they sell in Morocco.
On returning to their own country, they are obliged to pay a small tribute to a chief called the sheikh. The goods brought by the Moors from the Soudan to el-Harib are transported to Tafilet or other places by the Berbers alone, or under escorts which they furnish at a price agreed upon; without which precaution the merchants would certainly be robbed or murdered on the road.