I sat down accordingly, and in a short time accumulated a heap of papers connected more or less with the history of the ancient manuscripts; at the desire of some of my friends I selected the following pages, and it is with great diffidence that I present them to the public. If they have any merits whatever, these must consist in their containing descriptions of localities but seldom visited in modern times; or if they refer to places better known to the general reader, I hope that the peculiar circumstances which occurred during my stay there, or on my journeys through the neighbouring countries, may be found sufficiently interesting to afford some excuse for my presumption in sending them to the press.
I have no further apology to offer. These slight sketches were written for my own diversion when I had nothing better to do, and if they afford any pleasure to the reader under the same circumstances, they will answer as much purpose as was intended in their composition.
CONTENTS.
| [PART I.] EGYPT IN 1833. | |
| [CHAPTER I.] | |
Navarino—The Wrecks of the Turkish and Egyptian Fleets—Alexandria—AnArab Pilot—Intense Heat—Scene from the HotelWindows—The Water-Carriers—A Procession—A Bridal Party—Violentmode of clearing the Road—Submissive Behaviour ofthe People—Astonishing Number of Donkeys—Bedouin Arabs;their wild and savage appearance—Early Hours—Visit to thePasha's Prime Minister, Boghos Bey; hospitable reception—Kawassesand Chaoushes; their functions and powers—The Yassakjis—TheMinister's Audience Chamber—Walmas; anecdoteof his saving the life of Boghos Bey | |
| [CHAPTER II.] | |
Rapacity of the Dragomans—The Mahmoudieh Canal—The Nileat Atfeh—The muddy Waters of the Nile—Richness of the Soil—Accidentto the Boatmen—Night Sailing—A Collision—AVessel run down—Escape of the Crew—Solemn Investigation—FinalJudgment—Curious Mode of Fishing—Tameness of theBirds—Jewish Malefactors—Moving Pillar of Sand—Arrivalat Cairo—Hospitable Reception by the Consul-General | |
| [CHAPTER III.] | |
National Topics of Conversation—The Rising of the Nile; evileffects of its rising too high; still worse consequences of a deficiencyof its waters—The Nilometer—Universal Alarm in August, 1833—TheNile at length rises to the desired Height—Ceremony ofcutting the Embankment—The Canal of the Khalidj—ImmenseAssemblage of People—The State Tent—Arrival of HabeebEffendi—Splendid Dresses of the Officers—Exertions of the ArabWorkmen—Their Scramble for Paras—Admission of the Water—Itssudden Irruption—Excitement of the Ladies—PicturesqueEffect of large Assemblies in the East | |
| [CHAPTER IV.] | |
Early Hours in the Levant—Compulsory Use of Lanterns in Cairo—Separationof the different Quarters of the City—Custom of sleepingin the open air—The Mahomedan Times of Prayer—ImpressiveEffect of the Morning Call to Prayer from the Minarets—Thelast Prayer-time, Al Assr—Bedouin Mode of ascertaining thisHour—Ancient Form of the Mosques—The Mosque of SultanHassan—Egyptian Mode of "raising the Supplies"—SultanHassan's Mosque the Scene of frequent Conflicts—The Slaughterof the Mameluke Beys in the Place of Roumayli—Escape of oneMameluke, and his subsequent Friendship with Mohammed Ali—TheTalisman of Cairo—Joseph's Well and Hall—MohammedAli's Mosque—His Residence in the Citadel—The Harem—DegradedState of the Women in the East | |
| [CHAPTER V.] | |
