Though better than the other negroes, their neighbours, they are not exempt from superstition: the scarcity of stones in the neighbourhood has given rise to a fable which, being generally believed, may long contribute to the security of the country. There is one, about a quarter of a mile E. ¼ S.E. from the village. The absurd stories which I heard concerning this stone made me desirous to see it. It is by the road side, about eighteen inches in length and eight broad, the top of it projecting about four inches above the surface of the ground: in colour it is ferruginous and it has a volcanic appearance: I would have broken off a piece, but the negro who accompanied me prevented it. According to an ancient custom, all the inhabitants, when they pass this stone, draw a thread from their pagne, which they throw upon it, as a sort of offering which they make to it.
The marabouts assert and firmly believe, that when the village is threatened with any danger, for instance, pillage, this stone moves thrice round it in the preceding night, by way of warning; and all the warriors arm themselves in consequence. The two following tales are related by them in proof of the virtue of their stone. The Moors, joined by the people of Wâlo, advanced to the vicinity of N’pâl with the intention of plundering the place. This was in the dry season. The stone, after making the circuit of the village in the night, caused it to rain so vehemently, and blue flames to issue from the ground in such great quantity, that the Moors, struck with terror, betook themselves to flight: the inhabitants pursued and made a dreadful slaughter among them, and took prisoners a great number of Wâlo blacks, who were sold as slaves and carried to the colonies.
On another occasion, they were attacked by two Moorish kings, who carried off some of the inhabitants into slavery. These two kings, they say, were taken suddenly ill and died by the way: they did not fail to attribute their death to the power of the stone; the slaves were nevertheless carried away and have never returned. In short, the veneration excited by this stone has always been so great, that only ten years ago it was the object of a sort of religious worship. A festival was held and all the inhabitants were obliged to attend it: in the evening, calebashes full of nicely prepared couscous were placed near the stone, and as it was always eaten by the animals, the people believed that a spirit dwelt in the stone, and considered the acceptance of the offering as a happy omen. The greatest part of the day was spent in prayer; after which, on a signal given by the chief marabouts, all present ran away. If any one, in running, happened to fall, the accident was always regarded as an indication of his speedy death.
As I have already observed, the plain through which runs the road from N’ghiez to N’pâl is not cultivated, though the soil is capable of being rendered very productive. The woods consist principally of mimosas; and the various species of grasses which cover the ground attract thither abundance of all sorts of game. The soil in the environs of N’pâl is of two kinds: you meet with hollows in which the rain water settles, and this renders them far superior to the rest of the plain: they are composed of black sand, enriched by the mud which the water deposits, and by the remains of the vegetables which rot in it: these are the most productive spots. The rest of the land, though of inferior quality, is very fertile; it contains fields of considerable extent, cultivated with the greatest care; each marabout has his own, which he tills himself with his slaves. The inhabitants grow abundance of millet, cotton, water-melons, and a sort of beans, of which they consume a great quantity. They have herds of horned cattle, sheep, and goats: they rear great numbers of poultry, wild and tame ducks, Guinea fowl, and several kinds of game, the young of which they pick up in the fields.
The water which they drink is bad: they collect it in ponds during the rainy season, for the wells are at a great distance from the village, and even these furnish water that is by no means agreeable: I meant to go to see them, but a violent storm prevented my making this excursion.
On the 6th I purposed to set out, but it was Tabasky day, and I could not procure a guide. One offered himself for the following day, when I was seized with a fever, which confined me to my bed, and had such pains in all my limbs that I was unable to move. In the rainy season all the negroes are liable to this disorder, for which, however, they employ no remedy.
At length, on the 9th I was about to depart, when I was told that my guide was a thief, and that he would certainly rob me, or arrange with some accomplice to do it. As it was impossible for me to procure another, I deferred my departure till the following day.
On the 10th I availed myself of the opportunity of some persons going to their fields on the frontiers of Wâlo, who promised to put me into the right track. We proceeded N.E. ¼ N. for three miles; there they pointed out the route which I was to pursue, and then went to their work. I stopped for a moment, and then travelled on alone in a north-east direction toward Wâlo. About noon I arrived much fatigued at Sokhogne, a village in the Wâlo country; the route which I had followed was covered with wood. The environs of this village are not cultivated.
After resting myself under a tamarind-tree, I bought some milk and couscous. I went to see the chief of the village, who offered to conduct me to Merina, whither he was going, to ascertain the truth of certain rumours which were circulated, respecting a war between his country and the Peulhs.[8] I accompanied him, in spite of the fever which had not left me, and we arrived there at three in the afternoon. This village is about eighteen miles N.E. from N’pâl. We had still to travel through woods. I was extremely fatigued, and lay down in the shade of a hut into which I had been refused admission. The man, who had acted in the capacity of guide, came and informed me that two men would set out the same evening for Mall, and he advised me to seize this opportunity. He asked me if I could walk well at night, adding that it was as far from that place to Mall as it was from N’pâl to Merina; and he assured me that on the following day I should not meet with a guide. I determined therefore to accompany those whom chance offered me: I arranged with one of them to carry my baggage; he agreed to do so for two quires of paper and four heads or three leaves of tobacco; at sun-set we started.
The direction we pursued was N.E. ¼ E. One of my guides was on horseback; we walked at a good pace. Travelling in the dark was very unpleasant; I ran so many thorns into my feet that I was unable to proceed, and I offered the negro who had the horse the same price to let me ride as I paid for carrying my baggage: the negro accepted it and made me get up behind. I found this position so inconvenient that I was as tired as if I had walked; my feet, however, became no worse.