In the course of the day, I sold some glass trinkets, to procure provisions for my journey. My host directed one of his women to attend to this business; and she took care to reserve a good profit for herself.
About three o’clock in the afternoon, the chief of Tangrera sent me the man who was to carry my luggage to Fara, where I was to rejoin my guide from Timé. My host escorted me out of the village, when, after wishing me a good journey, he took his leave. He had, in the course of the day, eaten half my colats, but I was pleased to find that his wife had taken only a few grains of salt which had not been put in my bag. My guide informed me that he was the son of the king of Tangrera. When we had advanced a little into the woods, he tried to frighten me. He threw down my bag, which was by no means heavy, saying that he was very much tired, and that either I must carry it in my turn, or give him some cowries for his trouble. I promised that on our arrival at Fara he should be rewarded to his satisfaction. He seemed to doubt the sincerity of my promise, and made many objections. However, finding me determined to resist, he took up the bag again, and proceeded on his way; but at such a quick pace that I could scarcely keep up with him. A little before we reached Fara, I had the same scene over again. He assured me that we were yet very far from the village, an assertion which I could the more easily believe, because Fara is so surrounded by large trees, that it is not seen until you are close upon it. Though my guide was much stronger than I, still I persisted in refusing to pay him before our arrival, well knowing, that if I had the weakness to yield to him, the prince of Tangrera would have left me to finish the journey alone, while he indulged a hearty laugh at my folly.
We entered the village towards sun-set, after crossing a little stream, in which the water did not rise above our ancles. I met several women of our caravan there, who appeared astonished to see me. We had travelled five miles to the N.N.E. During three of these miles the country was but slightly shaded by trees, and the surface of the ground was covered with stones, which caused me considerable pain in walking. I observed several cés and nédés. On my arrival I paid my royal guide, who joyfully returned home. Karamo-osila was very happy to see me again. He immediately informed all the people of the caravan of my arrival; they congratulated me on having rejoined them, and Karamo-osila expressed his regret at having left me alone among infidels. I gave a description of my host, who drank beer, and with whom I did not consider myself very secure; they all joined in laughing and ridiculing him. A fowl was bought to celebrate my return, and I furnished the salt for seasoning it. These merchants, not having made much profit, were obliged to be very economical. They seldom indulge themselves with fowls or fish, or with salt for seasoning their victuals. Sometimes I heard them say to each other: “It is a long time since we had any thing good; let us have a little salt in our supper.” Three or four of the same company often form a sort of partnership; they then mess together, each in turn defraying the expense.
At six in the morning of the 21st of January, we left the village of Fara, and proceeded to the N.W. travelling over a soil composed of gravel and ferruginous stones. I also observed a good deal of red sand. The road was very level, and occasionally shaded with trees. I did not see any trees of very large growth; indeed, none so high as our apple or pear tree. Bombaces and baobabs, the giants of the vegetable kingdom in this part of the world, grow only in the vicinity of villages; I never saw any of them in the woods. Our caravan had prodigiously increased since leaving Tangrera; and our number was now between five and six hundred persons, all laden, and all going to Sansanding and Yamina, besides nearly eighty asses. At ten in the morning we halted at Bangoro, a small walled town, containing about three or four thousand inhabitants. On entering the town, four officers of the customs met us, and, stopping the caravan, they took from each Mandingo a hat, or some other article, by way of security for the duties they had to collect. They were armed with sabres, which they held naked in their hands, but made no use of them. Several negroes of the village came to their assistance, for they had plenty to do with such a numerous caravan. A discussion arose between the officers and the merchants, the latter not liking to be deprived of their hats; but at length the matter was arranged, and we entered the town. As soon as we were installed in our abodes, the officers came to receive their dues, which were paid in colats. A little market was immediately opened under an enormous bombax. As I was going about, offering glass beads for sale, I was met by a saracolet from Tangrera, who, addressing me in the Mandingo language, requested me to follow him. He led the way to a hut, in front of which several of his comrades were sitting, some of whom spoke a little Arabic. He informed me that the Moor Mahomet, whom I had seen at Tangrera, sent his compliments to me, together with a hundred cowries, of which he begged my acceptance, wishing me a prosperous journey. The saracolet then presented his hand to me, saying Bismilahi; I understood by this, that he wished me to say a prayer, and I moved my lips for a moment, then with a serious air I blew upon his hand, which he drew across his face. He immediately counted me down a hundred cowries, adding to them twenty of his own, which were equivalent to a hundred of our country. After expressing my gratitude for this generous conduct, I took leave of the Moor, and hastened to communicate the good news to my guide, who loaded my benefactors with blessings. I immediately spent a few of the cowries in purchasing a fowl for my supper, of which I invited my guide and his companions to partake. They however out of compliment declined doing so, but I made them accept some portion of the fowl. We did not eat together, for I still bore marks of the scurvy: indeed that dreadful malady had entirely disfigured me. Karamo-osila had ordered his women to serve up my victuals apart from the rest, and my guide, who was very attentive to me, often examined my allowance, and if he did not think it enough added some of his own to it.
