At the distance of a mile south-east I observed two hills, about a hundred, or a hundred and twenty fathoms in height: they appeared to be clothed with fine vegetation. Under the baobabs, on the outside of the village, a little market is held; but it is ill supplied, and nothing is sold in it but pistachios and millet. About half-past two o’clock we left Magna-Gnounan, and proceeded six miles northward, over a road covered with ferruginous stones and gravel. The butter-tree still continued to be abundant. We crossed four streams, all tributary to the Dhioliba. A little before sun-set we halted at Khoukhola, where we passed the night. This neat little village is shaded by numerous baobabs, with the fruit and leaves of which the inhabitants trade. I saw some huts built of bricks baked in the sun.
At six in the morning, we resumed our journey in the direction of N.N.E. The soil over which we passed was composed of hard grey sand, mixed with white and pink calcareous stones. After travelling four miles, we came to a large stream, and next arrived at Kiébala, a small village, where we settled the passage duties, without being detained more than an hour. I saw in this village several wells; pieces of wood were fixed round them to prevent the earth from falling in. I also observed some tobacco-plantations. The caravan stopped in a field without the village; not far from this spot I saw a tree, to the branches of which were tied pieces of string, leather, cloth, &c. Under the tree were some empty earthen vessels, ranged in regular order. I was informed that this was a burial place. It is the custom of the Bambaras to deposit in the graves of the dead, provisions, cloth, and various other things, keeping a portion of these articles, which they hang upon a tree near the burial place, and putting the eatables into earthen vessels. If, during the night, dogs, or any wild animal, should devour the latter, it is believed that the guardian spirit of the deceased has been banqueting at his grave. These superstitions prevail only in some parts of the country.
Continuing our course N.E., on a soil similar to that which we had passed over in the morning, about ten or eleven o’clock, we arrived at Sérasso, where we passed the rest of the day. This village, which contains a population of about three hundred, is situated in a well cultivated plain, covered with cés, nédés, bombaces, baobabs, and mimosas. Since we left the village of Fara, yams and rice had become very rare. They are but little cultivated, owing, no doubt, to the dryness of the ground; for rains are not so common in this direction as further to the south. Millet of both kinds and maize are, however, cultivated here; the former in great abundance.
On the 2nd of February, at six o’clock, we left Sérasso, and proceeded eastward, in order to cross a bridge at a short distance from the village. This bridge is built, like that of Cambaya, across the Tankisso, except that it is covered with straw, and then with a layer of earth. It had steps on each side, a precaution which I had not hitherto seen among the negroes. This bridge is more convenient than any other I saw in the interior. At its entrance were stationed two negroes, who were sitting beside a little fire, though the weather was any thing but cold. The heat here is nearly the same as at the Senegal; but it varies a little. The two negroes received the passage-duties: they demanded twenty cowries for each load of colats. The Mandingoes would have preferred paying double the amount in kind; for they had not much money. The men and women passed gratis. We were delayed for a considerable time by the stubbornness of the asses; the negroes had infinite trouble in getting them across; two were carried as far as the middle of the bridge, and then they darted off at full gallop. The natives of the country are not required to pay passage-duty; this contribution is only demanded from foreigners. I asked several persons the name of the stream we had just crossed. They told me it was called Koua, a name which I know is common to all streams. We advanced four miles E.N.E., across a level plain, covered with large trees; the soil was composed of hard grey sand, and here and there I perceived some blocks of black granite.
About nine in the morning we halted at Mouriosso. The houses in this place are surmounted by terraces built of bricks baked in the sun. Shortly before we entered the village, we crossed a stream, on the banks of which I saw gardens containing fine beds of onions. These gardens are cultivated by the women, many of whom were employed in weeding. They water the ground frequently. Near the gardens are wells, two feet deep, whence the water is taken in calabashes to which no ropes are attached. The soil of these gardens is black, rich, and very productive. They are surrounded by fences of dry briars and thorns, to keep out the poultry. Several of the women whom we saw in these gardens had no other clothing than wretched pagnes fastened round their waists. They came to sell us tops of onions to put into our sauce. We paid them in cowries with which they bought glass beads to adorn themselves. They sometimes wear necklaces of chesnut-coloured beads, which are preferred in the country to all others, because they are the cheapest.
On our arrival a market was immediately opened under a large tree, the branches of which were covered with roots, like one I saw on a former occasion and which I have already mentioned. The market was supplied with millet, a little rice, pistachios, onions, and zambalas. There were also some women selling maumies, some of which we bought, as our dinner was not ready.
The village is composed of numerous little enclosures, each of which is occupied by one family. The place contains a population of about two hundred. The people cultivate round their little habitations water-melons, giraumons, and calabashes, the stems of which they train up to the roofs of their huts. The fields surrounding the village are sown with small millet: I saw some persons employed in weaving; but smiths, if there be any, are not common, for I did not see one.
CHAPTER XVI.
Oulasso. — Facibrisso. — Toumané. — Implements of husbandry. — Couara. — Koraba. — Douasso. — Kong. — Baunan. — Garo. — Forges. — Nibakhasso.