of Novelty—The Emperor Alexander's Entry into Paris—Of the

Establishment of M. Delacroix—At the Tuilleries—Of the King—His

Regard for England—France still unsettled—Advice of Galba to

Piso—Curious Glass Stair Case—Of the French Theatres, and their

Italian Opera—Number of Bureau d'Ecrivains.
[61]
[CHAP. V.]
Visit to the Royal Palaces—St. Cloud—St.
Cyr—Malmaison—Versailles—Its Formality—Accuracy of Pope's
Description of the Old Style of Decoration—Comparison of Windsor
and Versailles—City of Versailles greatly
reduced—Trianon—Sèvres—Porcelain Manufactory—Barrier of
Passy—Of the Harvest—Castle of Vincennes—Few private Carriages at
Paris—Great Numbers of Fiacres and Cabriolets—Attend at the
Foreign Office for Passports to leave Paris—Arrive at
Fontainebleau—Memorable for the Abdication of
Buonaparte—Reflections on the Captivity and Character of the
Pope—Reflections on Buonaparte—At Montereau; Battle near the
Town—Sens—Auxerre—Description of the French Diligence—Dinners,
&c.
[79]

[CHAP. VI.]
At Avalon—Public Promenades—Number of Beggars—Villages and
Country Houses more numerous in Vine than in Corn Countries-Farming
in this District—Land Tax and Customs of Descent—Dijon—A large
and handsome City—Its Public Buildings—Company in the Diligence
increased by the Arrival of two French Officers—Their Political
Opinions—Advantage of the Diligence—Arrival at Dole—Battle near
Auxonne—Genlis—Poligny—Vin d'Arbois—Woods but without
Birds—Moray—English Breakfast—Resemblance to North
Wales—Magnificent View of the Lake of Geneva—Excellent Roads made
by Buonaparte—Visit to Ferney—Description of Geneva—View from its
Cathedral—Its Manufactures—Population—Territory—Determination to
visit the Alps; and not to go into Italy
[100]
[CHAP. VII.]
Departure for Chamouny—Bonneville—Valley of Cluse—Cascade
d'Arpennas—St. Martin—Extravagant Bill—Proceed on Mules—Their
astonishing Safety—River Arve—Pont de Chèvres—Cascade of
Chede—Extravagance of English Travellers very prejudicial—Lake of
Chede—Servoy and its Mines—Visited by the Empress Maria
Louisa—Glaciers des Bossons—Definition of Glacier—Of the Valley
and Village of Chamouny—Guides—Politics of the Savoyards—State of
Taxation —Ascent of Montanvert—Magnificent and awful Spectacle of
the Mer de Glace—Height of various Mountains, compared with Mont
Blanc—Simile from Pope—Return to Chamouny—Larch and Fir mixed on
these vast Mountains—Their Productions—The Valley continually
threatened with Avalanches
[119]
[CHAP. VIII.]
Leave Chamouny—Delightful Situation of Valorsine—Festival
there—Of the Savoyard Peasants—Anecdote from M. de
Saussure—Country difficult to travel through—Trient—Magnificent
View from the Fourcle—The French not so much disliked in the Valais
as their Cruelty deserved—Castle of la
Rathia—Martigny—Unsuccessful Attempt of two English Gentlemen to
ascend Mont Blanc—Less adventurous, we did not ascend Mount St.
Bernard—Cascade of the Pisse Vache—Number of Idiots and Goitrous
Persons in the Valais—Opinion of Mr. Coxe on the Subject—Opinion
