I then returned to the fandac, leaving with the consular agent ten shillings, which he refused to change; he gave me however on account, three dragmes (twenty four sous) for the supply of my most urgent wants during the following days. I made my guide purchase a piece of roasted mutton and two small loaves, which I divided with him; resolving however that this should be my last repast in his company: not that he had been deficient in complaisance to me, but, convinced that I must be extremely desirous of an interview with the sultan his master, he was perpetually endeavouring to pursuade me to solicit one. I had exhausted all my pretences for delaying this step; and had sufficient reason to beware of presenting myself before the African monarch, who, more suspicious than his subjects, would in all probability have proved more clear-sighted.
I quitted the fandac therefore, and passed the day at the corner of a street; where I hoped to spend the night with equal tranquillity, and lying down enveloped myself in my large wrapper. I was invoking sleep, the friend of the unfortunate, when a dozen dogs began to bark furiously at me, and I should certainly have fallen a prey to these animals, had I not been promptly assisted by one of those men, who are posted in the streets at night expressly to rescue passengers from their attacks. This man inquired who I was; “I am an Arab, a stranger here,” replied I, “on my return to Alexandria my native country.” Upon this he placed me in a small recess near which he slept himself; arming me with a strong bamboo cane to drive away the dogs, if they should trouble me again; a very judicious precaution, for these creatures, apparently conscious that I was a stranger, never ceased throughout the night annoying me with their menacing cries. I would gladly have slept at a fandac, but for the expense of three paras per night, and the risk of insults from the muleteers. Consulting my poverty, and uncertain when I should be able to obtain assistance from the French Consul, I determined to be as saving as possible and to sleep under the canopy of heaven. Henceforth, I sought repose in a cemetery, situated to the west of the town on the sea-shore, where, peacefully extended at the foot of a mausoleum, I was neither tormented by men nor dogs. During the day I remained at the corners of the streets, sometimes repairing to the mosques to take my melancholy meals, consisting of a little bread and a bunch of grapes, to which I occasionally ventured to add from my scanty resources a small piece of fried fish. As the wells of Rabat are brackish, I was obliged to beg water from the Moors who seldom refused me. Such was the kind of life which I led, during the whole of my residence at Rabat, while waiting for an opportunity to proceed to Tangier to the French Consul. I now and then saw Ismael, the Jew agent of the consulate, who gave me some small coins of the country, on the security of the ten shillings with which I had entrusted him. One day, finding him at home at breakfast, I was invited to sit upon the floor and partake of his tea. I entreated him to procure for me some means of travelling to Tangier; promising to reimburse him as soon as I should reach the consul; but the Jew, fearing no doubt that this would be disapproved by his superior, drily refused. Seeing that nothing was to be gained from this man, not even permission to embark on board a Portuguese brig, bound for Gibraltar, I was about to write to M. Sourdeau, Consul-general at Morocco, when Ismael received a letter from Tangier informing him of this gentleman’s death; I therefore addressed myself to the Vice-Consul M. Delaporte, on whom the direction of the consulate had devolved; but an opportunity of going to Tangier occurring during the interval, while I awaited his answer, I hired an ass to carry me thither, for my legs would no longer support me.
On the 2nd of September, I quitted Rabat with the owner my ass, the most worthless man I had met with in this country. The poor beast destined to carry me, was already oppressed by a heavy burthen, and sunk at every step up to his knees in the loose sand of the sea-shore; I had therefore no alternative but to dismount, and though I had paid a good price for my conveyance, and was scarcely able to drag myself along, was obliged to perform half the journey on foot, while my unworthy guide rode forward with the utmost indifference. On reaching the place appointed for the halt, I threw myself down under a tree, and wrapped up in my old blanket, suffered there a violent attack of fever, produced by fatigue and exhaustion. Towards seven in the evening, my guide brought me a handful of couscous, which had been given him by some Arabs near whom we had encamped.
At Larache I saw two vessels cruising, and little thought that one of them would shortly bear me from this frightful country. I ascended with difficulty the hills in the vicinity of Tangier, and at length, ill, and worn out with fatigue, I arrived in that town on the 7th of September, at nightfall.
