Trieste, 18th March, 1861.


CONTENTS.

[CHAPTER I.]
PREPARATIONS FOR THE VOYAGE.
PAGE
Approval of the Plan to fit out an Austrian Man-of-War for aVoyage round the World.—Object of theExpedition.—Appointment of a ScientificCommission.—Preparations.—Fitting out the Frigate Novaraat Pola.—Departure for Trieste.—Visit of the ArchdukeFerdinand Maximilian on board.[1]
[CHAPTER II.]
FROM TRIESTE TO GIBRALTAR.
Departure.—Fair Voyage down the Adriatic.—A Man lost andfound again.—Passage through the Straits of Messina.—TheSteamer Sta. Lucia returns to Trieste.—Regulations andInstructions for further Proceedings.—A Day on Board theNovara.—Sunrise.—Cleaning the Ship.—Mental and PhysicalOccupation.—Moonlight at Sea.[11]
[CHAPTER III.]
GIBRALTAR.
Political Significance of the Rock.—Courtesy of the BritishAuthorities.—Fortifications.—Signal Stations.—The onlyPlace in Europe frequented by Monkeys.—CalcareousCaves.—Chief Entrances into the Town.—Shutting the TownGates.—Public Establishments.—Inhabitants.—Elliott'sGardens.—The Isthmus, or NeutralGround.—Algeziras.—Ceuta.—Commerce andNavigation.—Excellent Regulation in the English Navyrelative to Officers' Outfit.—Small-pox appears on boardthe Caroline.—Departure from Gibraltar.—A FataMorgana.—The Novara passes the Straits.—Takes leave ofEurope.—Voyage to Madeira.—Floating Bottles to ascertainthe Currents.—Arrival in the Roads of Funchal.[29]
[CHAPTER IV.]
MADEIRA.
First Impressions.—Difficulty in Landing.—Description ofthe Island.—History.—Unfavourable Political Circumstancesconnected with the Cultivation of theGround.—Aqueducts.—First Planting of theSugar-cane.—Culture of the Vine.—Its Disease andDecay.—Cochineal as a Compensation for its Loss.—Prospectsof Success.—Climate.—A favourable Winter Residence for theConsumptive.—Strangers.—First Appearance of theCholera.—Observations with the Ozonometer.—Great Distressamong the Lower Classes.—Liberal Assistance fromEngland.—Decline of Commerce.—Inhabitants and their Modeof Life.—Decrease of the Population, and itsCauses.—Benevolent Institutions.—Public Libraries.—TheCathedral.—Barracks.—Prison.—Environs ofFunchal.—Excursion to St. Anna.—Ascent of the PicoRuivo.—Singular Sledge Party.—Return toFunchal.—Departure.[58]
[CHAPTER V.]
RIO DE JANEIRO.
Brazil the Land of Contrasts.—Appearance of the City of Rioand its Environs.—Excursion to the Peak of Corcovado, andthe Tejuca Waterfalls.—Germans in Rio.—Brazilian LiteraryMen.—Assacú (Hura Brasiliensis.)—Snake-bite as anAntidote against Leprosy.—Public Institutions.—Negroes ofthe Mozambique Coast.—The House of Misericordia.—LunaticAsylum.—Botanical Garden.—PublicInstruction.—Historico-Geographical Institution.—PalæstraScientifica.—Military Academy.—Library.—Conservatory ofMusic.—Sanitary Police.—Yellow Fever and Cholera.—WaterParty on the Bay.—Chamber ofDeputies.—Petropolis.—Condition of the SlavePopulation.—Prospects of German Emigration.—Suitability ofBrazil as a Market for German Commerce.—Natural Products,and Exchange of Manufactures.—Audience of the Emperor andEmpress.—Extravagant Waste of Powder for Salvoes.—Songs ofthe Sailors.—Departure from Rio.—Retrospect.—South-eastTrades.—Cape Pigeons.—Albatrosses—Cape Tormentoso.—AStorm at the Cape.—Various Methods of Measuring the Heightof Waves.—Arrival in Simon's Bay.[121]
[CHAPTER VI.]