of M. de Saussure—St. Maurice—Its strong Position—Roman Bridge
and Antiquities—Passports demanded here—Different Colour of the
Rhone here and at Geneva.
[139]
[CHAP. IX.]
Bex—Industry of the Inhabitants of this Country—Their Cottages and
Wandering Lives—Salt Springs—Aigle—Growth of
Corn—Villeneuve—Agitated State of the Lake—Labours of the
Inhabitants often destroyed by the Fall of
Rocks—Chillon—Clarens—Vevay—Magnificent View from its Church—Of
General Ludlow—Lausanne—Its singular Situation—Its Antiquity—Its
Cathedral—View from the Church-yard—Population and
Manufactures—French Manners prevail here—Gibbon—Pope Felix V. a
singular Character—Reformation—Morges—Festivity there—Rolle—Its
Spa—Country Seats—Delightful Scene from the Garden of its Castle
in the Evening—Nyon—Château de Pranqui—Joseph
Buonaparte—Vines—Swiss Artillery—Copet—Anecdote of Mde. de
Staël—Versoi—Return to Geneva
[156]
[CHAP. X.]
On the Introduction of History into Tours—Early Government of
Geneva—Reformation—Alliance with Berne and Zurich—A few Laws
peculiar to Geneva—Theatre—Town Hall—Permission obtained to
reside at Geneva—Lodging procured in Consequence—Fortifications of
Geneva not devoid of Utility—Views from the Ramparts—Maintenance
of the Allied Troops very expensive to Geneva—Regret of the
Genevese at the Destruction of some ancient Avenues by them—Meet a
Person who gives a melancholy Account of the State of Geneva under
the French—State of Society—Fête de Navigation—Dress,
&c.—Epigram by a Prince of
Hesse—Rousseau—Voltaire—Raynal—Remarks of a Savoyard
Peasant—The College of Geneva—The Library—Of Calvin—Water
Works—Society of Arts—Corn Magazine—Churches, Service, &c. at
Geneva.
[174]
[CHAP. XI.]
Excursion to the Perte du Rhone—Magnificent Spectacle which it
affords—Rise of the Rhone—Hop Gardens—Malt Liquor badly
made—Climate of Geneva—Of Switzerland in general—Opinion of
Haller—Soil, Grain, and Population of Switzerland—Quantities of
Cattle—Various Plants—Visit to a Watchmaker's Warehouse—Its
elevated Situation—Great Ingenuity, but want of what in England
would be thought good Taste—Circles of Genevese—Introduced to a
French Gentleman who bad twice escaped the Guillotine—Walks and
Rides—Junction of the Rhone and Arve—Coligny—Carrouge—St.
Julian—Battle there—Inferiority of the Austrian Troops to the
French—French Politics—Empress Maria Louisa—Lord Castlereagh at
Geneva
[193]
[CHAP. XII.]
Regret at leaving Geneva—Lake of
Joux—Coponex—Robbers—Lassera—Curious Separation of a
Rivulet—-Orbe—Face of the Country—Price of Land—Yverdun—Sea
View—Spa—School—Anecdote of a Conductor—Game—Bridge of
Serrier—Neufchâtel, said to resemble Naples—Description of its
Territory—Anecdote respecting the Religion of Landeron—David
Riri—Sketch of the History of Neufchâtel—Competitors for its
Sovereignty—Lake of Bienne—Island of St. Pierre—Singular
Government of Bienne—Great Change on passing the Pont de
Thiel—Charge of Rapacity against the Swiss—Pleasant
Travelling—Extensive View from Julemont—Agriculture—Arberg
[205]

