On our way we joined many Foulahs loaded with salt, who were going to Fouta; we afterwards met others carrying leather, wax, and rice; they were going to Kakondy to buy salt. I was very much surprised to see these poor Foulahs and Mandingoes, who were carrying nearly a hundred weight on their heads, walk with the greatest rapidity, and climb the Irnanké mountains with the utmost agility. They carry a staff in their hands to assist them in supporting their burden, which is packed in a long basket made of thin and flexible pieces of wood; this basket is about three feet long, and one foot wide and deep. When the goods are stowed in it, the lid is put down, and the whole tightly secured with cords made of the bark of trees. If the bearers are weary, they rest one end of the basket upon the branch of a tree, and support the other with their staff; thus loaded, they travel to the Kankan to sell their salt. We seated ourselves under the shades of a superb bombax to take our slender repast, consisting of boiled rice, and pistachio-nuts parched and pounded, to which they added a little palm-oil. The six free Mandingoes and I placed ourselves round the calabash containing our dinner, and each in turn took a handful of rice; the slaves and my porter ate together, and the women dined alone.
When they halt, as well as on the road, the women have all the labour; the husband lies down on dry leaves or straw, which his slaves carry for his accommodation. After this frugal repast, I lay down too for a few moments. Several of the Foulahs, who had joined us on our road, gave me some of the fruit of the nédé, which is very common in this part of Africa, and very useful to travellers; it has a great deal of nourishment in it, and helps to save the rice which is destined for the purchase of salt.
About half-past two we were again on our way, proceeding to the S.E. over the same kind of soil as in the morning. After travelling about seven miles in this direction, we arrived near a deep ravine, where we halted to pass the night. One of the slaves went to fetch water, and our cook fell to work.
The Foulahs, who had been told that I was an Arab, shewed a sort of veneration for me, and were never weary of looking at me and pitying me: their extreme devotion renders them very charitable: they came and sat by me, taking my legs upon their knees and rubbing them to relieve my fatigue. “Thou must suffer sadly,” said they, “because thou art not used to such a toilsome journey.” One of them went and fetched some leaves to make me a bed. “Here!” said he, “this is for thee; for thou canst not sleep upon the stones, as we do.” Lying upon my bed of leaves, I felt as happy and as much at my ease as if I had been in my own apartment.
The sky was serene. The heat of the day had been succeeded by a refreshing breeze, and every thing was exceedingly pleasant.
Several Foulahs gave me a little rice, and I was the more grateful for it as this was all they had to give. The Mandingoes too were exceedingly kind and attentive to me, and endeavoured to anticipate all my wishes.
Prudence required me to retire to the woods to write and arrange my notes. I observed this precaution throughout the whole of my journey; for every observation that dropped from those by whom I was surrounded convinced me how dangerous it would be to rouse their suspicion.
My guide, Ibrahim, though of a touchy disposition, was, upon the whole very kind to me. He conducted me in safety through the Fouta, notwithstanding his repeated threats to take me back to Timbo, where he knew that the almamy would have me arrested.
At five in the morning of the 20th of April, we resumed our journey, directing our course eastward. We passed near a charming rivulet, which ran in a southerly direction, between two hills, over a bed of rocks. After proceeding nine miles we halted, about eleven o’clock, on the banks of the Tankilita, a rivulet which my companions gave out to be the Rio Nuñez.
About half past one in the afternoon, we set out and travelled E.N.E. We passed near the little village of Oréous, which is inhabited by Foulahs, who rear a considerable number of sheep. This village is situated on the slope of a high mountain, which is covered with beautiful vegetation. We proceeded eastward seven miles, over a stony mountainous tract of country, interspersed with large trees. The nédé and the bombax grow here abundantly. At sun-set we halted at the foot of a stony hillock, where there is a very deep ravine, on the margin of which are some extremely agreeable spots: there we passed the night. My companions again made me a bed of leaves; but I declined the accommodation, being fearful of the ill effects of the coolness and damp, proceeding from this couch of verdure after the excessive heat of the day. I therefore preferred lying on the stones, enveloped in my wrapper.