Interview with Mohammed Ali Pasha—Mode of lighting a Room inEgypt—Personal Appearance of the Pasha—His Diamond-mountedPipe—The lost Handkerchief—An unceremoniousAttendant—View of Cairo from the Citadel—Site of Memphis;its immense extent—The Tombs of the Caliphs—The Pasha'sMausoleum—Costume of Egyptian Ladies—The Cobcob, orWooden Clog—Mode of dressing the Hair—The Veil—MistakenIdea that the Egyptian Ladies are Prisoners in the Harem;their power of doing as they like—The Veil a complete Disguise—Lawsof the Harem—A Levantine Beauty—Eastern Manners—TheAbyssinian Slaves—Arab Girls—Ugliness of the ArabWomen when old—Venerable Appearance of the old Men—AnArab Sheick | |
| [CHAPTER VI.] | |
Mohammed Bey, Defterdar—His Expedition to Senaar—His Barbarityand Rapacity—His Defiance of the Pasha—Stories of hisCruelty and Tyranny—The Horse-shoe—The Fight of theMamelukes—His cruel Treachery—His Mode of administeringJustice—The stolen Milk—The Widow's Cow—Sale and Distributionof the Thief—The Turkish Character—Pleasures of aJourney on the Nile—The Copts—Their Patriarchs—The Patriarchof Abyssinia—Basileos Bey—His Boat—An American'schoice of a Sleeping-place | |
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| [NATRON LAKES.] | |
| [CHAPTER VII.] | |
Visit to the Coptic Monasteries near the Natron Lakes—The Desertof Nitria—Early Christian Anchorites—St. Macarius of Alexandria—HisAbstinence and Penance—Order of Monks foundedby him—Great increase of the Number of ascetic Monks in theFourth Century—Their subsequent decrease, and the presentruined state of the Monasteries—Legends of the Desert—Captureof a Lizard—Its alarming escape—The Convent of Baramous—Nightattacks—Invasion of Sanctuary—Ancient Glass Lamps—Monasteryof Souriani—Its Library and Coptic MSS.—The BlindAbbot and his Oil-cellar—The persuasive powers of Rosoglio—Discoveryof Syriac MSS.—The Abbot's supposed treasure | |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] | |
View from the Convent Wall—Appearance of the Desert—Itsgrandeur and freedom—Its contrast to the Convent Garden—Beautyand luxuriance of Eastern Vegetation—Picturesque Groupof the Monks and their Visitors—The Abyssinian Monks—Theirappearance—Their austere mode of Life—The AbyssinianCollege—Description of the Library—The mode of Writing inAbyssinia—Immense Labour required to write an Abyssinianbook—Paintings and Illuminations—Disappointment of theAbbot at finding the supposed Treasure-box only an old Book—Purchaseof the MSS. and Books—The most precious left behind—Sinceacquired for the British Museum | |
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| [THE CONVENT OF THE PULLEY.] | |
| [CHAPTER IX.] | |
The Convent of the Pulley—Its inaccessible position—Difficultlanding on the bank of the Nile—Approach to the Conventthrough the Rocks—Description of the Convent and its Inhabitants—Planof the Church—Books and MSS.—Ancientexcavations—Stone Quarries and ancient Tombs—Alarm of theCopts—Their ideas of a Sketch-book | |
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| [RUINED MONASTERY AT THEBES.] | |
| [CHAPTER X.] | |
Ruined Monastery in the Necropolis of Thebes—"Mr. Hay's Tomb"—TheCoptic Carpenter—His acquirements and troubles—Heagrees to show the MSS. belonging to the ruined Monastery, whichare under his charge—Night visit to the Tomb in which they areconcealed—Perils of the way—Description of the Tomb—Probablyin former times a Christian Church—Examination of theCoptic MSS.—Alarming interruption—Hurried flight from theEvil Spirits—Fortunate escape—Appearance of the Evil Spirit—Observationson Ghost Stories—The Legend of the Old Womanof Berkeley considered | |
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| [THE WHITE MONASTERY.] | |
