It was not long before we had to regret the generous hospitality of the Yolofs. On quitting their country we entered a desert, where, for five days’ journey, we were exposed to a thousand hardships. I hope to be forgiven for entering into these details, the only ones which could have fixed themselves in the memory of a mere youth, travelling rather in quest of adventures than for the purpose of making observations.
Our camels were so laden with goods, that we had been able to take with us but a very small quantity of water: it was soon found necessary to deal out but a very small portion to each person: mine was not more abundant. How could I complain—I, a useless consumer, attached to the expedition through the mere condescension of the leader! I had no right to find fault, but I suffered extremely from thirst. I was sometimes reduced to extremity; for, having no beast to ride upon, I was obliged to follow on foot. I have been since told that my eyes were hollow, that I panted for breath, and that my tongue hung out of my mouth: for my own part, I recollect that at every halt, I fell to the ground from weakness, and had not even the courage to eat. At length my sufferings excited the pity of all; and M. Partarrieu had the kindness to divide with me his portion of water as well as a fruit which he had found. This fruit resembles the potatoe; its pulp is white and of an agreeable flavour: we subsequently found many such, which were of great service to us.
A sailor, having in vain tried all means to allay his thirst, and set about seeking fruits, was deceived by the resemblance borne by one to that which M. Partarrieu had given to me. He ate it, and it set his mouth on fire as if it had been pimento: from the retching and the violent pains with which he was seized we concluded that he was poisoned; every one cheerfully gave up to him some of his allowance of drink; but he appeared to be relieved so suddenly that I have since thought his illness was only a feint to excite pity and get a little more water. I was not, however the worst off, for I saw several drink their urine.
We arrived at length at Boulibaba, a village inhabited by pastoral Foulahs, who live during part of the year in the woods and subsist entirely upon milk seasoned with the fruit of the baobab. To us Boulibaba was a paradise; we there found limpid and abundant springs: the water which we eagerly drank seemed to us excellent, but we had to pay a high price for it, the Foulahs to whom it belonged being poor and very selfish. We encamped near the village, the straw houses of which are in the form of a sugar-loaf truncated at top: the door is so low that, in order to enter, the inhabitants are obliged to crawl on all fours.
No sooner was our arrival known than the whole village sallied forth to look at us: a Foulah came to the foot of the tree where I was resting and asked me in the Wolof, which I understood, for a grigri[2] to confer riches. I wrote one for him, and out of gratitude he gave me a bowl of milk. I was nevertheless his dupe, for scarcely was he gone when I perceived that he had stolen my black silk cravat.
On quitting Boulibaba we had another desert without water to traverse: before we entered it, we thought it advisable to recruit ourselves from the fatigues which we had undergone and to sojourn some days with the Foulah herdsmen. A stock of water was procured: guides were hired, and we set out.
After we had made half a day’s journey we arrived at Paillar, where we laid in a fresh store of water. It would not have been prudent to traverse Fouta-Toro, the inhabitants of which are thieves and fanatics: we avoided it by turning a little to the south. The precautions which we had taken to obviate the want of water cheered our minds. The country in general appeared to us to be fine: we beheld with admiration trees of great height, with umbrageous foliage, covered with birds of various kinds, which by their song enlivened these solitudes. It was no doubt the agreeable sensations produced by this scenery that caused us partly to forget our fatigues, though we travelled from sunrise till near ten o’clock at night, taking but a few moments’ rest during the day. On the fifth day, however, we were all exhausted: we suffered from thirst, and our water was nearly spent. European ingenuity came to our succour: peppermint-drops were distributed among us, and we experienced immediate relief. Our camels suffered severely for want of water and forage, having no other food than young branches of trees, cut off here and there.
At length we reached a hamlet where the negroes readily brought us some calebashes of water, but they were not prodigal of it, and this was prudent, considering the number of men and animals to be supplied: for my part, I received no more than about a large glassful. But no sooner did we begin to drink than swarms of bees settled upon the vessels containing the water, and even upon our lips, disputing it with us; and to this horrid punishment, these grievous pangs, we had been several times exposed during the journey. I have frequently seen the water-skins covered with bees, which we had no means of driving away but by burning green wood, the smoke of which forced them to quit.
At length we entered Bondou. M. Partarrieu, who was extremely afraid of falling in with the almamy, wished to avoid Boulibaneh, his usual residence, and to reach Bakel speedily and by the direct route; but the inhabitants of Potako, the second village we came to, manifested a disposition to oppose this design. It was therefore necessary to encamp for the purpose of holding a palaver.[3] This palaver still continued; we were near wells, but were not supplied either with water or provisions; no millet was brought, and a war of famine was commenced. This system of attack upon us was the worst and the most dangerous of all: it behoved us to meet it with firmness and resolution. M. Partarrieu, who was not deficient in these qualities, was preparing to pursue his route directly towards Bakel, and we were on the point of starting, when Major Gray, the commander of the expedition, who came to meet us, appeared on horseback, and directed us to go to Boulibaneh, under the idea that the almamy would keep his word, and that, after he had received our goods he would suffer us to pass. Major Gray was rather credulous. For the rest, the inhabitants, as soon as they saw us change our route, readily permitted us to draw water and brought us abundance of provisions of all kinds. Peace being concluded and both parties on good terms, traffic commenced.
The day after the arrival of Major Gray we received orders to set out and to take the road to Boulibaneh: we could do no other than obey; but, that the inhabitants of that capital might not remark the great quantity of goods which we brought with us, we entered the place at night. I was in the rear-guard, with some English soldiers mounted on asses: these poor fellows were exhausted with fatigue: never had they made so arduous a campaign; they proposed to stay behind: I prevented them from so doing and we at length rejoined, though rather late, the head of the caravan, which we found asleep in the camp that it had formed outside the town. This camp was nothing more than a cluster of straw huts, surrounded by a palisade four feet high, formed of trunks of trees interlaced with branches.