On examining the general map of M. Caillié’s travels Baleya, Bourré, Amana, Sego, Sansanding and Djenné, names very little differing from the former, will actually be found, in a line, not indeed perfectly direct, from Labé to Timbuctoo. With regard to the four months’ distance, it is worthy of remark that M. Caillié was a hundred and seven days proceeding from Teleouel (nearly opposite to Labé) to Timbuctoo, following a rather more easterly course. In several other particulars the narratives of the two English travellers are in accordance with the observations of M. Caillié, such as the traffic in salt, and its being carried on men’s shoulders, the position of Labé and Timbo with respect to Kakondy,[34] the state of agriculture, and the manners of the Foulahs.
The first journey of Mungo Park, in 1795, conducted him to Sego on the Dhioliba, and thence to Silla: these two places were left to the west of M. Caillié’s route, as may be seen on the general map. The only doubtful question respecting the line between them arises from the considerable difference that exists as to the distance of that line from the ocean: but this question is very comprehensive, and embraces too many different points to be examined here. It may, however, be observed that the population assigned by Mr. Park to Sego (thirty thousand) appears somewhat large as compared with that of Jenné, Timbuctoo, and other towns visited by M. Caillié.
In his second journey, in 1805, Mungo Park reached the river at Bamakou; at Sansanding he embarked upon it, in a canoe constructed under his direction, and followed it to Cabra, Houssa, and Boussa. Thus, from the branch which runs into it below Jenné to Cabra, the two travellers followed the same route, and navigated the same stream. Unfortunately Park’s narrative breaks off at Sansanding, on the 10th of November, at the moment of his leaving that town. There is however, a last piece of authentic information on the 19th of November; this is a note addressed by Mungo Park to his wife. It is known that the bark which he contrived for descending the river was a sort of raft or flat boat, formed of two old canoes.
It cannot easily be credited that the traveller advanced upon the river at the rate of six or seven miles an hour as his journal indicates: it has been seen that the direct progress of M. Caillié on the Dhioliba was scarcely more than two miles an hour; in a different season it is true, and at low water. Mungo Park, according to his guide, perished at Boussa, four months after his departure from Sansanding, which account, unless erroneous would infer a stay either at Timbuctoo, Houssa, or Yaour.[35] It is not possible here to institute any comparison between the two narratives, and I think it superfluous to seek other points of resemblance; I confine myself therefore to the observation, that the map of Park’s second journey aggravates the error committed in the first map, in placing the course of the Dhioliba too far eastward of the city of Timbuctoo.[36] It is not consistent with my subject to enter into further particulars concerning that unfortunate expedition, with the commencement and issue of which every one is acquainted; but of the most essential points of which all are equally ignorant, namely the navigation of the river above and below Timbuctoo, and all those observations that were undoubtedly made and written by the celebrated traveller on papers, that there is yet some hope of discovering.
Chronological order obliges me to pass from such a man as Mungo Park to the American sailor Robert Adams.[37] Notwithstanding the efforts of M. Dupuis, editor of Adams’s narrative, and the real merit of the notes appended to it by that learned writer, the general opinion of geographers is opposed to the authenticity of these travels; and it is a remarkable fact, that it is least credited in his own country. Critical observations on this subject have appeared in the North American Review, from which we are compelled to conclude that the original declaration made at Cadiz by Adams before the American consul, totally differs from his recital, made in London, to M. Dupuis. I am far from believing in the reality of Adams’s travels in all their circumstances as described; but a comparison of them with those of M. Caillié belongs to my subject. Robert Adams was wrecked on the coast of Cape Blanco, and was carried to Timbuctoo, where he says he remained five months.[38] He afterwards returned through Toudeyni, Oulad-Deleym, el-Thabla, Ouad-Noun, Mogador, Fez, Mequinaz, and Tangier. Even in his description of Timbuctoo, a striking contradiction occurs. “The city,” he says, “is in a very level plain;” and yet two miles beyond the city, runs the river Marzarah, between two rather high mountains. This river flows to the south west, and is three quarters of a mile wide. He repeats elsewhere that there are mountains to the south of Timbuctoo, and says that sulphur is found there. None of these circumstances have been noticed by M. Caillié, who walked from Cabra to Timbuctoo, and who in thirteen days had abundant leisure to observe them. The city appeared to Adams as extensive, without being as populous, as Lisbon; but between two hundred and sixty thousand inhabitants and ten or twelve thousand there is a great difference. There are no mosques, says he, in Timbuctoo; M. Caillié saw three large and several smaller ones.[39]
Adams asserts that he saw a palace built of clay mixed with herbage, and other houses of wood or earth: the greater part of the houses, according to M. Caillié are of brick, and the king’s palace[40] is nothing more than a small and extremely simple house.