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
Contrasts of Scenery and Seasons at Cape Colony.—Ramblethrough Simon's Town.—Malay Population.—The Toad-fish, orSea-devil.—Rondebosch and its delightful Scenery.—CapeTown.—Influence of the English Element.—Scientific andother Institutions.—Botanical Gardens.—UsefulPlants.—Foreign Emigration.—A Caffre Prophet and theConsequences of his Prophecies.—Caffre Prisoners in theArmstrong Battery.—Five young Caffres take Service asSailors on Board the Novara.—Trip into theInterior.—Stellenbosch.—Paarl.—Worcester.—BrandVley.—The Mission of Moravian Brethren atGenaadendal.—Masticatories and intoxicating Substancesused by the Hottentots.—Caledon.—SomersetWest.—Zandvliet.—Tomb of a Malay Prophet.—HorseSickness.—Tsetse-fly.—Vineyards of Constantia.—FêteChampétre in Honour of the Novara.—Excursion to theactual Cape of Good Hope.—Departure.—A Lifesaved.—Experiments with Brook's Deep-sea SoundingApparatus.—Arrival at the Island of St. Paul in the SouthIndian Ocean.[196]
[CHAPTER VII.]
THE ISLANDS OF ST. PAUL AND AMSTERDAM, IN THE SOUTH INDIANOCEAN.
Former History.—Importance of the Situation of St.Paul.—Present Inhabitants.—Preliminary Observations.—Towhom do the Islands belong?—Fisheries.—Hotsprings.—SingularExperiment.—Penguins.—Disembarkation.—InclementWeather.—Remarks on the Climate of the Island.—Cultivationof European Vegetables.—Animal Life.—Library in aFisherman's Hut.—Narrative of oldViot.—Re-embarkation.—An official Document leftbehind.—Some Results obtained during the Stay of theExpedition.—Visit to the Island ofAmsterdam.—Whalers.—Search for a Landing-place.—Remarkson the Natural History of the Islands.—AConflagration.—Comparison of the Two Islands.—ARencontre at Sea.—Trade-wind.—Christmas at Sea.—"A manoverboard!"—Cingalese Canoe.—Arrival at Point de Galle, inCeylon.[267]
[CHAPTER VIII.]
CEYLON.
Neglect of the Island hitherto by the EnglishGovernment.—Better Prospects for the Future.—TheCingalese, their Language and Customs.—Buddhism and itsOrdinances.—Visit to a Buddhist Temple in the Vicinity ofGalle.—The sacred Bo-tree.—Other Aborigines ofCeylon.—The Weddàhs.—Traditions as to their Origin.—Galleas a City and Harbour.—Snake-charmers.—Departure forColombo.—Cultivation of the Cocoa-nut Palm a benevolent,Buddha-pleasing work.—Polyandria; or, Community ofHusbands—Supposed Origin.—Annual Exportation ofCocoa-nuts.—Rest-houses for Travellers.—Curry the nationalDish.—A Misfortune and its Consequences.—The CatholicMission of St. Sebastian de Makùn, and FatherMiliani.—Annoying Delays with restive Horses.—Colombo.—AStroll through the "Pettah," or Black Town.—Ice Trade ofthe Americans with Tropical Countries.—Cinnamon Gardens andCinnamon Cultivation.—Consequences of the Monopoly ofCinnamon.—Rise and Expansion of the Coffee Culture inCeylon.—Pearl-fishery.—Latest Examination of the CeylonBanks of Pearl Oysters, by Dr. Kelaart, and itsResults.—Aripo at the Season of Pearl-fishing.—TheDivers.—Pearl-lime, a chewing Substance of wealthyMalays.—Annual Profit of the Pearl-fishery.—Origin of thePearl.—Poetry and Natural Science.—Artificial Productionof the Pearl.—The Chank-shell.—The Wealth of Ceylon inPrecious Stones.—Visit to a Cocoa-nut Oil Manufactory.—TheCowry-shell, a Promoter of the Slave Trade.—Discovery ofvaluable Cingalese MSS. on Palm-leaves.—The heroic Poem of"Mahawanso," and Turnour's English Translation ofit.—Hospitality of English Officials in Colombo.—A secondVisit to Father Miliani.—Agreeable Reception.—TheAntidote-oil against Bites of Poisonous Snakes.—Adventureson the Journey back to Galle.—Ascent of Adam's Peak by twoMembers of the Expedition.—The SacredFootprint.—Descent.—The "Bullock-bandy," or NativeWaggon.—Departure from Galle for Madras.—The Bassos(Shallows).—A Berlin Rope-dancer among thePassengers.—Nyctalopia; or, Night Blindness.—Fire onBoard.—Arrival in Madras Roads.[345]
[CHAPTER IX.]