| [CHAPTER XI.] | |
The White Monastery—Abou Shenood—Devastations of the Mamelukes—Descriptionof the Monastery—Different styles of itsexterior and interior Architecture—Its ruinous condition—Descriptionof the Church—The Baptistery—Ancient Rites ofBaptism—The Library—Modern Architecture—The Church ofSan Francesco at Rimini—The Red Monastery—Alarming rencontrewith an armed party—Feuds between the native Tribes—Factionfights—Eastern Story Tellers—Legends of the Desert—Abrahamand Sarah—Legendary Life of Moses—Arabian Story-tellers—Attentionof their Audience | |
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| [THE ISLAND OF PHILŒ, &c.] | |
| [CHAPTER XII.] | |
The Island of Philœ—The Cataract of Assouan—The Burial Placeof Osiris—The Great Temple of Philœ—The Bed of Pharaoh—Shootingin Egypt—Turtle Doves—Story of the Prince Anas elAjoud—Egyptian Songs—Vow of the Turtle Dove—Curiousfact in Natural History—The Crocodile and its Guardian Bird—Arabnotions regarding Animals—Legend of King Solomon andthe Hoopoes—Natives of the country round the Cataracts of theNile—Their appearance and Costume—The beautiful Mouna—SolitaryVisit to the Island of Philœ—Quarrel between two nativeBoys—Singular instance of retributive Justice | |
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| [PART II.] [JERUSALEM AND THE MONASTERYAT ST. SABBA.] | |
| [CHAPTER XIII.] | |
Journey to Jerusalem—First View of the Holy City—The Valleyof Gihon—Appearance of the City—The Latin Convent of St.Salvador—Inhospitable Reception by the Monks—Visit to theChurch of the Holy Sepulchre—Description of the Interior—TheChapel of the Sepulchre—The Chapel of the Cross on MountCalvary—The Tomb and Sword of Godfrey de Bouillon—Argumentsin favour of the Authenticity of the Holy Sepulchre—TheInvention of the Cross by the Empress Helena—Legend of theCross | |
| [CHAPTER XIV.] | |
The Via Dolorosa—The Houses of Dives and of Lazarus—ThePrison of St Peter—The Site of the Temple of Solomon—TheMosque of Omar—The Hadjr el Sakhara—The Greek Monastery—ItsLibrary—Valuable Manuscripts—Splendid MS. of theBook of Job—Arabic spoken at Jerusalem—Mussulman Theoryregarding the Crucifixion—State of the Jews—Richness of theirDress in their own Houses—Beauty of their Women—Theirliteral Interpretation of Scripture—The Service in the Synagogue—Descriptionof the House of a Rabbi—The Samaritans—TheirRoll of the Pentateuch—Arrival of Ibrahim Pasha atJerusalem | |
| [CHAPTER XV.] | |
Expedition to the Monastery of St. Sabba—Reports of Arab Robbers—TheValley of Jehoshaphat—The Bridge of Al Sirat—RuggedScenery—An Arab Ambuscade—A successful Parley—TheMonastery of St. Sabba—History of the Saint—The GreekHermits—The Church—The Iconostasis—The Library—NumerousMSS.—The Dead Sea—The Scene of the Temptation—Discovery—TheApple of the Dead Sea—The Statements ofStrabo and Pliny confirmed | |
| [CHAPTER XVI.] | |
Church of the Holy Sepulchre—Processions of the Copts—TheSyrian Maronites and the Greeks—Riotous Behaviour of the Pilgrims—Theirimmense numbers—The Chant of the Latin Monks—IbrahimPasha—The Exhibition of the Sacred Fire—Excitementof the Pilgrims—The Patriarch obtains the Sacred Fire from theHoly Sepulchre—Contest for the Holy Light—Immense sum paidfor the privilege of receiving it first—Fatal Effects of the Heatand Smoke—Departure of Ibrahim Pasha—Horrible Catastrophe—DreadfulLoss of Life among the Pilgrims in their endeavoursto leave the Church—Battle with the Soldiers—Our NarrowEscape—Shocking Scene in the Court of the Church—HumaneConduct of Ibrahim Pasha—Superstition of the Pilgrims regardingShrouds—Scallop Shells and Palm Branches—The DeadMuleteer—Moonlight View of the Dead Bodies—The Curse onJerusalem—Departure from the Holy City | |
