In the night, between the 29th to the 30th, we crossed the parallel of the sun's declination, upon which the direction of our shadows, already for several days scarcely perceptible, was of course changed from north to south.
We soon crossed the belt of the north-eastern trade-wind, as we made daily from 180 to 200 miles. On the 3rd of July the wind became very unsteady, and on the 5th, in 8° 30′ N. Lat. and 29° 30′ W. Long., it entirely left us. The sky often became dark and threatening; indeed, its aspect changed at times with surprising rapidity, without any particular disturbance in the direction or strength of the wind; nor had we to complain of as much rain as might have been expected in these regions.
The calms in the so-called "belt of calms" were fortunately not of long duration, for in 6° 43′ N., and 28° 49′ W., a fresh south-east wind sprang up. When we came within the influence of the south-east trade-wind, we endeavoured to approach the coast of South America, for the purpose of observing the currents in that latitude, this being one of the investigations suggested by the letter of instructions drawn up by Alexander v. Humboldt. The great oceanic stream, which, on leaving the western coast of Africa takes a westerly direction, is divided by the projecting American Continent into two branches, of which the stronger turns N.W. towards the Caribean Sea, while the weaker moves south-west along the coast of Brazil.
We had already felt its influence whilst in the zone of calms, and it became still more perceptible the more the equator was approached. The continuance of the south-easterly trade forced us to cross the Line at a more westerly point than usual. This, however, causes no disadvantage to a good sailing ship; nay, Commander Maury has proved indisputably that ships make extremely short passages, which reach the Equator so far to the west that they run a risk of hugging the coast too closely. Those on the other hand, which, from over-anxiety to avoid the current, keep too far to the east, lose much time, being compelled to pass weeks in the zone of calms, which increases in breadth towards the east, whereas the others come very little in contact with it, and avail themselves of the changes of wind near the shore, to double the Cape of St. Roque on the American coast, so much dreaded by the former. We cannot here forbear expressing our high admiration of the great merits of Mr. Maury, whose classical work on the physical geography of the sea, as well as his inestimable wind and current charts, deserve the especial attention of all who navigate these seas.
The nearer we approached the Line, the more striking became the aspect of the southern constellations. The light of the northern polar star grew fainter and fainter, its altitude diminished, and it at length entirely disappeared. But, on the other hand, the Southern Cross, the Magellan clouds, the ship Argo on the "coal-bags," or starless, dark spots of the southern hemisphere, became more elevated in proportion as the northern sky moved away, and for a moment we felt some difficulty in recognizing our old acquaintances of the northern hemisphere in their relation to the new stars.
On the 15th, at 3 a. m., we crossed the Line in 33° 50′ W.L. This event, which with all sailors forms a marked epoch in their seafaring life, had in this case the additional feature of being actually the first occasion of an Austrian man-of-war entering the southern hemisphere, and our crew, who had long before enjoyed, in anticipation, the merriment to which it would give occasion, had commenced the ceremony the preceding evening. Neptune, accompanied by an appropriate retinue of mermaids, tritons, and nereids, appeared at sunset, to announce with the utmost gravity to the Commodore, in a set speech, the astounding news that the vessel was entering his dominions, demonstrating the fact mathematically by an immense sextant, a chart, and pair of compasses a yard long, all manufactured by the ship's carpenter, and claiming his right to see the act of shaving and baptizing properly performed on all those who for the first time came into his kingdom. Amidst streams of water from the masts and fire-engines he made his exit down the rope ladder in a blaze of blue fire, followed by an ignited tar-barrel, which floated along like a globe of fire on the mirror-like surface of the sea.
The real farce, however, took place the next afternoon, when Neptune re-appeared, accompanied this time by his good lady and a hopeful youth, all decked out in real sea-god-like attire, in a car drawn by six tritons, still accompanied by his farcical retinue blowing a flourish on their bugles, when, after a second set speech to the Commodore, the great ruler of the waves declared that the ceremony was now to begin.
Every sailor was obliged, whether he would or no, to undergo a lathering with a nasty mixture of tar and grease, and submit to be scraped by an immense tin razor; which operation being performed, the unfortunate sufferer was thrown into a sail suspended by its four corners, and there deluged from head to foot from pails, pumps, hose, pots, dishes, and everything else that would hold water. The officers and other gentlemen escaped the ordeal by a contribution in money or wine towards the festivities.
When the greater part of the sailors had undergone this process, and the scene, amidst formidable gushes of water, rioting, uproar, and excitement, had reached its highest point, behold! a voice thundered from the quarter-deck the words "two o'clock," and everything resumed its wonted aspect.
Though the Line had been crossed at a more westerly point than usual, we were able, in the night from the 18th to the 19th of July, to pass easterly between the rocks Las Roccas and the island of Fernando da Noronha.[34] On the 20th July we were carried again by unfavourable winds to a distance of 100 miles from the Brazilian coast, where we parted from our faithful companion, the Caroline. She sailed for Pernambuco, whilst we kept out to sea in order to continue the observations on the westerly currents, and be able freely to double Cape St. Augustin. Bad weather, showers, and heavy swells prevented complete success in our task; it was, however, ascertained that the current close to the land is not so strong as at some distance from it, and that the extreme point of divergence is, at this particular season of the year, somewhat east of the south point of Fernando de Noronha. In the angle formed by the direction of the two currents between the point of division and the land, partial currents (according to circumstances and the strength of the wind), run towards one or the other side, of which the stronger tends towards the north-west.