The southerly gales continued to occur with frequency, and increased in violence as we neared the depth of winter. The movement of the ice was nearly continuous, becoming very pronounced on each spring tide, and the roaring of the pack at these times grew louder and more vicious as the newly forming ice grew in thickness and hardness.

This movement of the ice culminated on Christmas night in the breaking away of the ice from the ice-foot and the starboard side of the Roosevelt and, so far as could be determined in the darkness, the complete disruption of the pack adjacent to the shore and in the mouth of Robeson Channel. This disruption probably covered the entire segment of Lincoln Sea from Cape Joseph Henry to Cape Bryant and probably beyond.

Open water in the shape sometimes of leads, sometimes of lakes, was also of almost continuous occurrence.

CAPE SHERIDAN AND THE POLAR OCEAN

THE “ROOSEVELT” AT CAPE SHERIDAN AFTER A SOUTHERLY GALE

Repeated pressures were experienced by the Roosevelt, none of them very serious, but sufficient to keep us on the qui vive all the time. The snow upon the land and along the ice-foot, which at first necessitated the use of snowshoes, eventually became packed by the recurring winds, until it would support the weight of a man. Nearly all conditions were almost entirely the reverse of those experienced by the British expedition in the same region thirty years previous. The winter moons in this high latitude were of long duration and of great brilliancy unless obscured by bad weather.

The usual monotony of an Arctic winter was entirely destroyed for us (outside of the continuous excitement which the movement of the ice afforded us) by the extensive widening of our horizon as a result of my settlements in the interior. The largest of these was located upon the southern slopes of the United States Range north of Lake Hazen; another near the head of Lake Hazen; and a third at the Ruggles River, with intermediate snow houses along the trail between the settlements and the ship.

From these settlements at the beginning of each moon sledges came in bringing loads of musk-ox meat and news of the hunt during the preceding weeks. These sledges remained a few days at the ship, then outfitted again and went back with new instalments of Eskimo families to spend the interval until the next moon in the interior. As a result of this there was constantly something to talk of and something to look forward to.