“Amarillas is, without any sort of doubt, the first man in Spain, and of the soundest political sentiments, a true friend to England, and most anxious to recognise the Americas, which he always told me must be the first step to the welfare of Spain. He has property in Andalucia which has been ruined by the non-exportation of their oils.

“My brother and his family (all most super-excellent people and of transcendental goodness) are quite well, and the five Miss Fords are the dearest friends.

“I amuse myself much with old Spanish books and old Spanish recollections, and have my pen in my hand. The more I read, the more ignorant I find I am, and how the middle age of life has been mis-spent. I am rubbing up what I knew at eighteen and nineteen; it is an awful thing, now the world is so learned and the lower orders walking encyclopedias, to think of writing anything and printing. Nous verrons.”

Once settled at Exeter, Ford began to write an account of his Spanish experiences. The pocketbooks, in which he had noted whatever had impressed him in his travels or his reading, were brought out, and the task was commenced with characteristic zest. But the book which he had planned in 1834 was never written. Many circumstances led to the abandonment of the design. For a time he was discouraged by Addington’s criticisms. Then his literary ambitions were temporarily checked by the passion for house-building and landscape-gardening; when these were revived, they were fully occupied in the articles which, from 1836 onwards, he contributed to the Quarterly Review. Finally the material which he had collected was embodied in The Handbook for Spain (1845), and the Gatherings from Spain (1846).

The old pocket-books, filled with notes and sketches, revived pleasant memories of Spain:—

Exeter, March 10, 1834.

I have been rubbing up my notes on the coast of Andalucia, and have been in the Bottegas of Xeres, drinking the golden Consular; thence to Tarifa, and sucked a sweet orange with Guzman el Bueno. Thence to Gib., round of beef and porter at Griffiths’. So to Malaga; all sweet wine, raisins, and Consular uniforms. I cannot say how much the fighting one’s old battles over again delights me. I am afraid it will delight the gentle reader less. If I were to write familiar letters like old Howell,[42] perhaps they might do, but the times won’t stand that now. Penny Magazines are all the order of the day. Well! well! dulce est desipere in loco. I often think that one day would take me to Falmouth, and six to Cadiz to the society of the fair Brackybrigas, and another day per steamer to the dark-eyed Sevillanas. Howbeit I have done with that bird-lime to the human race, viscarium Diaboli, as old St. Ambrose has it.

Exeter, March 15, 1834.

I sent Head a sample of my wares, to see if the article would do for the public. He is a learned, dry antiquarian; that is not exactly my line. You wish me to write an entertaining book (how easy!!), bagatella, with anecdotes on men and manners. Mores multorum vidit et urbes! A lady wished for scenery and sentiment. Heigho! true lovers’ knots and moonlight. I should wish to make a sort of Puchero, an olla Andaluça, a little dry vacca à la Cook (that cocinero has just turned out two volumes which I have sent for), a little chorizo [sausage] and jamon de las Alfujarras, with some good pepper, salsa [sauce] de Zandunga.