In consequence of these recent epidemic attacks, much greater attention than formerly has of late been paid to the cleanliness of the capital of the Brazilian empire, though a great deal has yet to be done in this respect. Rio used to be, without exception, the dirtiest city in the world. As there were neither gutters nor sewers, all impurities accumulated during the twenty-four hours used, towards evening, to be carried by negroes on their heads, in pails and casks, to the bay, and, singularly enough, emptied in the immediate vicinity of the Imperial palace, whereby several quarters of the city, particularly in the hot season, were rendered entirely uninhabitable. The execution of proper drainage and sewerage works in a city such as Rio, which lies on a flat and is densely built near the water, must be at all times attended with a very large expenditure of money. But who would boggle at any amount for an object which concerns the bodily health, not merely of the present, but of all succeeding generations? At the period of our visit, the Government had entered into a contract with Messrs. Joaquim Pereira de Lima and J. F. Russell, by which, in consideration of a lease for ninety years of certain taxes specially levied, the two contractors have undertaken to introduce into the capital of Brazil a system of harbour and street purification, similar to that which has long been in general use throughout England. There had also been lately started a Companhia Reformadora, having for object the widening and beautifying of certain streets, and the improvement of the paving. One must have lived in Rio, where each street and open square is a hotbed of fever and sickness, to be able aright to estimate the importance of the two last-named associations.
A war steamer was, by the command of H.M. the Emperor of Brazil, placed at our disposal, to afford us an opportunity of viewing more closely the most beautiful points in the magnificent bay of Rio. There were on board with us the Captain of the Port, Dom Francisco de Perura Pinto, the captains of the Brazilian men-of-war lying in the harbour, as also several members of the Historico-Geographical Institute. A military band enlivened the party by playing national airs during the day. We first visited the south-east part of the bay at the villages of San Domingo and Ponta da Armacao, opposite to Ponta da Aréa, whence steamers, for navigating the bay and adjoining coast, are run by an English company, which employs 667 hands, (of whom 298 are foreigners, 207 natives, and 162 negro slaves). Except a part of the funds advanced by native capitalists, the whole undertaking is carried out by foreigners. England furnishes the engineers and machinery, whilst the requisite timber is brought from Norway and North America. The value of the labour employed during 1856 amounted to nearly £90,000.—We proceeded hence past the islands of Salinas and Honorio, and between the island of Baretto and the eastern shore of the bay, as far as the luxuriant island of Paquetá, on the lovely shores of which we landed. It has a circumference of five miles, and is inhabited by 16,000 persons, who convert shells into chalk; nearly all the houses on shore are chalk-kilns. During the dry season this island is the favourite Sunday resort of the fluminenses, as the Rio de Janeirians delight to call themselves. From this sweet spot the steamer carried us to the north side of the bay. In the back-ground, the Organos mountains now appeared in all the majesty of their imposing outline, whilst on one of the projecting ridges, the church San Francisco de Croara forms an extremely picturesque object.
ISLAND OF PAQUITÀ, BAY OF RIO.
The more the northern portion of the bay is approached, the more romantic becomes the panorama of the mountains: from this point stand out in their full grandeur the Serra da Estrella, the Serra da Tinguá (which is currently believed to be the highest mountain, not merely on the bay, but in Brazil), then the deep valley of Santa Cruz, next to which the mountain-chains of Suaratyba, and the Serra de Iguassoú, rise majestically, melting away into the charming Tejuca chain, the Gavia, and the world-renowned Corcovado, whilst the Sugar Loaf, that gigantic guardian at the entrance of the harbour, splendidly terminates this magnificent amphitheatre.
We passed the largest of the islands in the bay, the Ilha do Governador, which has a circumference of upwards of seven miles, and is inhabited by about a hundred persons chiefly employed in the chalk-kilns, sail-cloth and soap manufactories; and touched at some wild spots that promised a harvest for our naturalists. Here and there, from the deep blue waters, sprang up islands of the most luxuriant vegetation, like tropical idylls of rock and forest, such as the eye marvels to rest upon, but the pen refuses to describe. Indelibly impressed on our minds remains in this respect the lovely islet of Catalán, with its beautiful flowers and palms.
On approaching the capital, towards the east of the bay, passing the island Bom Jesus, with a magnificent Franciscan monastery, and the Ponta do Cajù, with charming country seats, a forest of masts, strikes the eye in bold contrast with the Sugar Loaf in the east, and the Morro de Viracao and the fort Pico in the west, which covers the position of Santa Cruz. Unfortunately we went down, just at this point, to a splendid banquet, etiquette requiring that we should exchange the quarter-deck for the state-room; for in Brazil also, upon such occasions, meals and speechifying play an important part, and greatly prejudice the special object of travel—the enjoyment of nature.
We were not yet done, however, with our excursion. Again we turned towards the beautiful Cove of Jurujuba, where on the shore lay pretty little cottages embowered in the richest foliage, while, through a deep depression, appeared the masts of ships which were still on the bosom of the ocean outside, on the point of entering the harbour. As the vessel steamed in, the scenery changed character at every moment, like a fairy landscape, full of the loveliest, most enchanting glimpses of the surrounding country. At Jurujuba, we landed to visit the Hospital Maritimo de S. Isabel, erected in 1853, for the reception of sailors in ill-health of all nations and creeds. It proved of immense utility during the prevalence of epidemics. In the five years of its existence at the period of our visit, there had been admitted nearly 6000 cases of yellow fever.[41] For the excellent management of this fine hospital the utmost credit is due to the physicians in charge, Dr. Bento Maria da Costa, and Dr. José Teixeira da Souza.
[41] In the year 1856, 2452 patients were received into the hospital at Jurujuba Cove, of whom 175 died, 2195 were dismissed cured, and 82 remained under treatment. By comparison with former years, the number of sick seemed to have fallen off 13 per cent., while the expenses of management had increased 9 per cent.