On Board the "Rocket"

by Robert C. Adams

Six days of this harassing work made me so desperate that I took advantage of a long continued squall to run in a dark night along the dangerous reefs, and guided only by the roar of the breakers gained a position, from which the next day we were able to work into Padang Roads and anchor inside of the beautiful Island "Pulo Pisang," or Banana Isle.

After safely anchoring at our long desired haven, a crew of native boatmen manned the bark's boat and pulled me to the town of Padang two miles distant. We rounded Apenberg, the hill to which its chattering monkeys have given a name, and ascended a river a short distance to the landing place.

When the preliminaries of business were transacted, my consignee kindly invited me to reside at his house, and I enjoyed the change from a cabin to a luxurious home. At day-light I visited the vessel, returning on shore after breakfast. The house was built of wood with wide verandahs in front and rear. Posts about six feet high supported it from the ground, leaving a space under the house for air to circulate, and rogues also as it proved; for a few weeks before my arrival a robbery occurred, and it is supposed, in this way. The thieves went under the house and bored holes in the floor of the sleeping room, through which they introduced the smoke obtained by burning the leaves of a narcotic plant. The inmate being stupefied, the thieves broke in at the front door, robbed the house and took away an iron safe that was chained to the bed of the sleeper. They were so sure of their work that they stopped in the garden to open the safe, but being unable to do this, they carried it to the beach and buried it in the sand, where it was found the next day with its contents intact, except a few small articles of jewelry, which the thieves had managed to shake out through a small opening they had made. New York or London could hardly surpass this. Many thought the house servants must have been abettors, as they were accustomed to sleep on the verandahs outside the thresholds of three entrances to the house, so that anyone entering must step over them. Nothing could be proved against them, and we repeatedly had occasion to step over their bodies at night and open the doors when returning at late hours, and at such times entrance was often effected without disturbing their sound slumbers.

The first Sunday in port, I left the officers to conduct the services and attended the Dutch church on shore. I asked the captain of a Dutch vessel to accompany me, but he said: "No, it is not respectable to go to church here, and I am ashamed to." I told him our Lord's words about those who are ashamed of Him; but that didn't trouble him, so I went alone. I found one European civilian present, but not one lady, and some soldiers and half castes. They first sang with great deliberation a Psalm from a book which had the notes printed over each line; then followed a prayer, hymn, half of the sermon, two contributions, the remainder of the sermon a hymn and benediction. During the sermon any one, who felt tired of sitting, arose and stood for a while. After service I spoke to the minister in the ante-room. He and all the men lit their cigars, and after a short chat and smoke they all went puffing towards home. The next Sunday I gladly went on board and was refreshed by the cheerful vigor with which the sailors sang the hymns: "When I survey the wondrous cross," and, "Just as I am, without one plea." The services were held on deck and the singing must have rung over the harbor. Returning on shore, I called on board of a Dutch bark and found a party assembled, among whom was the organist of the church, all drinking brandy and smoking, the minister being absent from town that day.

One day I attended the ordination of a Malay (Mohammedan) priest. The Mohammedan religion is here intermingled with many of the ideas and practices of heathendom, and it is the custom to test the worthiness of the candidate for the priesthood by placing around his waist a band containing long needles with the points against his abdomen. He then at a given signal runs toward an appointed goal. The people give chase and endeavor to strike the needles inwards and kill him. If he escapes, he is deemed to have established his fitness for the office, thus making legs and not heads or hearts the necessary qualifications. On this occasion the Dutch soldiers were present in force to prevent this barbarity, and the ceremony was restricted to a procession, praying and reading the Koran.

There are few places in the world as lovely as Padang. The evening drives along the roads bordered by the tall arching "arrow trees," with views of ocean and mountains on either hand, are amongst the most charming recollections I retain of any land where I have wandered. Kindly hospitalities join to heighten such charms.

