The situation became painful; he feared that, if I continued much longer in the place, my complaints might be attended with more disagreeable effects to himself; he was therefore anxious to hasten our departure. In the evening I went with him to take leave of the mansa, and, though perfectly convinced that he had robbed me, I resolved to travel through the forest with him, rather than take the chance of being worse served by another guide. We did not find the chief at home, as he had gone to the ourondé to inspect his slaves. We therefore postponed our farewell interview until the following morning. On the same day the women and children assembled about me in the yard, and pretended to shew me glass beads similar to those I had lost. Lamfia affected not to notice these insults, fearing, perhaps, a new altercation with me. I stifled my displeasure, and waited patiently to see the end of this scene, without shewing any anger, which I was certain would only serve to prolong it. I had eaten nothing all day, and a little after sun-set, he gave me some rice very well prepared. Previously to this affair, he always took care to order his supper to be got ready early, that we might take that meal together a little before the sun went down, because, as he said, the Arabs do not like late suppers. Indeed, I could not but feel grateful for the attention he had hitherto paid me. When I fell asleep during the day in my hut, I was often surprised on awaking, to find pistachio-nuts roasted and properly prepared, laid down beside me. I was also indebted to him for always taking my part against any one who wished to injure me. I was nevertheless destined to be the dupe of his assiduities.
On the 7th of July we repaired again to the house of the mansa, to take leave of him, but he was still absent. On our way home I said to Lamfia, perhaps imprudently, that the thief had also taken the razor with which he had shaved himself on the day before the festival. He replied in a very confident manner, that he considered this impossible, and that it was certainly in my sack.
On our return to the hut, he begged me, in the presence of the Mandingo, to examine my baggage once more. After various useless searches, long discussions, and many goings and comings, the razor was at length found in the millet jar, where I am certain it had been that moment put, in the hope of persuading me that it had not been stolen but mislaid. Lamfia wished to restore it to me, but I would not take it, telling him that I wished to have at the same time, all the things I had lost. At this observation he appeared very much disconcerted. Two old men advised me to complain to the chief, if the thief did not immediately restore every thing he had taken. I seized the idea, and threatened to adopt it. He was alarmed, and requested me to wait a little. After a moment’s reflexion he observed, that as I had been robbed under his roof, and as my person and property had been entrusted to his care by the chief of Cambaya, I was under his responsibility, and he therefore considered himself bound to make good whatever I had lost. On this condition I promised silence; but, finding that he was in no hurry to keep his word, and fearing to be plundered a third time, I followed the advice of several old men, who accompanied me to the chief of the district, to beg of him to give me a lodging, until an opportunity should occur for travelling across the forest of Wassoulo. Lamfia, who accompanied us, carried my sack. He had already several times proposed to go to the mansa, to submit to an ordeal, which consisted in passing a red-hot iron across the tongue. The person accused is acquitted if the iron do not burn him, but in that case the accuser is obliged to submit to the same ordeal. Judgment is pronounced against the party who refuses to undergo the operation. If it be the prosecutor, he must make reparation by giving the accused a present; if the latter, he must restore the value of what he is thus found guilty of stealing. This absurd custom, which ignorance has established, prevails throughout the whole of western Africa.
We found the chief in the midst of business. He was presiding over the council of elders, assembled at the women’s mosque. We entered a hut, and soon afterwards the judges arrived. A native of Kankan, who knew something of Arabic, acted as my interpreter; I asked him to perform this office for me, as I did not understand the Mandingo sufficiently to make myself understood. He declared to the assembly, in terms which appeared to me very forcible, the manner in which I had been robbed; mentioning every particular, even the razor scene. Lamfia maintained, with great boldness, that I had not been robbed; he reverted once more to the loss of my paper, still accusing the absent Foulah. My interpreter answered, and stated in my name, that I could never sufficiently express the sense I entertained of the kind reception I had experienced from the inhabitants of Fouta-Dhialon, on my passage through their country; that so far from cheating me, they had behaved to me with the most generous hospitality; that there was no doubt that the person who had stolen my glass beads had also taken the paper. Lamfia, to justify himself, and defend his character, proposed to submit to the ordeal of red-hot iron, which often takes place among the people without any appeal to the judge. The mansa, however, ordered him to be silent. This chief, with whom I asked leave to lodge, advised me to remain with my present host, as he was to depart in two days, with a number of other merchants, to traverse the forests of Wassoulo.[51] I suspected that the mansa was afraid of being put to the expense of maintaining me, and I did not insist further on taking up my residence with him. I replied that I would rather return to Fouta-Dhialon than remain longer with this man, and I requested to be permitted to live with the worthy old Moor, who had continued to pay me amicable visits, and with whom I had always been on good terms. To this the assembly gave a unanimous consent. I left all my baggage under the care of the mansa, until a place should be procured for me in which I could lock it up safely. He urged me, with an air of kindness, to take my woollen wrapper to lay over me at night, observing that I should probably be cold.
I returned to my old quarters to get some medicines which I had left, because Mamadi-Sanici had desired me to prescribe for him. I took a negro with me, as I feared I should be insulted if I went alone; for, though most of the people took my part, and were indignant at Lamfia’s conduct, I was apprehensive that his passion, excited by the scene which had just passed, would lead him to some excess. My precaution was not taken in vain, for he received me very ill, and made a good deal of difficulty in giving me what I demanded. He would have driven me from his hut, and even went so far as to attempt to strike me; but several persons who were present, interfered, and condemned his behaviour. In his fury he said, what he himself had a thousand times contradicted, that I was a christian, who was endeavouring to penetrate into the east, to take advantage of the Musulmans and to overreach them.
