CAPE HECLA WITH CAPE JOSEPH HENRY IN THE DISTANCE

CAPTAIN BARTLETT AT CAPE HECLA

While at this camp, the floe on which my igloos were built split in two, shattering the igloos, and the ice, evidently under severe pressure, rumbled and groaned continuously. The 8th was a fine day with some wind from the northwest, and the land hidden by water-smoke forming over the numerous cracks and narrow leads resulting from the movement of the ice.

The going was comparatively good on this march, except where the movement of the ice had faulted the trail. Two more sledges were broken and held together just long enough to reach camp. At this camp again the floe on which my igloos were built cracked under the terrific pressure, and the igloos shook and trembled as if by an earthquake shock, so that some of the Eskimos rushed out in alarm. The cracking and uneasiness of the ice continued during our stay in this camp. The rapid increase of daylight was marked here by the insertion of an ice window in our igloo which enabled us to distinguish objects inside throughout the entire night. An early start was made on the 9th in spite of heavy northwest wind and disagreeable drift. A few hours later I met the captain returning with his party from the cache at the end of the first division, fixed by me at the end of the 6th march. He had left Henson the day before, and on the way back met the Doctor and Clark, so that a few moments’ conversation with him put me in touch with conditions and the location of everyone ahead of me. He reported the ice in motion everywhere, the floe upon which my advance loads were placed yesterday drifted a mile or more to the southeast, and the trail disrupted for a long distance. I gave him detailed instructions and he disappeared in the rear of my party on his way to Hecla for additional loads. This was a fairly good march though we were steadily drifting eastward. I hoped that with the cessation of the spring tides and the continuance of the bitter cold the ice would become more stable.

On the 10th the ice was more quiet; there was little wind: the day was fine and the going comparatively good. I quote from my Journal: “Things are too favourable. I am oppressed with the fears of open water ahead.”

On the 11th I overtook Clark and the Doctor at cache number one, and was able to simplify and assist the work of both in some details. The next two days were a continuance of the fine but bitterly cold weather. The Three-star brandy on my sledge was frozen continuously. On the 15th I overtook Henson and the Doctor with their parties camped together, Henson claiming to be stalled by the weather. I gave him explicit instructions and started him out. I then sent Marvin and his party back to Hecla for additional supplies in order to give Henson a start, and utilised my own and Clark’s parties in bringing up supplies from cache number one, and in pushing loads ahead from this camp. While at this camp the Captain came in, having been six marches from Hecla. The men sent out on Henson’s trail reported that the going beyond here was the best yet.

DELAY CAMP AT THE “BIG LEAD”
84° 38′