I had in a Cabinet two pieces of hard waxe, in the hold of the ship both melted and clave together; and the Cement of that Cabinet, that was made to hold the Inke, melted and became flat.
So that finding the Ayer so torridly hot, I thought good to make triall of the water; and I leapt into the sea, which appeared to my sense no more colder than the Ayer; than the Queens bath (at Bathe) is hotter in June here in England.
At the bottome, or inward part of the Pry, there appeared to us, a faire round rising hill, neere halfe the bredth of the Pry, not much unlike the How at Plimouth, with a valley on either side; And on the brow of the Hill towards the right hand, a very high and steep precipice of a rocke; in which stood the house of the Padre Vagado, fixt on the top of the rocke. A house fit enough for such a Master; for though he were the chiefe Commander of the Iland: yet by his port and house he kept he was more like a Hermite then a Governour. His familie consisting of a Mollotto of his own getting, three Negroes, a Fidler, and a Wench. Himselfe a man grave enough to be wise, but certainly of no great learning; for upon the differences between Bernardo and us, Colonel Modiford writ him a letter in Latin, which he did his best endeavour to answer but fell two bowes short in substance and language, and though his Quarrell were to us, yet he revenged himselfe on Priscian, whose head he broke 3 or 4 times in his letter.
The first time we saw him, was at his own house, by his own invitation: to which almost inaccessible habitation, when we had climed with infinite difficulty; and indeed so painfull and violent was our motion: (our leggs finding the motion of elevation, much more violent then of distention,) as we were almost scalded within, and the torrid heat of the Sun, being then our Zenith, did so scald us without, as we were in fitter condition to be fricased for the Padres dinner, then to eat any dinner our selves.
Being painfully and pipeing hot, arriv’d at this exalted mansion; we found none to entertaine us but Bernardo; whose countenance was not so well reconcil’d to himselfe, as to give us a hearty welcome. He told us that the Padre was gone forth about some affaires of the Iland, but would returne time enough to dinner. And whilst we were staying there, expecting his comming, we thought good not to be idle, for the structure of that Fabricke, did not minister to our eyes much of delight. Onely that it had a faier prospect to sea. So we walkt along upon that round hill, enquiring what we could of the place; and were inform’d that there had been formerly a very stately Town, beautified with faire buildings, and streets so contrived, as to make the best use of such a prospect; But burnt and demolisht by Sr Francis Drake, in the time of the warres, between Queen Elizabeth, and the King of Spaine, which made us give more reverence to the place; for that some of our Countreymen had there sacrificed their lives for the Honour of our Nation.
About the houre that our stomacks told us, it was full high time to pay Nature her due, we lookt about us, and perceived at a good distance, a horse comming towards us, with a man on his back, as hard as his heels could carry him; and within a very little time, made a sudden stop at the Padres house, from whose backe (being taken by two Negroes,) was set on the ground a great fat man, with a gowne on his back, his face not so black as to be counted a Molotto, yet I believe full out as black as the Knight of the Sunne; his eyes blacker if possible, and so far sunk into his head, as with a large pinne you might have prick’t them out in the nappe of his necke. Upon his a lighting we perceived him very much discomposed, for the pace he rid, was not his usuall manner of riding, as by our enquiry afterwards we understood; and that he very seldom rid at all, but his business having held him over long, caus’d him to take horse, who intended to come a foot; and being mounted, (and he none of the best horsemen,) was made subject to the wil of his horse; which being a Barbe, & very swift of foot, comming towards the place where he was kept, ranne with such violence, as it was a wonder his burthen had not been cast by the way; for the Horse having a bit in his month, and the stirrops being extreame short, as the manner of their riding there is, if he had ever checkt him with the bridle, that he had been put to bound, he had undoubtedly layd him on the ground. But the rider that thought of nothing more, then holding fast by the pummell with both handes, was miraculously preserv’d.