As I entered on foot the centinel took no notice of me, and I thus fortunately escaped an explanation with the governor of the town, which might have thrown some obstacles in the way of my departure, or even have involved me in destruction. I deposited my bag at the fandac, and the same evening explored the town in search of the French Consulate. I saw many flag-staves, but could not for the darkness distinguish that of my own nation. The moment was most critical. I dared not to address myself to a Musulman, who would infallibly have asked what concern I had with the christians: and if my intentions had been discovered I should have lost all hope of restoration to my country. I lay at the fandac, and passed the night in extreme agitation. In the morning I again repaired to the street where I had seen the flags, and perceived an open door, near which stood a christian; looking carefully round, to ascertain that I was not observed, I accosted him in English, inquiring for the residence of the British Consul. “This is it,” replied he; but, fearful of attracting notice, by conversing too long outside the door, I would have entered the house, to ask a direction to the French Consulate; but this man, who I supposed was a domestic, repulsed me with horror, on account of my dirty and disfigured appearance. I inquired for the residence of the French Consul, and he bluntly answered, “He is dead,” but at the same time called a Jew, who directed me to the door of the Vice-Consul, and with an air of curiosity, asked who I was, and what I wanted with a Christian; I retreated without answering, trembling with the dread of detection. When all whose observation I had excited had passed on, I returned to the Vice-Consul’s door, which, being opened, I entered the house: a Jewess called M. Delaporte who received me with the greatest kindness, and conducted me up stairs to an apartment where I was entirely concealed from view. I comprehended the full extent of the danger which surrounded me, from the fear which M. Delaporte expressed of the difficulties which must embarrass my departure from this country; but, speedily laying aside any uneasiness relative to my present situation, he gave free vent to the joy with which my almost miraculous escape from the dangers of so arduous a journey inspired him, and in his transports even embraced me, pressing me closely to his arms, notwithstanding the dirty rags in which I was clad: I cannot indeed speak too warmly of the benevolent reception which I experienced from this generous man. After enjoying a breakfast from his hospitality I found myself, with great regret, obliged to depart, though we had not yet determined on any means for rescuing me from my present embarrassing situation. No sooner had I set foot in the street than I most inconveniently encountered my muleteer, who, seeing me come out of a house, inquired where I had been; at first I felt a little confused, but quickly recovering I told him that a charitable priest had given me a breakfast in that house. I returned to the fandac, and did not leave it again that day, apprehensive of exciting attention, as those by whom I had been seen had inquired whether I was a renegado.
I passed the night in contriving means to obtain another interview with the Vice-Consul In the morning the master of the fandac came to demand three felusses for my night’s lodging in his stable, and then, pushing me by the shoulders, sent me to return thanks to God and the Prophet.
At nightfall I again presented myself at M. Delaporte’s house: as I was entering, the female servant, not recognizing me, ran back uttering a loud cry; this brought from the street the Vice-Consul’s guard who, precipitately entering the house, put his hand upon my shoulder, and demanded who I was, and what I wanted. I was completely disconcerted,. M. Delaporte, being brought down by the noise, knew me, but affected great anger, and spoke very harshly to prevent suspicion. “Turn out this dog of a beggar,” said he, “what can he want here? begone!” The soldier still asking what I wanted, I examined the house as though in doubt; and saying, “What! does not Sidi-Mohammed reside here? I fear I have made a mistake,” I retired; the soldier following me a short distance, but by favour of the night I easily escaped him. On my return to the fandac I threw myself upon the ground, to recover from the emotion which this untoward accident had occasioned. After an hour’s repose, I again repaired to the street where M. Delaporte resided, hoping that he would send some one to me with a message of encouragement; but I saw no one. I passed another agitated night, sleeping little; and at day-break took my station in front of the Vice-Consul’s house to seek a decisive interview with him, the suspense in which I continued having become insupportable. I seated myself at the door of a poor shoemaker, to watch the moment when I might enter the house without observation. The Jewish maid servant, who had been so unfortunately alarmed the preceding evening, recognized me: and, having given notice to M. Delaporte, made me a sign to come in. The Vice-Consul obligingly expressed his regret for the unpleasant scene of the preceding evening; he did not dissemble his apprehensions for me, in case I continued long in my present situation, but could devise no means for my escape; I was still more perplexed, as without his assistance I should find it impossible to quit the country. Seeing me resolved to extricate myself as speedily as possible from this state of distress and anxiety, M. Delaporte fixed an hour of the night for my return to the consulate, to quit it no more till I should be enabled to embark for Europe. I spent the remainder of the day at the fandac, and that my sudden disappearance might occasion no surprise amongst its inmates, I apprised them that I intended to proceed to Taone on my route to Algiers. When it was quite dark, I rolled my bag in my wrapper to screen it from observation, and repaired to the appointed spot, where I immediately saw M. Delaporte and a Jew, who came to conduct me to my destined asylum. I was admitted to the Consular residence by a back door, and led to a good chamber, where M. Delaporte presently sent me a European dress, for which I gladly exchanged the dirty rags I had so long worn: he then visited me in my new apartment, and expressed the greatest satisfaction at seeing me in a place of safety.
After returning thanks to Almighty God, I lay down upon a good bed, rejoicing in my escape from the society of men debased by ignorance and fanaticism. Though all my wants were relieved, I found it impossible to close my eyes the whole night, so much was I agitated by the remembrance of the perils I had passed through. During my whole residence at the Consulate, M. Delaporte came many times each day to see and converse with me; he treated me as his own son, and indeed lavished on me all the cares of the tenderest father.
It would be difficult to describe my sensations on casting off for ever my Arab costume; I retraced in my memory all the privations and fatigues I had endured, and the length of route I had traversed in a wild country, amidst a thousand dangers. I blessed God for my arrival in port; but I believed myself in a dream, and asked if it was indeed true that I might soon be restored to my country, or whether this enchanting hope was but a delusion.
M. Delaporte neglected nothing that could contribute to the re-establishment of my impaired health, and the wholesome nourishment he gave me effected a decided improvement; but I was still frequently attacked by paroxysms of fever which kept me in a state of extreme weakness. During my abode in the consulate I was occupied in arranging my notes.