6. Almuce. Distinctive of masters and doctors, distinct from the hood. Another possible origin of the English hood.
7. Cope. There were two kinds of cope in use at the English universities—the cappa manicata or sleeved cope; and an uncomfortable contrivance called the cappa clausa, which was sewn all the way up, passed over the head when put on, and was not provided with sleeves or other openings for the arms save a short longitudinal slit in front. The Archbishop of Canterbury prescribed this as a decent garb for Archdeacons, Deans and Prebendaries in 1222. Regents in arts, laws, and theology were permitted to lecture in a cappa clausa or pallium only. The cappa manicata was probably worn generally, as being a sober and dignified dress; it very rarely occurs in contemporary representations.
8. The tabard or colobium was a sleeveless gown closed in front; but ultimately it was slit up, the sleeves of the gown proper were transferred to it, and the use of the latter discontinued. All not yet bachelors were required by the statutes of Trinity Hall, Cambridge (1352), to wear long tabards, while Clare Hall, the adjoining foundation, required its Master (Head), masters, and Bachelor Fellows to wear this and other robes, in 1359. Kings' Hall (1380) required every scholar to wear a roba talaris, and every bachelor a robe with tabard suited to his degree.
9. University Head-dress. A skull-cap was early allowed to ecclesiastics to protect the tonsured head in cold weather, and, except the ordinary hood, this is the only head-dress recognised by the early university statutes. This pileus, however, soon assumed a pointed shape, thus
, and in this form was recognised as part of the insignia of the doctorate; doctors only are represented wearing it upon monuments. The central point developed afterwards into the modern tassel. Bachelors wore no official head-dress.
[104] So Bonanni's text; it reaches to the feet in his plate.
[105] Cit. ap. Bonanni, vol. iv, No. xvii: Quidam enim subtile integrum cum manicis integris habent, quidam autem deferunt hanc lineam vestem in formam longi et lati scapularis sine manicis in lateribus apertam quidam circa tibia ad latitudinem palmae Carthusiensium more consutam, alii scapulare latum cum rugis habent aliis est forma parvi scapularis et brevis cum rugis et plicis e collo pendentis quod Scorligium dicunt quibusdam ex latere linea hasta aliis arca collum pecia linea.