I observed round the village some very high ronniers and several palm-trees. In the evening about a hundred women assembled in the market-place. Their dress consisted merely of a pagne fastened round the waist; and on their heads they had small straw hats, which fell a little over the ears. Several of them had in their hands tambourines, made of a calabash covered with tanned sheep-skin, and ornamented with iron rings, which produced an agreeable sound. They sung wild airs, and danced together keeping time to their singing and flourishing their tambourines. In this manner, they danced several times round the place, and then went off singing. I walked along the streets, which are narrow and dirty; I saw several men parading about, beating large drums, and women with tambourines, suspended from their necks; to these tambourines were affixed small boards covered with bells and little bits of iron, which being shaken struck against the instrument, and produced a very pleasing sound. I concluded that all these musicians were what are called at the Senegal griotes, or wandering minstrels, who make it their business to sing songs in praise of any who will pay them; those whom I saw at Bangoro were very modest, and did not, like their fraternity at the Senegal, teaze passengers for presents.
These people are always gay; and their cheerfulness forms a striking contrast with the dull, gloomy look of the fanatic Musulman.
The women of this place wear on their lower lip a piece of pewter fastened internally by a plate of the same metal; one end pointed, about two inches long and as thick as a quill projecting on the outside of the lip. This curious ornament is a little varied according to the fancy of the wearers. The custom of piercing the lip is general among the female sex in this part of the country. It is an indispensable ornament to beauty, in the lips of these African coquettes and their admirers. I could not help laughing when I thought of the singular effect such an ornament would produce on the red and white lips of my own fair countrywomen.
On the 22nd January, at six o’clock in the morning, we bade adieu to the merry inhabitants of Bangoro. Our course lay to the N.W. We travelled five miles over a sandy soil covered with stones, and crossed two small dried up marshes. My guide told me that, when he last passed this place, he had experienced much difficulty, the country being at the time inundated, and that, if I had travelled with him in the preceding August, I should probably have been left on the road. The country is in general very naked. About nine o’clock we halted at Débéna, a town containing four or five thousand Bambara inhabitants. The place is surrounded by a wall and a market is held in it. In this market the people of the caravan went to display their salt and colats, which they exchanged with the Bambaras, who, for the value of ten cowries, can purchase seasoning for a whole family’s dinner. However, they seldom indulge in this luxury, and when they buy salt, they reserve it for festivities and rejoicings. The town of Débéna is composed of several small hamlets, very near each other, and the market was held under a large bombax.
In all the inhabited places, situated on our route, we found markets well stocked with the productions of the country, as well as with fish, which is caught in the neighbouring streams, but which is never offered for sale, until it is dried. On my arrival at any village, I always went to the market, to purchase my breakfast. In all the villages between Tangrera and Jenné, there are in the markets women who sell small fried cakes, which are very acceptable to travellers. They cost one or two cowries a piece, and as soon as the merchants arrive at a halting station, they send one of their women to the market to buy some of these cakes, which they eat, while dinner is preparing.
On the 23d of January, at six in the morning, we set off and proceeded nine miles, first to the N.N.E. and then to the E.N.E. The soil over which we travelled was composed of hard grey sand and some ferruginous stones. No vegetation was visible except cés and nédés. In this part, the country is very level.