At six o’clock in the morning of the 1st of May, we left the village of Gnéré-temilé, the population of which is about two hundred and fifty. The rain of the preceding evening purified the atmosphere and added new charms to the surrounding scenery. We journeyed on cheerfully to E.S.E. I saw an ourondé, or slave village, surrounded by good plantations of bananas, cotton, cassavas, and yams. We passed Maraca, after which we found ourselves in a sandy plain, containing several small slave villages, and sat down beneath a tree to wait for some of our party, who were lingering behind.
The negroes of the village of Bourwel brought us some delicious oranges: after eating them we pursued our journey along the side of a deep valley adorned with large trees. Having descended a rapid slope, we came to very fertile land. About two in the afternoon we halted at Popoco, situated in the plain, having travelled eight miles since morning.
CHAPTER VII.
Popoco. — Granite mountains. — We cross the Bâ-fing (the principal tributary of the Senegal) near its source. — Great cataract. — Fouta-Dhialon. — Langoué. — Couroufi. — Schools. — Albinos. — Industry of the inhabitants. — The traveller obliged to turn physician.
The 2nd of May was employed in procuring carriers for our luggage, as those who had come with us from Kakondy would not proceed any further. About three in the afternoon some of our fellow-travellers left us, and amongst the number was my young interpreter. I confessed that I was sorry to part with him, for his conversation sometimes helped to while away the weariness of the journey. He talked of his country, to which he appeared fondly attached. He was sorry, he said, to see it desolated by the civil war which had existed since it had had two sovereigns, each supported by a formidable party. I shall treat of this subject more at length hereafter.
We escorted our companions out of the village. As we could not procure porters, we were obliged to stay there the whole of the 3rd of May. The inhabitants, having learned who I was from my guide, Ibrahim, thronged to see me, and our hut was all day full of visiters. They overwhelmed me with troublesome questions, and some of them made me little presents. I sent to buy some cassava with glass beads; but the people who sold it would not take payment. The news of the arrival of an Arab, a countryman of the prophet’s, spread through all the neighbouring villages. I was visited by several great marabouts, or priests, who in that country receive the name of Tierno. The chief of Tiéléri, a village two miles north of Popoco, sent me a present of some milk, and a colat-nut, a mark of very high respect. The women in this country have an unusual share of curiosity. They came to see me, and gave me cassava. Some of them knelt down when they presented it to me.
Popoco is situated in a fertile plain. The soil is a kind of black sand. The village is large, containing between one hundred and fifty and two hundred slaves, who are employed in agriculture. I saw cassava, yams, and pistachios, thriving well. The inhabitants also grow a considerable quantity of rice and millet. At a little distance from the village there are some orange-trees.
I learned here that the Fouta-Dhialon had been divided by two parties since the death of the almamy Gadry, whose reign had been tranquil. Tierno-Boubacar, and Tierno-Yayaye, each claimed the right of succeeding him, and they were at war. Yayaye, whose party was at first the stronger, withdrew for some time to wage war against the infidels. This hazardous expedition proved very unfortunate for him, as it afforded his adversary time to ingratiate himself with the people. When Yayaye returned from his expedition, in which he sustained some loss, circular letters were distributed throughout the country, proclaiming the elevation of Boubacar to the dignity of chief of the state. Yayaye retired, but without renouncing his pretensions, and still retaining a very formidable party.
Damasisya is situated to the north. We proceeded four miles E.S.E. over a gravelly soil, and at two in the afternoon halted at Dité, where we changed our carriers. I met with a very kind reception in this little village, where I found a negro who had seen me at Kakondy; he eagerly related to the inhabitants the story which I had invented, and which produced a good effect, and was of great advantage to me. Timbo, the capital of the Fouta, is two days’ journey S.E. ¼ S. of this village, which is surrounded by a quick-set hedge.