SOME of the most curious Coffee-drinkers have informed me, that as soon as they have reduced the Berries to Powder, ’tis the best way to put the fresh-ground Coffee into the Coffee-Pot, which should be either of Stone or Silver; and let it stand over the Fire a Minute or two, before they pour the Water upon it: Others, who have not the Opportunity of getting their Berries fresh roasted, recommend the drying and warming them before the Fire, immediately before they grind them. And indeed both these ways I find contribute greatly to the good Flavour of the Liquor; but whether we prepare this Liquor by Decoction or Infusion, it commonly remains thick and troubled for some Minutes after it is made, unless we pour into it a Spoonful or two of cold Water, which immediately precipitates the more heavy Parts to the bottom, and renders it clear enough for drinking. In travelling I have often found my Account in packing the Powder of fresh-roasted Coffee in Bottles, which for more than twenty days has preserved its Strength and Goodness; which I mention for the sake of those who have been so much used to drink Coffee in the Morning, that they have not their Health without it, or have been forced to take up with ill-tasted damaged Stuff in some Country Village. I am the more careful to make this Remark, because I have sometimes been a Sufferer on this Account, and I would advance, as much as possible, the Content of Mankind.
THE first Knowledge and Use of Coffee is not certainly known; but, according to Banesius, it was discovered by mere Accident: He tells us, “It is the common Tradition amongst the Eastern People, that a certain Keeper of Camels or Goats in Arabia Felix, complained to the Religious of a Monastery in those Parts, that his Herds, twice or thrice a Week, not only kept awake all Night long, but spent it in frisking and dancing in an unusual manner. The Prior of the Monastery, led by his Curiosity, and weighing the Matter, believed that this must happen from the Food of these Creatures. Marking therefore diligently that very Night, in company with one of his Monks, the very Place where the Goats or Camels pastured, when they danced; found there certain Shrubs or Bushes, on the Fruit of Berries, of which they fed. He resolved to try the Virtues of these Berries himself; thereupon boiling them in Water, and drinking thereof, he found, by Experience, it kept him awake in the Night. Hence it happened that he enjoined those of his Monastery the daily Use of it; for this procuring Watchfulness, made them more readily and surely attend their Devotions, which they were obliged to perform in the Night. When by this frequent use of it, they daily experienced its Wholesomness, and how effectually it conduced to the preserving them in perfect Health, the Drink grew in request throughout the whole Kingdom; and, in progress of time, other Nations and Provinces of the East fell into the use of it.”[A]
THIS Story may very likely have given rise to that Opinion so generally receiv’d amongst the Italians, That the Use of Coffee was first discover’d and brought out of Asia into Europe by some Fryers.
THE same Author mentions, “That some among the Turks, in a sort of Thankfulness to these Monks, have sett and peculiar daily Orisons for Sciadly and Aidrus, which they believe are the Names of the Monks beforemention’d.”
BUT it is a more receiv’d Opinion throughout the Turkish Empire, that an Angel taught the Use of this Coffee-Drink to a Mussel-man, or true Believer: however, of this we are certain, the Use of it was not known in England, till the Year 1657; at which time Mr. Daniel Edwards, a Turkey-Merchant, in his Return from Smyrna to London, brought over with him one Pasqua Rosee, a Ragusean Greek, who was used to prepare this Liquor for him every Morning: The Novelty of it drew so great Resort to his House, that he lost all the Fore-part of the Day by it; insomuch that he thought it expedient to rid himself of this Trouble, by allowing his Greek Servant (in conjunction with his Son-in-law’s Coachman) to make and sell it publickly. They set up their Coffee-House in St. Michael’s Alley in Cornhill, which was the first in London. But some small time after, these Partners fell out and parted; and the Coachman got leave to pitch a Tent in St. Michael’s Church-yard, and there to sell his Coffee in opposition to Pasqua, as appears by a Letter written at that time by a curious Gentleman, who lately communicated it to me.
AND thus was the Use of Coffee first introduced amongst us. The Cheapness of it, with the Conveniencies in this Way of meeting (being preferable to those in Taverns and Ale-Houses) soon increas’d its Drinkers; and other Coffee-Houses were set up in most Parts of the Kingdom: so that, in a few Years, it did not only gain a general Esteem with us, but also became one of the most valuable Commodities imported by the East-India and Turkey Companies.
WE may here observe, That King Charles II. finding the daily Increase of Coffee-Houses, and that at those Places People were apt to talk too freely of the State, endeavour’d the suppressing of them: but the Judges being consulted, they declared it could not be done by Law; and only ended in laying a Tax on them.
OF its Vertues; It is noted, That the Arabs, and others of the Eastern People, in the Summer-Season, use only a Decoction made of the outside Husks of this Fruit; and in the cooler Seasons make use of the Kernels, esteeming the first to be cooling, and the other to be of a hotter Nature. Veslingius seems to be of their opinion, in his Notes on Alpinus, where he tells us, The Husk and Kernel of this Berry have different Qualities; the first he esteems cold and dry, and the latter to be moderately warm: And this Assertion is likewise confirm’d to us, by Peter de la Valle.
Dr. Lemery of Paris, speaking of Coffee, as it is in use amongst the Europeans, tells us, It is of an excellent drying Quality, comforts the Brain, and dries up Crudities in the Stomach. Mr. Ray mentions it to be of singular Use and Efficacy to such as are afflicted with Pains in the Head, Vertigo, Lethargy, and Coughs: it has a good Effect on moist and cold Constitutions; but on the other hand, he disallows the Use of it to such as are Paralytick, and likewise such as are troubled with Melancholy Vapours, or have Hot Brains.
OTHER Authors assert, it cures Consumptions, Swooning Fits, and the Rickets; and that it helps Digestion, rarefies the Blood, suppresses Vapours, gives Life and Gayety to the Spirits, prevents Sleepiness after eating, provokes Urine and the Catamena. The Arabian Women drink this Liquor constantly in their Periodical Visits, and find a good Effect from it. It contracts the Bowels, and confirms the Tone of the Parts, being drank after Victuals, provided it be fresh made; for if it stands but two or three Hours, it loseth much of its Virtue. It is prevalent in such as have Running-Humours, Sores, or King’s-Evil. It is an effectual Remedy against Worms in Children; so that if the Mother drinks frequently of it when she is With-Child, the Infant will not be troubled with Worms, during its first Years. ’Tis allowed to be a strong Antihypnotick, greatly dissipating sleepy Vapours, and Fumes of Wine. ’Tis likewise useful to such as are afflicted with Rheumatick or Gouty Humours. The Dutch Physicians commend the Use of it in Intermitting Fevers, and hold it to be good against Infection; because of the great Refreshment it gives the nobler Parts of the Body, and its sudden Effect upon the Spirits, which are wonderfully recreated by it. And it is apparently the Opinion of all Physicians who have yet wrote concerning the Plague, That such Bodies whose Spirits are the most overcome by Fear, are the most subject to receive Infections. And again, That the Spirits must be refresh’d only by such Liquors, or Preparations, as will not promote Inflammations. And of this nature, say they, is Coffee, which by a right Use supports the vital Flame, and defends the Body from Pestilential Infection. And as such it is generally recommended, as a necessary Drink, at least twice a day; the first thing in a Morning, and at four in the Afternoon. Now whether the Hypothesis of venomous Animalcula brought by the Air, or that of Aerial Atoms, poison’d and rendred unwholesom, be the Cause of the Pestilence, will be examin’d in another Work; but at present I shall only say, That most of the Physicians, of both Sects, prescribe the same Methods of Prevention, and of Cure.