At four o’clock on the 16th, I was requested to wait on the sherif Oulad-Marmou, to whose good graces the sale of my merchandise had somewhat recommended me. I was shewn into a large lofty room on the ground-floor, which was lighted from an opening in the ceiling. To one part of the ceiling was attached a cord, supporting a lamp, in which vegetable butter was burned by way of oil. A mattress was laid upon the floor above a mat; a brass candlestick of European manufacture, in which was a sort of candle or taper, and a small cupboard, formed in the wall, and fastened by a lock and key similar to ours, together with some sacks of grain, standing in a corner, were all that the room contained. I ascended by a good staircase to the terrace, where I saw several little closets, all empty, except one, which appeared to be the sherif’s wardrobe, for some of his clothes were hanging to a cord, fastened to the wall. I was requested to sit on a round leather cushion, near which a mat was spread: and I found myself in company with seven Moors and a negro, all merchants of Jenné.
A neat little round table was brought and placed before us; it had legs three inches high. I thought at first that it was a table for playing some game, for it was inlaid with pieces of ivory and brass, ranged in regular order; but on the entrance of a large pewter dish, containing an enormous piece of a sheep, which had been killed in the morning, and stewed with a great quantity of onions, I discovered that I had been invited to dinner.
The sherif had beside him a covered basket, containing several small round loaves, weighing about half a pound each, and made of wheat-flour and yeast. He broke some of them in pieces, several of which he placed before each of us. Although our dinner was somewhat in the European style, yet we had neither knives nor forks, but all ate with our fingers. I found that the bread was very good, and certainly I never expected to make such a meal that day. We all helped ourselves from the dish with our hands, but with a certain degree of politeness. The conversation, which was exceedingly lively, was all at the expense of the poor christians. I was again asked whether I had eaten pork and drunk spirits. I made them the same reply as before, at which they burst into laughter, and began to ridicule the Europeans.
Our repast being ended, tea was introduced. The sherif, on this occasion, seemed to make his very best display. He was evidently anxious to let his negro guest see his superiority. We were attended by a young and handsome female slave. A box was brought in containing a porcelain tea service, which the sherif himself arranged on a plate of copper, which served the purpose of a tea-board. The cups, which were very small, were placed within others of a larger size, which had feet like egg-cups. We each took four of these cups of tea, with white sugar; and, after dinner, of which the sherif did the honours admirably well, we took a walk on the banks of the river. We sat down for a few minutes to see the canoes pass by, and, afterwards, we all said the evening prayer together, it being too late to go to the mosque. We then each returned to our homes. I found a great difference between the Moors of Jenné and the Brakna Moors, among whom I had lived eight months.
On the 18th of March, the new moon was saluted with several discharges of musketry, and, on the 19th, commenced the feast of the Ramadan. The Haggi-Mohammed asked me whether I meant to fast during the Ramadan. My interest was so much concerned in submitting to it, that I dared not venture to refuse; and, indeed, the fast was by no means so great a hardship to me now, as it had been in 1824. Then I had no shelter but a tent, whilst now, I was protected from the heat of the sun, in a cool well-aired house; so that I did not suffer much from thirst. At sun-set, a beverage, made of tamarinds, was brought to me, and, afterwards another, made of honey and sour milk, strained and dried in the sun, forming a kind of very hard cheese, which the Moors, who are fond of it, bring to Jenné. They reduce it to powder, and mix it with their drink. On the following days, a sort of pudding was brought to me, made of very white flour, mixed with a few tamarinds; so that I could patiently wait until supper was ready.
About eight in the evening, an enormous mess of rice, boiled with mutton was brought to me. In the course of the day, I had expressed a wish to buy some milk, for the purpose of mixing it with water, to drink in the night; but I could not get any at the market. However, about ten at night, the Haggi-Mohammed, sent me a good quantity of milk and also, a candle to light me at my repast. About one in the morning, I was supplied with a breakfast as abundant as the supper of the previous evening.
I soon found an advantage in this change of habits; for I was much better served in the night time than I had hitherto been in the day. Nothing could be easier than this kind of abstinence, which merely consisted in sitting up a little later than usual for the purpose of making a hearty meal, and sleeping away the hours devoted to abstinence. The slaves are obliged to observe the fast, but they, as well as their masters make ample amends in the night for their privations during the day.
On the 20th, I determined to make a present of my umbrella to the sherif. I thought it but right to do so, as he was to procure me a conveyance by water to Timbuctoo. He appeared highly pleased with the present. I thought that the Haggi-Mohammed was already sufficiently rewarded by the purchase of my amber and coral at a price much below their value; however, as I wished to continue on good terms with him, I made him a further present of a yard of calico, which I had reserved for myself.
At sun-set Oulad-Marmou gave me a handful of dates, and a very fine water-melon. He repeated this present every evening until my departure: the umbrella had completely established me in his favour. The produce of the sale of my merchandise was valued at thirty thousand cowries, and the sherif bought cloth of the country for me to that amount, assuring me that it would sell well at Timbuctoo. The cloth was packed up in two pagnes, for which I was indebted to his liberality. He also gave me four yellow wax-candles, made in the country, which I burned on board the canoe, during my passage.
On the 22nd of March, I was informed that I could start next day for Timbuctoo. The sherif sent me in the evening, a new loaf and a very good mutton stew for my supper.