Our attention was first attracted by the magnificent new Greek church, built of white bricks, with its golden cupola and lofty, detached campanile. The church faces the “Bristol,” and behind it are the beautiful public gardens, which claimed a full share of our admiration. We also visited several of the fine old Catholic churches, including the famous cathedral. The striking and lofty monument to the Polish King Sigismund, as well as the fine statue of the astronomer Copernicus, were likewise inspected and admired. Perhaps, however, the portion of the city which chiefly impressed us was the fine old market-place, with its irregular, picturesque buildings, its numerous stalls, and the people of diverse nationalities by whom it was thronged, all busy in either buying or selling.
THE BIG LAKE IN PILAWIN.
By good luck, we also enjoyed the opportunity of seeing one of the Czar’s Tcherkess cavalry regiments marching through the city; the sable uniforms and tall black astrachan papakhas (busbies) of the troopers forming a striking contrast to the white jackets of the Cossacks, who are to be seen everywhere in the streets.
EUROPEAN BISON IN THE OPEN.
After returning to our hotel, by 3.30 P.M. we were on our way to Terespol station, the terminus of the Kieff line, which we had to leave for Schepetowka, our destination, at five o’clock. We were somewhat delayed on our way by a great crush of vehicles at the bridge over the Vistula; and owing to the crowd of passengers at the station itself, taking tickets and registering the baggage was no easy matter; but it was eventually accomplished (by the hotel porter), and we were soon comfortably established in a sleeping compartment of the train ready for the start.
Here a word may be said in commendation of the railway service in this part of the Russian Empire; that is to say, when you are once in the train. The first-class sleeping compartments are comfortable and convenient; the cuisine is excellent; and the attendants are civil, attentive, and expert at interpreting the wants of those passengers to whom Russian and Polish are unknown tongues. Punctuality is, however, a virtue which on some occasions might be more cultivated.
At 5.10 A.M. on Thursday (only ten minutes behind our scheduled time) we reached Schepetowka station, where we found an open carriage, drawn by four horses abreast, in waiting; and in five minutes we were on our way to Antoniny, the country seat of the Count and Countess Potocki. Small strongly-built phaetons with varnished wood-work are used for travelling. They are built at Vienna, and can be driven either with a four-in-hand or four abreast. A four-horse team is always kept ready at each changing-station. When travelling at night a smaller vehicle goes in front with torches. For baggage a second carriage is provided.