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| [PART III.] [THE MONASTERIES OF METEORA.] | |
| [CHAPTER XVII.] | |
Albania—Ignorance at Corfu concerning that Country—Its reportedabundance of Game and Robbers—The Disturbed State of theCountry—The Albanians—Richness of their Arms—Their freeuse of them—Comparative Safety of Foreigners—Tragic Fate ofa German Botanist—Arrival at Gominitza—Ride to Paramathia—ANight's Bivouac—Reception at Paramathia—Albanian Ladies—Yanina—AlbanianMode of settling a Quarrel—ExpectedAttack from Robbers—A Body-Guard mounted—Audience withthe Vizir—His Views of Criminal Jurisprudence—Retinue of theVizir—His Troops—Adoption of the European Exercises—Expeditionto Berat—Calmness and Self-possession of the Turks—ActivePreparations for Warfare—Scene at the Bazaar—ValiantPromises of the Soldiers | |
| [CHAPTER XVIII.] | |
Start for Meteora—Rencontre with a Wounded Traveller—Barbarityof the Robbers—Albanian Innkeeper—Effect of theTurkish Language upon the Greeks—Mezzovo—Interview withthe chief Person in the Village—Mount Pindus—Capture byRobbers—Salutary effects of Swaggering—Arrival under Escortat the Robbers' Head-Quarters—Affairs take a favourable turn—Anunexpected Friendship with the Robber Chief—The Khan ofMalacash—Beauty of the Scenery—Activity of our Guards—Lossof Character—Arrival at Meteora | |
| [CHAPTER XIX.] | |
Meteora—The extraordinary Character of its Scenery—Its Cavesformerly the Resort of Ascetics—Barbarous Persecution of theHermits—Their extraordinary Religious Observances—SingularPosition of the Monasteries—The Monastery of Barlaam—Thedifficulty of reaching it—Ascent by a Windlass and Net, or byLadders—Narrow Escape—Hospitable Reception by the Monks—The Agoumenos,or Abbot—His strict Fast—Description ofthe Monastery—The Church—Symbolism in the Greek Church—Respectfor Antiquity—The Library—Determination of theAbbot not to sell any of the MSS.—The Refectory—Its Decorations—Aërial Descent—TheMonastery of Hagios Stephanos—ItsCarved Iconostasis—Beautiful View from the Monastery—Monasteryof Agia Triada—Summary Justice at Triada—Monasteryof Agia Roserea—Its Lady Occupants—Admissionrefused | |
| [CHAPTER XX.] | |
The great Monastery of Meteora—The Church—Ugliness of thePortraits of Greek Saints—Greek Mode of Washing the Hands—AMonastic Supper—Morning View from the Monastery—TheLibrary—Beautiful MSS.—Their Purchase—The Kitchen—Discussionamong the Monks as to the Purchase Money for theMSS.—The MSS. reclaimed—A last look at their Beauties—ProposedAssault of the Monastery by the Robber Escort | |
| [CHAPTER XXI.] | |
Return Journey—Narrow Escape—Consequences of Singing—Arrivalat the Khan of Malacash—Agreeable Anecdote—Partingfrom the Robbers at Messovo—A Pilau—Wet Ride toParamathia—Accident to the Baggage-Mule—Its wonderfulEscape—Novel Costume—A Deputation—Return to Corfu | |
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| [PART IV.] [THE MONASTERIES OF MOUNT ATHOS.] | |
| [CHAPTER XXII.] | |
Constantinople—The Patriarch's Palace—The Plague, Anecdotes,Superstitions—The Two Jews—Interview with the Patriarch—Ceremoniesof Reception—The Patriarch's Misconception as tothe Archbishop of Canterbury—He addresses a Firman to theMonks of Mount Athos—Preparations for Departure—The UglyGreek Interpreter—Mode of securing his Fidelity | |
