XIII. The ἐγκόλπιον is a pectoral cross, worn in the East, and similar in all respects to the cross worn in the West.
XIV. The σάκκος is the equivalent of the Western dalmatic: it is now worn by all metropolitans.
The Armenian vestments which have not been described in the above conspectus are (i) the sagavard, or priest's cap; (ii) the vakass, a vestment which corresponds to the Western amice, and is nowhere else worn in the East. It differs from it in the collar standing upright instead of being turned down. Attached to the vakass of high dignitaries is a breastplate of precious metals and stones, bearing the names of the twelve apostles. This is as obviously borrowed from the Jewish 'breastplate of the Ephod,' as the vakass itself is borrowed from the Western amice; but the Armenians deny any Western influence in the dress, asserting the entire vestment to be of Jewish origin; (iii) the shoochar, which answers in every respect to the cope; and (iv) the sandals, which are worn during service, are kept in the church, and may not be used on other occasions.
Vartabeds (i.e., priests especially entrusted with the work of preaching and instructing the ignorant in the principles of the religion) and bishops substitute a mitre for the sagavard, and wear a pectoral cross hanging by a gold chain round the neck. The copes of bishops are ornamented by two strips of brocade, usually embroidered with figures of saints; these are survivals of the infulae of the mitre, but are attached to the shoulder of the cope. Vartabeds are distinguished by a staff of which the head consists of a cross with two serpents turned round it.
The Armenian Church permits clergy to remain married if the marriage hath taken place before ordination. The ordinary dress of unmarried priests consists of a black or dark purple cassock with a broad belt, over which is worn a gown, and (at the recital of the offices) a cope. In Persia and Armenia they wear a cap with fur border called the kulpas. Married priests wear a blue cassock, a black gown, and a blue turban.
The vestments of the Nestorian Church are perhaps the simplest of the forms of dress in vogue in the various non-reformed Churches. They are six in number, and are respectively called the prazôna, peena, zunnâra, hurrâra, estla or shorshippa, and msâne. These correspond respectively to breeches, surplice, or alb, girdle, stole, chasuble, and shoes, but they differ in some degree from the analogous vestments in use elsewhere. They are all made of white linen or calico, the only colour employed being in the girdle and stole, which (to use the convenient heraldic terms) are checky in squares white and blue, bearing crosses of the same colours counter-changed. The chasuble, too, has a Latin cross worked on the back. The latter is a clumsy vestment, being simply a square cloth, thrown over the shoulders and held in position with the finger and thumb. The stole does not reach below the waist, and is kept in its place under the girdle. It is remarkable that the vestments of the different orders of clergy differ only in the quality of the material, and not in elaboration or form; and that they are, as a general rule, only worn during the celebration of the Holy Eucharist or the administration of Baptism. At other services the priests usually wear their ordinary costume, which differs only slightly from that of laymen.
The following list will show the parallelism existing between the vestments of the East and of the West; it is useful as showing that the differences between them consist entirely in matters of detail, and not in essentials:
- [vakass] = amice.
- στοιχάριον = alb.
- ἐπιμανίκια = maniple.
- ἐπιτραχήλιον⎱= stole.
- ὠράριον⎰
- ζώνη = girdle.
- φαινόλιον = chasuble.
- ἐπιγονάτιον may be compared with appendages of subcingulum.
- ὠμοφόριον = pall.
- μάνδυας = cope, approximately.
- χαμαλαύχη⎱= mitre, approximately.
- ἐξωχαμαλαύχη⎰
- πατέρεσσα = pastoral staff.
- ἐγκόλπιον = pectoral cross.
- σάκκος = dalmatic
Thus, the ἐπιγονάτιον, μάνδυας, χαμαλαύχη, and ἐξωχαμαλαύχη have no exact equivalent in the West; while, on the other hand, the amice is only represented in one provincial church, and the tunicle, dalmatic, gloves, ring, stockings and sandals, have no Eastern vestments to correspond with them. This is just what we might expect, for these vestments are all, comparatively speaking, of mediaeval invention or application, and the Eastern Church, as we said in other words at the commencement of this chapter, preserves many of the primitive rites and usages in a condition much less altered by time than does its Western sister.
[88] 'Patrol. Graec.,' xxv, 358.