[CHAP. XIII.]
Morat—famous for Kirschwasser—Monument commemorating the Defeat of
the Burgundians removed by the French—Its
Inscription—Seedorf—View of the Island of St. Pierre—Beauty of
the distant View of Berne—Its Interior also handsome—Its
Fortifications—Stags and Bears kept in the Trenches—Public
Library—Botanic Garden—Chemists' and Bakers' Shops—Convicts
chained in the Streets—Beautiful Public Walks—Government of
Berne—Opinion of Pope—Excursions to Hofwyl and Hindelbanck—Extent
of the Canton of Berne—Its Population, Productions, &c. &c—State
of the Clergy—Departure from Berne—Village of Worb—Saw
Mill—Bleach Greens—Care which the Swiss take of their
Horses—Sumiswald—Little Wooden Inn—Zell—Castle of
Haptalla—Irrigation—Beautiful Situation of Lucerne—Its Melancholy
Interior—General Pfiffer's Model—Beautiful Lake—Mount Pilate and
Rigi—Visit two Classic Spots—And the Small
Canton—Gersau—Intolerance—Lake and Canton of Zug—Swiss
Honey—Magnificent View of Zurich, described by
Zimmerman—Considerations on the Difference between the Swiss
Cantons, &c
[222]

[CHAP. XIV.]
Zurich—Its Interior not answerable to its distant
Appearance—Population, Buildings, &c.—Dinner at the Table
d'Hote—Excursion on the Lake—Country and Villages near
Zurich—Winter there—Cascade of Lauffen—Its magnificent
Effect—Cyder—Bad Vintage—Schaffhausen—Its
Bridge—Population—Laws—Manufactures, &c.—View of Mount
Banken—Chapsigre Cheese—Swiss Tea—Set out in the Diligence with a
Doctor of Leipzig—His uncommon Love of Smoking—Civility, Dress,
&c. of the Germans—Deutlingen—Pass the Danube—Taste of the
Germans for Music, preferable to the political Arguments of the
French—Passports—Subdivisions of Germany—Trade—Posts well
conducted—Accident at Bahlingen—House of Hohenzollern
[242]
[CHAP. XV.]
Tubingen—Its University—Different from ours—Agree to post to
Frankfort—Of German Posting, and
Dinners—Feather-beds—Stoves—Stutgard—A handsome City—Palace,
its Decorations—Industry of the Queen—Council Chamber—Royal
Stables—Garrison composed handsome Troops—Palace at
Ludwigsburg—Waggons and Traffic on the road—Heilbron—Escape from
being overturned—Sinzheim—Cossaok arrives there—Heidelberg—Its
Castle—Venerable in Ruins—The Inn—Rich Country—Quantity of
Potatoes—Manheim—Regularly built, but much deserted—The Palace in
Decay—Walks—Darmstadt—Unfurnished and ill
situated—Palace—Handsome Gardens—Frankfort a Magnificent
City—Inns—Opulence of its Merchants—Population—Jews—Gates and
Fortifications—Cassino—Villas—Orchards—Hochst—Inscription—Hochheim—Rhiagau
Wines—Mayence—Its Strength—Handsome only at a Distance—Its
Bridge—Cathedral—Population—Exportation of Corn—Large Cabbage
[258]
[CHAP. XVI.]
Embark on the Rhine—Political Rhapsodies of two
Frenchmen—Beautiful Scenery—Gulph of Bingerlock—Blighted state of
the Vines—Most distressing to the Inhabitants—Boppart—'God Save
the King'—Bonfires—Size of Paris and London—St.
Goar—Coblentz—Royal Saxon Guards—Ruins of
Ehrenbreitstein—Andernach—The Devil's
House—Lowdersdorf—Linz—Bonn—Illuminations, Balls, &c.—End of
the Picturesque Scenery—Boat driven on Shore—Walk to Cologne—A
vast and gloomy City—Simile of Dr. Johnson's—Few Country Houses on
the Rhine—Rubens—His excellence as a Painter and his great
Modesty—Juliers—Aix la Chapelle—Its Antiquity—Waters—Pleasant
Situation—Population not equal to its
Estent—Burscheid—Manufactures of Cloth, &c.—Cathedral—Sunday ill
observed—Liege—A large and extremely dirty
City—Booksellers—Cutlery—Distress of the
Manufacturers—Thieves—Bad Money—Expeditions Public
Carriage—Axiom of Rousseau—St.Tron—Chimes—Tirlemont, its much
reduced Manufactures
[278]
[CHAP. XVII.]
Population of the Netherlands—Louvain—Its Public
Buildings—University—Character of the Belgians—By some
represented as the worst in Europe—That Statement probably
overcharged—Extortion—John Bull at Paris—French Kitchens,
&c.—Breweries—Roads—Taste in Gardening—Canals not an agreeable
mode of Travelling—Heavy Taxes—Unsettled Political State—Vast
Numbers of English at Brussels—Its Extent, Population and
Appearance—The Park—Anecdote of Peter the Great—Town
House—Churches—Collections of Paintings—Anecdote of
Bassano—Hotels—Table d'Hote, like the Tables at
Cheltenham—Expence of Living—Houses—Jurourin—Forest of
Sogne—House of Correction compared with ours—Walk round the
City—Fortified Towns—Sieges of Ostend, Valenciennes, Troy and
Azotus—Malines—Considerations on its Decline—Its
Silk—Population—Buildings—Manner of cutting the Trees near the
Roads—Antwerp, its Importance—Docks—River—Riches of
Belgium—Buildings at Antwerp—Accuracy of the Flemish
Painters—Appearance of the Country—The Inns not equally decorated
with those in Germany—Wooden Shoes
[296]
[CHAP. XVIII.]
Ghent—Its great Size—Decreased in Populalation and
Consequence—Charles
V.—D'Arteville—Canals—Trade—Buildings-Prison—Land and Water
Travelling—Ostend and Bruges—Derivation of Bourse—Noisy and
Silent Travellers—Proficiency of Foreigners in English—Taste in
Bonnets—Sportsmen without Game—Courtray—Dogs Drawing—Boundary
Stone of France—Custom House—Passports, Danger of being
without—Lille—Fortified by
Vauban—Population—Buildings—Theatre—Society—Œconomical
Residence-Remarkable View from
Cassel—Berg—Fens—Canals—Dunkirk—First Impressions—The Origin
of its Name—Buildings and Population—Flemish Language—Of the
Union of Belgium with France—Political Consideration—Dunkirk sold
by Charles II.—Lord Clarendon's House so called—Its Fortifications
demolished—Gravelines—-Its strong Situation—Liberty and
Equality—Cheap Travelling—Calais the last English Possession in
France—Contrary Winds—French Officers displeased at the
Theatre—General Jealousy of England—Embark on board a French
Packet—Loquacity of the French—Arrival in England—Its Superiority
to other Countries
[317]

A TOUR THROUGH SOME PARTS OF FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, &c. &c.

CHAP. I.