Departure from Trebizond.—A rough Road.—Turkish Pack-horses.—Value of Tea.—The Pipe in the East.—Mountain Riding.—Instinct of the Horse.—A Caravan overwhelmed by an Avalanche.—Mountain of Hoshabounar.—A Ride down the Mountain.—Arrival at Erzeroom 35

[CHAPTER III.]

The Consulate at Erzeroom.—Subterranean Dwellings.—Snow-blindness.— Effects of the severe Climate.—The City: its Population, Defenses, and Buildings.—Our House and Household.—Armenian Country-houses.—The Ox-stable 45

[CHAPTER IV.]

Narrow Escape from Suffocation.—Death of Noori Effendi.—A good Shot.—History of Mirza Tekee.—Persian Ideas of the Principles of Government.—The “Blood-drinker.”—Massacre at Kerbela.—Sanctity of the Place.—History of Hossein.—Attack on Kerbela, and Defeat of the Persians.—Good Effects of Commissioners’ Exertions 61

[CHAPTER V.]

The Boundary Question.—Koordish Chiefs.—Torture of Artin, an American Christian.—Improved State of Society in Turkey.—Execution of a Koord.—Power of Fatalism.—Gratitude of Artin’s Family Page 81

[CHAPTER VI.]

The Clock of Erzeroom.—A Pasha’s Notions of Horology.—Pathology of Clocks.—The Tower and Dungeon.—Ingenious Mode of Torture.—The modern Prison 99

[CHAPTER VII.]