This scene, which I had foreseen, but which I could not avoid, vexed me exceedingly, for I was afraid it might lead to unpleasant consequences. However, no attention was paid to Lamfia’s fury; he was looked upon as a rogue irritated at finding himself discovered; and I was told not to mind his accusations. I endeavoured to interest the natives in my behalf, pointing out to them my critical situation, alone and almost destitute in a strange country, and to crown my misfortunes, speaking the language but imperfectly. Many appeared to pity me, and these were the most zealous followers of the Prophet. I then went to the humble hut of my new host, who received me in the best manner he could. He even offered me the mat on which he was himself accustomed to lie; but this I objected to take, being reluctant to deprive the old man of it. He insisted however that I should have it, observing that it became me as a stranger to yield to him, and allow him, a native of the country, to do the honours of his little hut in his own way. I partook of his frugal supper, consisting of a small plate of tau, with some good gombo sauce, seasoned with salt. How happens it that, in every country, the poor man is always the most charitable? Because, being himself unfortunate, he measures another’s wants by his own.
On the morning of the 8th of July, the chief sent for me, and I and the Moor Mohammed went to him. He was visiting the alkali,[52] a Foulah of the Wassoulo, settled at Kankan. He was one of the richest men in the town, and was also a member of the council. I found three or four Mandingoes of rank, who accompanied Mamadi-Sanici. An account was given to all present of the theft that had been committed upon me, and I took notice that Lamfia’s good conduct to me, up to the time of the discovery of the robbery, was mentioned in terms of praise. It was decided that, as no proofs could be brought against him, he could not be punished; a decision which I thought very just. I was informed that the alkali was to be my host, because the sherif Mohammed was poor, and had no rice to give me; and, it was added, that the hut which I should occupy was protected by a lock and key; so that I need not fear any further depredation. The persons present then expressed a desire to examine my effects, alleging, as a reason for so doing, that in case of my being robbed again they might know what I possessed. I was not thankful to them for this precaution; nevertheless, though much against my inclination, I displayed my merchandise, taking good care to hide my notes, lest they might give rise to suspicion. Every thing was closely examined; the glass beads were counted and the cloth was measured. They did not however find my amber, for I had concealed it among some cream of tartar. I opened the packet which contained it, and shewed them the white powder, which they tasted, supposing it to be sugar. When undeceived, they were very anxious that I should give them some medicine: all declaring themselves to be unwell. After having examined every thing, they allowed me to pack up my goods, and none of them asked me for any thing except medicine. A hut was assigned to me, and I placed my property under lock and key, in a store-house, which was attached to my dwelling, a thing I had not before seen in the country. I was very well attended to, and supplied with every thing I could possibly want; but, as I did not wish to live at any one’s expence, I proposed to buy rice, for myself at the market. This was opposed, however, and I was told that I should want for nothing.
This new host being very devout, I took care to be exceedingly attentive to prayers. But I impatiently looked for an opportunity to depart; and I was induced to hope that one would shortly occur. The rains had begun to be frequent; not a day passed over without a storm, and I was continually tormented by the thought that the country through which I should have to travel would be flooded. But even this was less distressing than the idea of staying in a place, where the quarrel which I had had with Lamfia promised me no security for the future. I was afraid that his ill-will towards me might give rise to something unpleasant. However, I was very comfortable with my new host, who was very rich, and much more generous than the generality of Mandingoes. He possessed numerous herds of oxen and cows, which supplied him with abundance of excellent milk. He often sent me some of it, together with a déguet, (a sort of couscous) an attention which no Mandingo had before paid me, with the exception of a sherif of the country, who gave me a little milk, because, as he said, we were relations. I was a neighbour to the Moor Mohammed, and every evening we took our supper together. He often came to bear me company, and he helped to while away my tedious hours, by introducing me to all his friends. This good old man, who was about sixty, was short, and had the features of an Arab; he was inconceivably active, and talked much, and with great rapidity. His wife, who was a negress, had borne him a son, who was at that time between twelve and fifteen years old. The lad was a poor looking creature, and his delicate health caused much anxiety to his old father. The mother was extremely industrious; she cooked all the victuals, and attended to the household concerns. Mohammed had a slave, whom he employed in cultivating a little garden, which surrounded his habitation. Three huts, built upon a piece of ground which the alkali had given him, served for the dwelling of himself and family. He had no field to cultivate, and his only resource was to go from place to place, asking the Mandingoes for rice, foigné, salt, meat, &c. for the maintainance of his family. In the middle of his garden he had a beautiful orange-tree, which bore very fine fruit. He told me he was sorry the oranges were not ripe enough for me to taste them. His poverty, together with the disinterested hospitality which he had extended to me, interested me exceedingly. I regretted that I could not meliorate his condition; but I forced him to accept a few small presents, for which he testified his gratitude in the warmest terms. Mamadi-Sanici sent to ask me for a remedy to give to one of his wives, who had sore eyes. I did not know what to give him, but as it was to my interest not to refuse him any thing, I put a little volatile alkali in water, and directed the eyes to be bathed with it, thinking that at all events it could do no harm. My presence, however, was required, and I went and bathed the patient’s eyes myself. The mansa took the opportunity of asking me for an application for a bad foot, with which he had been afflicted for some years. I prescribed poultices of purslain, which grows spontaneously all over the country. The diseases which I observed to prevail among the people were ulcers on the legs, fevers, leprosy, elephantiasis, and goitre. I also noticed that several negroes had large white marks, of the colour of our skin, on their arms and legs, which I was told arose from ill health. I conjectured that they were marks of leprosy.