| [CHAPTER XXIII.] | |
Coom Calessi—Uncomfortable Quarters—A Turkish Boat and itsCrew—Grandeur of the Scenery—Legend of Jason and theGolden Fleece—The Island of Imbros—Heavy Rain Storm—ARough Sea—Lemnos—Bad Accommodation—The OldWoman's Mattress and its Contents—Striking View of MountAthos from the Sea—The Hermit of the Tower | |
| [CHAPTER XXIV.] | |
Monastery of St. Laura—Kind Reception by the Abbot—Astonishmentof the Monks—History of the Monastery—Rules ofthe Order of St. Basil—Description of the Buildings—CuriousPictures of the Last Judgment—Early Greek Paintings; Richnessof their Frames and Decorations—Ancient Church Plate—BeautifulReliquary—The Refectory—The Abbot's SavouryDish—The Library—The MSS.—Ride to the Monastery ofCaracalla—Magnificent Scenery | |
| [CHAPTER XXV.] | |
The Monastery of Caracalla—Its beautiful Situation—HospitableReception—Description of the Monastery—Legend of its Foundation—TheChurch—Fine Specimens of Ancient Jewellery—TheLibrary—The Value attached to the Books by the Abbot—Heagrees to sell some of the MSS.—Monastery of Philotheo—TheGreat Monastery of Iveron—History of its Foundation—Itsmagnificent Library—Ignorance of the Monks—Superb MSS.—TheMonks refuse to part with any of the MSS.—Beauty of theScenery of Mount Athos | |
| [CHAPTER XXVI.] | |
The Monastery of Stavroniketa—The Library—Splendid MS. ofSt. Chrysostom—The Monastery of Pantocratoras—Ruinous Conditionof the Library—Complete Destruction of the Books—Disappointment—Orationto the Monks—The Great Monasteryof Vatopede—Its History—Ancient Pictures in the Church—Legendof the Girdle of the Blessed Virgin—The Library—Wealthand Luxury of the Monks—The Monastery of Sphigmenou—BeautifulJewelled Cross—The Monastery of Kiliantari—MagnificentMS. in Gold Letters on White Vellum—The Monasteriesof Zographou, Castamoneta, Docheirou, and Xenophou—TheExiled Bishops—The Library—Very fine MSS.—Proposalsfor their Purchase—Lengthened Negotiations—Their successfulIssue | |
| [CHAPTER XXVII.] | |
The Monastery of Russico—Its Courteous Abbot—The Monasteryof Xeropotamo—Its History—High Character of its Abbot—Excursionto the Monasteries of St. Nicholas and St. Dionisius—InterestingRelics—Magnificent Shrine—The Library—TheMonastery of St. Paul—Respect shown by the Monks—BeautifulMS.—Extraordinary Liberality and Kindness of the Abbot andMonks—A valuable Acquisition at little Cost—The Monasteryof Simopetra—Purchase of MS.—The Monk of Xeropotamo—HisIdeas about Women—Excursion to Cariez—The Monasteryof Coutloumoussi—The Russian Book-Stealer—History of theMonastery—Its reputed Destruction by the Pope of Rome—TheAga of Cariez—Interview in a Kiosk—The She Cat of MountAthos | |
| [CHAPTER XXVIII.] | |
Caracalla—The Agoumenos—Curious Cross—The Nuts of Caracalla—SingularMode of preparing a Dinner Table—Departurefrom Mount Athos—Packing of the MSS.—Difficulties of theWay—Voyage to the Dardanelles—Apprehended Attack fromPirates—Return to Constantinople | |
| [Footnotes] | |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
The costumes are from drawings made at Constantinople by a Maltese artist. They are all portraits, and represent the costumes worn at the present day in different parts of the Turkish Empire. The others are from drawings and sketches by the Author, except one from a beautiful drawing by Lord Eastnor, for which the Author begs to express his thanks and obligations.
| [Click directly on any image to view it full-sized. (note of etext transcriber.)] |