In this great discomposure, he was taken off by two Negroes, and set on his owne legs: but in such a trance, as for some minutes, he was not in a Condition to speake to us: So sensible an impression had the feare of falling made in him. But being at last come to himselfe, he made his addresse to us, and in his language bid us welcome, begining to excuse his too long stay: to redeeme which fault, he had put himselfe in such a hazard, as in his whole life he had not knowne the like. We answered, that it argued a great respect and civilitie to us, that he would expose his gravitie, which was accustomed to a moderate pace, to such a swiftnes of motion, as might in any kinde indanger his health, or hazard his person. But he being a man much reserv’d, and slow of language, said no more; but brought us into his house; which was upon a Levell at the entrance, but the other side of the Rooms a steep precipice, and some of the roomes like galleries such as are in the meanest Innes upon London-way. There were not in the house above 4 roomes, besides two galleries and a Kitchin; and those all on a flower; and the flowers of earth, not so much as made Levell, nor soeeven as to deserve sweeping; and the most of them were justly dealt withall: for they had no more then they deserv’d, both above and below; for the Cobwebs serv’d for hangings, and frying pans and gred-irons for pictures.
By this equipage, you may guesse what the trading is of this Iland, when the Governour is thus accoutred; but by and by, a Cloath was layde, of Calico, with 4 or 5 Napkins of the same, to serve a dozen men. The first Course was set on the table, usherd in by the Padre himselfe, (Bernardo, the Mollotto, and Negroes following after,) with every one a dish of fruite, 6 in all; the first was Milons, Plantines the second, the third Bonanos, the 4 of Guavers, the 5 of Prickled Peares, the 6 the Custard Apple: but to fill up the table, and make the feast yet more sumptuous, the Padre sent his Mollotto, into his own Chamber, for a dish which he reserv’d for the Close of all the rest; Three Pines in a dish, which were the first that ever I had seene, and as farre beyond the best fruite that growes in England, as the best Abricot is beyond the worst Slow or Crab.
Having well refresht our selves with these excellent fruites, we dranke a glasse or two of Red Sack; a kinde of wine growing in the Maderas; verie strong, but not verie pleasant; for in this Iland, there is made noe wine at all; nor as I thinke any of grapes, so neere the Line upon Ilands in all the world. Having made an end of our fruite, the dishes were taken away, and another Course fetcht in; which was of flesh, fish, and sallets; the sallets being first plac’t upon the table; which I tooke great heed of, being all Novelties to me, but the best and most savourie herbs that ever I tasted, verie well season’d with salt, Oyle, and the best vinagre. Severall sorts we had, but not mixt, but in severall dishes, all strange, and all excellent. The first dish of flesh, was a leg of young sturke, or a wilde Calfe, of a yeare old; which was of the Colour of stags flesh, and tasted very like it, full of Nerves and sinewes, strong meat and very well Condited: boyld tender, and the sauce of savorie herbes, with Spanish Vinagre. Turkyes and Hens we had roasted; a gigget of young goate, fish in abundance of severall kindes, whose names I have forgotten, Snappers, grey and red; Cavallos, Carpions, &c: with others of rare colours and shapes, too many to be named in this leafe; some fryed in oyle, and eaten hot, some souc’t, some marinated: of all these we tasted, and were much delighted.
Dinner being neere halfe done, (the Padre, Bernardo, and the other black atendants, waiting on us;) in comes an old fellow, whose complexion was raised out of the red Sack; for neare that Colour it was: his head and beard milke white, his Countenance bold and Cheerfull, a Lute in his hand, and plaide us for a Noveltie, The Passame sares galiard; a tune in great esteeme, in Harry the fourths dayes; for when Sir John Falstaff makes his Amours to Mistresse Doll Tear-sheet, Sneake and his Companie, the admired fidlers of that age, playes this tune, which put a thought into my head, that if time and tune be the Composits of Musicke, what a long time this tune had in sayling from England to this place. But we being sufficiently satisfied with this kind of harmonie, desired a song; which he performed in as Antique a manner; both savouring much of Antiquitie; no Graces, double relishes, Trillos, Groppos or Piano Forte’s, but plaine as a packstaffe; his Lute too, was but of tenne strings, and that was in fashion in King Davids dayes; soe that the raritie of this Antique piece, pleas’d me beyond measure.