MADRAS.
"Catamarans" and "Masuli" Boats.—Difficulty ofDisembarkation, and Plans for remedyingit.—History.—Brahminism.—Festival in Honour ofVishnù.—Employment of Heathens under a ChristianGovernment.—Politics and Religion.—Laws of BrahminicFaith.—The Observatory.—Museum of Natural History andZoological Garden.—Academy of Fine Arts.—MedicalSchool.—Infirmary.—Orphan Asylum.—Dr. Bell.—LancastrianMethod of Teaching Children first Applied inMadras.—Colonel Mackenzie's Collection of IndianInscriptions and MSS.—The Palace of the former Nabob of theCoromandel Coast.—Journey by Rail to Vellore.—Féte givenby the Governor in Guindy Park.—Visit to the MonolithicMonuments of Mahamalaipuram.—Excursion to PulicatLake.—Madras Club.—Féte in Honour of the Members of theNovara Expedition.—"Tiffin" and Dance onBoard.—Departure from Madras.—Zodiacal Light.—ShroveTuesday in the Tropics.—Arrival at the Island ofKar-Nicobar.[424]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

VOL. I.

page
[The Track Of The Austrian Imperial Frigate Novara.]frontispiece
[Letter.][iii]
[Letter Continued.][iv]
[Letter.][xvi]
[Departure.][1]
[Gun-room of the Novara.][4]
[Plate: Vertical Section of the Frigate "Novara".][7]
[Geodetical and Astronomical Instruments.][10]
[Look-out Man.][11]
[Track from Triest To Madeira.][11]
["Palinurus".][16]
[Seamen off duty.][21]
[View of Gibraltar from Seaward.][28]
[Rock of Gibraltar.][29]
[Rock Cavern in Gibraltar.][34]
[South Gate, Gibraltar.][38]
[Inhabitant of Frangola.][47]
[Cape Trafalgar.][52]
[Loo Rock (Madeira).][57]
[Scene in Madeira.][58]
[Bridge over the Ribeiro Seco.][70]
[Carapuça, or Cap worn by the Natives of Madeira.][91]
[Cathedral of Madeira.][95]
[Sleigh party in Madeira.][97]
[Village of Fayal.][99]
["El Homem em pié".][101]
[Erica Trees.][103]
[Track From Madeira to Rio Di Janeiro.][107]
[Cape Frio.][120]
[The Quay at Rio.][121]
[Island of Paquità, Bay of Rio.][156]
[Track from Rio Di Janeiro to the Cape Of Good Hope.][182]
[Cabo Tormentoso.][195]
[Cape Town.][196]
[Rifle Volunteer Fête at Stellenbosch.][217]
[Paine's Kloef as it was.][220]
[Paine's Kloef as it is.][220]
[Crossing the Breede River.]226
[Hot Springs of Brand Vley.][227]
[Hottentot Huts at Genaadendal.][233]
[Church and Mission Houses of the Moravian Settlement
at Genaadendal.]
[237]
[Tomb of a Malay Prophet at Zandvliet.][245]
[Interior of the Mausoleum.][246]
[Tsetse Fly.][252]
[Track from the Cape Of Good Hope to St. Paul's Island.][259]
[Arrival at St. Paul.][266]
[View of St. Paul.][267]
[Distant view of Crater-Basin of St. Paul.][275]
[Rainy day at St. Paul.][300]
[Track from St. Paul to Point De Galle (Ceylon).][309]
[Cingalese Canoe.][344]
[View of Adam's Peak from Colombo.][345]
[Buddha Temple near Galle.][353]
[Interior of a House at Galle.][359]
[Track from Point De Galle To Madras.][418]
[Masuli Boat at Madras.][423]
[View of Madras (and Proposed Pier).][424]
[The Holy Mountain.][458]
[The god Ganeza.][461]
[Bivouac at Mahamalaipuran.][464]
[Bas-relief on one of the Monolith Temples.][467]
[Entrance to One of the Temples.][470]
[Track from Madras to the Nicobar Islands.][480]
[Arrival at Kar-Nicobar.][482]