Gibraltar, Thursday, 30 [May, 1833].
We have arrived here quite safely from Tetuan, and hope to be back at Granada by the 6th of June for el dia de Corpus.
Leaving his wife at Granada, Ford hurried to Madrid to be present at the solemn recognition of Isabella as heiress to the Spanish crown. In spite of the protests of Don Carlos, the oath of allegiance was taken by the Cortes in the Church of Geronimo at Madrid (June 20th, 1833). The capital was given up for days to magnificent festivities, which culminated in a bull-fight, given in the Plaza Mayor on Saturday, June 22nd. The whole square was converted into a superb spectacle, the windows of the houses being used as boxes. Under a gorgeous canopy in the centre window of the Town Hall sat the King and Queen; on either side of them were the royal family and the court. The King arrived in state at 5 o’clock. The arena was cleared by halberdiers, dressed in the costume of the old guard of Philip II. The four knights, who took part in the fight, led a splendid procession round the arena. Each was accompanied by his sponsor, in a state coach and six, attended by running footmen. The sponsors, the Dukes of Frias, Alva, and Infantado, and the Count of Florida Blanca, were followed by troops of gaily dressed bull-fighters and their assistants, leading horses from the King’s stables, saddled with silver trappings, and their manes and tails plaited with ribbons. They were succeeded by four troops, each consisting of forty men, one equipped as ancient Spaniards, the second as Romans, the third as wild Indians, and the fourth as Moors. When all had taken their places the bull-fight began. The bulls were let loose, and each of the four knights in turn advanced on horseback clad in silk, and armed only with a short javelin. Their safety depended on the skill of the matadors who attended them. Care had been taken that the bulls should not be of their usual ferocity; but, even as it was, one of the knights was severely wounded.[37]
Malaga, June 2 [1833].
If you do not repent you of your hospitable offer of giving me a bed, during the approaching shows and ceremonies, I should be delighted to run up for a few days. As I should come alone, any hole or corner in your house would be perfectly good enough, and I should put you by no means out of your way.
I hope to be at Granada by Thursday, and will consult Don José’s tailor on the subject of a coat, something blue, turned up with red and a few dollars of gold lace; you can pass me, in this decent livery, as an attaché extraordinary from the Pacha of Tetuan, or a proconsul from his B.M. Consul-General at Tangiers. I hope in this disguise to be allowed to stand behind your Excellency’s chair at the different ceremonies, bull-fights, rows (si Dios quiere), and hold your dress cocked hat.
My wife is not well, and much knocked up by this last journey, and will do quite well to remain quiet in the Alhambra. Indeed, some repose is absolutely necessary to her, both bodily and mentally.
This is a warm spot; and having dined with the consul, eaten the raisins, drunk the Malaga, and looked at the clay figures, nought remains but to pack up the Alforjas [saddle-bags] and be off to Granada.
I wrote you a letter from Tetuan, which I hope reached you, and was less tedious than one of sixty pages from Mr. Edward Drummond Mortimer Auriol Hay.
I hear there will be no time for an answer to reach me at Granada, as I must set out about the 10th to arrive the 16th. All sorts of conveyances will no doubt be occupied, and I shall have to ride over the interminable plains of Castille, and shall arrive as brown as the Plenipo from Algiers.