In this method of grafting, the scion is not separated from the parent plant until it is firmly united with the stock; consequently, they must stand contiguously. We intend the following method to apply directly to Caméllias, as they are the principal plants in the Green-house that are thus worked. The criterion for the operation is, just as the plants begin to grow, either in spring or mid-summer. Place the stock contiguous to the plant where the graft or enarch is to be taken from. If the branches, where the intended union is to take place, do not grow at equal heights, a slight stage may be erected to elevate the pot that holds the lower. Take the branch that is to be enarched, (the wood of last or previous year is the most proper,) and bring it in contact with the stock; mark the parts where they are to unite, so as to form a pointed arch. In that part of the branch which is to rest against the stock, pare off the bark and part of the wood to about two or three inches in length, and in the side of the stock which is to receive the graft, do the same, that the inside rind of each may be exactly opposite, which is the first part where a union will take place. Bind them firmly and neatly together with strands of Russia matting, and protect the joint from the air by a coat of close composition; clay of the consistency of thick paint, turpentine, or wax, will equally answer. Finish by fastening the grafted branch to the head of the stock or a rod. Many practitioners make a slit or tongue into the enarch and stock, but we find it unnecessary, more tedious, and likewise more danger in breaking. Caméllias are also grafted, and budded, but these two operations require great experience and continued attention, and seldom prove so successful as enarching. When they have perfectly taken, which will be after the first growth is over, begin to separate them by cutting the scion a little at three different periods, about a week apart, separating it at the third time. If the head is intended to be taken off the stock, do it in like manner after the second growth is over. By the above method, many kinds can be grown on the same stock. The same plan applies to all evergreens.
[Flower Garden.]
MARCH.
It is expected that all the pruning is finished. If not, get all expeditiously done, according to directions given in the preceding months, likewise all digging, and that which was dug in the autumn, point over, or half dig, that all may have a neat appearance. This must not be done when the ground is too much imbibed with moisture, as that would harden the soil. Break it well with the spade, leaving it one or two days before the surface is raked smooth, that all may be ready to receive the seeds or plants that are intended to be sown or planted. As soon as the frost is entirely gone, uncover all plants or shrubs that have been protected; preserving carefully such articles as will answer the same purpose next year. The frost disappears generally from the middle to the end of this month. Cut off all decayed shoots, or such as have been hurt by the frost. The Lagerstræmias will flower in greater perfection if they are cut closely; that is, where the wood of last year is cut to within a few eyes of the wood of the previous year, at the same time having regard to the shape that the plant is required to take. Cut off the injured part of any of the evergreens that have had their foliage much injured by the severity of winter, leaving the part that is green, which is essential to the support of these kinds of plants.
Such work as can be done in this month, should not be delayed, such as hoeing, digging, raking, and clearing away all decayed leaves, and litter of every description that have been brought or blown in the garden, during autumn or winter.
BOX EDGINGS
May be planted any time this month, or beginning of next, which in most seasons will be preferable. We will give a few simple directions how to accomplish the work. In the first place, dig over the ground deeply where the edging is intended to be planted, breaking the soil fine, and keeping it to a proper height, viz. about one inch higher than the side of the walk; but the taste of the operator will best decide according to the situation. Rake the surface even, and tread it down with the feet, or beat it with the spade. Where it gives most, continue to add, keeping the surface at the desired height. If the edging is to be in a direct line, either on a level or inclined plane, you may be correctly and simply regulated by making the desired level at each end of the line. Take three rods about four feet long each, having a piece of one foot to cross at one end, two of these pieces painted black, the other white. Have a black one at each end of the line on the level, take the white one for the centre, going along the line, and about every twenty feet, level a spot to the exact height, which will be seen by looking over the top of the rods from one end. Having found the level, drive in a peg to it, so that no mistake may occur; beat and level between them, leaving a smooth surface. This being done, strain the line, and with the spade proceed to cut out the trench perpendicularly on the side next the walk, six, eight, ten, or twelve inches deep, according to the length of the plants. Afterwards take the plants, and cut the tops even, with the knife or shears, at the same time shortening the roots. Then with the left hand next the line, plant forward, keeping the tops of the plants level, and from one to two inches above ground, keeping the plants close according to the required thickness. Put in the earth as you proceed, and tread it firm, then rake the surface even, and with the spade beat it smooth. If the weather sets in very dry, the box will be the better of a few waterings. Sometimes boxwood is planted without roots, but it seldom gives satisfaction; not growing equally.
TENDER ANNUALS.
When it is wished to have any of these flower early, if they were not sown as directed last month, on a hotbed, let it be done early in this. Those that were sown and now growing freely, must have plenty of air. In fine days the sashes may be taken off a few hours about mid-day; and where the plants are too thick, thin them out a few inches apart, that the air may circulate amongst them. Have another bed ready to transplant them into about the end of this or beginning of next month. When transplanted, sprinkle them with water, and shade them with mats from the sun, one or two days. By this treatment they will be much stronger for planting into the borders, about the first of May. For the different kinds, see list.