Adams asserts that the men are tattooed; M. Caillié says nothing of the existence of such a custom at Timbuctoo: that there is not a man capable of writing; the new account frequently affirms the contrary: that many elephants are to be seen there; M. Caillié scarcely saw traces of one during the whole course of his travels. Nevertheless these differences which may be partly attributed to his ignorance, as well as to a want of memory, are not sufficient motives for absolutely denying the journey of Adams, or rejecting all the information which he procured. The same may be said of the words of the language spoken at Timbuctoo, which Robert Adams has given to the number of sixteen, eight of which are common to the Kissour vocabulary of M. Caillié,[41] but totally differing from them.
Was it easy, in a country where so many different languages and dialects are spoken, to ascertain the genuine words of the Timbuctoo idiom? The words published by well informed travellers, such as Lyon, Bowdich and others, do not agree better with those collected by M. Caillié. If Adams really visited Timbuctoo, it is possible that he may have interrogated strangers instead of natives.[42] Major Denham alone till the present day has learnt the true words of this language. Other features again of Adams’s descriptions are confirmed by certain Arabian travellers and geographers, even what he says of the river flowing in the neighbourhood of Timbuctoo. Yet, supposing him to have seen the river, which is to the south, may he not have been mistaken as to the direction of the stream? May it not be the second branch of the river, which M. Caillié saw at Cabra, and which at first runs towards the north-east? It does not however run two miles south of Timbuctoo, but five miles. The river, he says, is called Marzarah: and this name though unknown to M. Caillié, yet exists; and is the name also of a district cited above, after el-Edricy.[43]
Robert Adams is not incorrect in his journeys beyond Timbuctoo: 1st from this city towards the E. N. E., as far as the river mentioned above, where he arrives after ten days’ journey; 2ndly from this point to Toudeyni, twelve or thirteen days’ journey N. N. W. These distances and bearings agree tolerably well with M. Caillié’s route from Timbuctoo to Telig.
Riley, the American, also wrecked on the west coast of Africa, and detained in slavery by the Moorish Chief Sidi-Hamet, gathered from the latter some correct notions relating to the city of Timbuctoo. According to him a small river (it was then dry) runs near the walls of Timbuctoo, and a large river flows to the east at an hour’s distance on horseback. This is undoubtedly the same with that of which he elsewhere speaks as the Zolibib, which is two hours’ march to the south. The city is five times as large as Soueyrah, situated in a vast plain, and built of stone, earth, and reeds. On leaving Timbuctoo, Sidi-Hamet travelled fifty-five days towards the N. E., and eighteen to the north, before he arrived at Touat, and afterwards he proceeded to Fez. M. Caillié did not perceive the little river close under the walls of Timbuctoo; but what is said by Riley shews that it might be dried up. The great river at two hours’ distance to the south, is evidently the Cabra branch, flowing between the east and north. The word Zolibib is unquestionably the same as Dhioliba. The situation of the oasis of Agably (or of Touat), is not consistent with the data by which I was guided in drawing up the general map, namely the astronomical observations made by Major Laing at Ain-salah.[44]