The march of the 16th was not only uncomfortable but very disappointing. Near the close of it, the fog rose a little, and showed that instead of being abreast of Cape Albert Edward as I had expected, we were barely abreast of the west end of Ward Hunt Island. Our previous march had left us two or three hours short of Cape Alexandra, and this march had been short as to distance. Three large streams bothered us, and in crossing one of them, both my men were taken off their feet, one wet all over, the other partially, and the sledge nearly swept away, all my strength just serving to hold it till they could pull themselves out by it, and then help haul it out. The white dog was fed to the others here.
At this camp the temperature fell well below the freezing point, making us distinctly uncomfortable. When we began the next march, its effect was immediately apparent. The snow and the smaller pools were now frozen firm enough to support sledge and dogs and myself, on snowshoes; the streams were less in volume, and the fog, its supply of raw material cut off by the stoppage of evaporation, gave signs of relaxing its grip. Added to this, a considerable number of the lakes, having found an outlet, had drained off and were now mere shadows of their former selves. Matters were mending a little, though we again pitched our tent in wet snow, somewhat west of Camp Nares. The old black Sipsu dog was killed here.
Two large streams were negotiated in this march, one by a detour round where it poured into a crack, the other over a snow arch.
When we began the next march, the sun was breaking through the fog; when we were off the middle of Markham Bay, he had gained full victory, and from then on till afternoon, he beat down upon us in a blinding glare which burned my face and scorched my eyes in spite of my big-vizored cap.
It gave me the opportunity, however, to see the twin peaks of Columbia from the west and north, and they are a very striking sight.
After we had our tea, the men went over to the musk-ox meat which we had left on the outward trip. They were a little anxious as to whether the foxes had eaten it all or not.
They returned a few hours later, gorged, and with the information that the foxes had not disturbed the meat, and that there was more than what we left, Koolootingwah having killed two more musk-oxen here on his return. They also brought back a hare and one of Koolootingwah’s dogs, which had slipped his harness and remained with the meat, and was now in fine condition. All this was very gratifying. The meat allowed me to remain here two sleeps, which were absolutely necessary for my dogs; the fresh dog was a very welcome recruit, and I appreciated the hare as an agreeable change from the dog meat of the previous two days.
After a few hours’ sleep, I went over with the men and dogs and one sledge, to feed the dogs thoroughly, bring over the remainder of the meat, and from the top of the bluff examine the ice eastward, to see what our route must be to Hecla.
Coming back over the bluffs, to our camp the orography of the glacial fringe both east and west was very strongly brought out by the streams and blue lakes which filled every depression and furrow. I took some photos, but was not sanguine as to their success. Was afraid that the blue of the lakes would not show on the photos.
There was a great deal of water between Columbia and Hecla, and the only possible route for us was along the outer rafter. Even there it did not look attractive.