[139] This is called a St Stephen's pudding: it used formerly to be provided at St John's College, Cambridge, uniformly on St Stephen's day.—Pegge.
[140] See [Suckling's Works, by Hazlitt, ii. 33.]
[141] Or, caveare. Giles Fletcher, in his "Russe Commonwealth," 1591, p. 11, says: "In Russia they have divers kinds of fish, very good and delicate: as the Bellouga or Bellougina, of four or five elnes long; the Ostrina or Sturgeon, but not so thicke nor long. These four kinds of fish breed in the Volgha, and are catched in great plenty, and served thence into the whole realme for a great food. Of the roes of these foure kinds, they make very great store of Icary, or caveary."
The introduction of these foreign delicacies is ridiculed by several writers of the times; as Ben Jonson's "Cynthia's Revels," act iii. sc. 1: "Come; let us go and taste some light dinner, a dish of sliced caviare, or so."
And in Marston's "What you Will," act ii. sc. 1—
"A man can scarce put on a tuckt-up cap,
A button'd frizado sute; scarce eate good meate,
Anchovies, caviare, but hee's satired,
And term'd phantasticall."
[142] The malacoton is one of the late peaches. So in Ben Jonson's "Bartholomew Fair"—
"A soft velvet head like a mellicotton."
—Steevens.
[143] Olived is a term of cookery. In Murrell's "New Book of Cookery," [1630,] is a receipt to make an olive-pie to be eaten hot. Olives are collops of any meat.—Steevens.