The interior of Sumatra is most wonderful. There you enjoy a temperate climate, Swiss and tropical scenery combined, an eternal spring and a fertility of soil almost beyond belief. The suggestion made to me, of taking a plantation, raising coffee and leading a life of exile in a paradise, might have been very tempting, but for the restrictions the Dutch government imposes upon all trade and enterprises, and the obstacles presented by the uncouth Dutch language.

Here "every prospect pleases" and man is no viler than he is elsewhere. Contact with the natives of Asia and the East Indies has raised my opinion of "the heathen." The average of them appear as virtuous and upright as the mass of men in Christian lands. I have really seen less frequent display of vice than I have in our cities, and have noticed many pleasant exhibitions of family affection, kindness and honesty. The people in the interior of Sumatra are represented as being remarkable for virtue, temperance and integrity; and even on the coast they must be admitted to compare very favorably with the foreigners about them, whom it is said they speak of contemptuously among themselves as "drunken Europeans;" but they readily contract their vices. Christianity unquestionably elevates all whom it reaches, but our civilization alone has proved no moral blessing to those who have experienced its influences in the distant regions of the earth.

After lying at Padang for a few days a bark appeared in the offing, and with the spy-glass I discovered that she had our owner's flag at the main. I started for her in my boat, introduced myself to the captain and piloted him into an anchorage.

Capt. Blowhard was a stranger to me, but I was much pleased to have the companionship of a countryman in this far-off port. As we passed the Rocket, he remarked she looked very well, only she was rusty outside. We had finished painting her the day before, so this comment excited my surprise; but I soon discovered the captain's eye-sight was defective, and I had the pleasure of supplying him with a pair of spectacles. We went on shore together, and I introduced him to his consignee; but the polite Dutchman was startled at seeing the captain swing his legs over the arm of the chair and monopolize all the talk with boasts about his clipper bark and her performances. In the evening I took him to drive, and attempted to point out the sights of the place and the beauty of the scenery, but his attention was not to be secured; during the whole of the drive he kept his face toward me, and poured forth a continuous stream of narrative and self-adulation. I learned that he had resigned the command of one of the finest ships in the world to serve his country. He passed highest in examination on Navigation, was appointed executive officer of a large frigate, and soon, for his valor, was given the command of a gunboat. After a celebrated naval battle his vessel was so riddled with shot, that she was sent to Alexandria for the Government to inspect as a curiosity. President Lincoln and a committee from the Senate visited her and gave the captain public thanks for his brave conduct. Commodore —— remarked that there were only three gentlemen in the Volunteer Navy: Smith, Jones, and Blowhard. At the close of the war he was offered a position in the regular Navy, with a splendid command, but he declined, saying he only had desired to serve his country, and he wished no reward. I was much impressed with all this information, and his invitation to breakfast on board the next morning, with so brave, polite and magnanimous a man, inspired me with gratitude and awe. I went on board to breakfast and was politely received. His politeness was then exercised towards his steward, who, being unable to find the napkins (which probably were not often used,) was led around the cabin by the ear until they were discovered, the captain remarking to me, "He's a good-natured nigger or he'd have been killed long ago." The meal was enlivened by frequent abuse of this poor darkey, and I was not sorry when it was time to go on shore. We went in the same boat, and as the captain continually talked with his face toward me, I perceived, what I certainly thought were the fumes of whiskey; but I discovered the injustice I had done him, after a while, when he remarked, "I bought some Cologne at Batavia, and it's the queerest stuff I ever saw; it smells just like whiskey. I put some on my handkerchief just before I left the vessel, and I thought I'd mention it to you lest you might think I'd been drinking, which I never do." This should be a warning to temperance men to be careful in their choice of eau de cologne. We dined together at the hotel that day, and the captain entertained the whole company with his conversation. At one time, addressing a remark to a young Dutch officer, the latter replied: "No speak Engleesh," when the captain rejoined: "Every gentleman speaks English." The officer understood this and accepted it as an insult. Withdrawing from the table he found friendly assistance in concocting an English note, challenging the captain to fight a duel with broadswords. But this met with no response from the captain.