| CHAPTER I. |
| PAGE |
| Departure from Monte Video—Port Santa Elena—Geologicalremarks—Cape Fairweather—Non-existence of Chalk—NaturalHistory—Approach to Cape Virgins, and theStrait of Magalhaens (or Magellan) | [1] |
| CHAPTER II. |
| Enter the Strait of Magalhaens (or Magellan), and anchoroff Cape Possession—First Narrow—Gregory Bay—PatagonianIndians—Second Narrow—Elizabeth Island—FreshwaterBay—Fuegian Indians—Arrival at Port Famine | [12] |
| CHAPTER III. |
| Prepare the Beagle, and a decked boat (the Hope) for surveyingthe Strait—Beagle sails westward, and the Hopetowards the south-east—Sarmiento's Voyage—and descriptionof the colony formed by him at Port Famine—SteamerDuck—Large trees—Parroquets—Mount Tarn—Barometricalobservations—Geological character—Reportof the Hope's cruise | [26] |
| CHAPTER IV. |
| Deer seen—Hope sails again—Eagle Bay—Gabriel Channel—'Williwaws'—PortWaterfall—Natives—AdmiraltySound—Gabriel Channel—Magdalen Channel—Hope returnsto Port Famine—San Antonio—Lomas Bay—Lossof boat—Master and two seamen drowned | [48] |
| CHAPTER V. |
| Lieutenant Sholl arrives—Beagle returns—Loss of the SaxeCoburg sealer—Captain Stokes goes to Fury Harbour tosave her Crew—Beagle's proceedings—Bougainville's memorial—Cordova'smemorial—Beagle's danger—Difficulties—CaptainStokes's boat-cruise—Passages—Natives—Dangerousservice—Western entrance of the Strait ofMagalhaens—Hope's cruise—Prepare to return to MonteVideo | [65] |
| CHAPTER VI. |
| Trees—Leave Port Famine—Patagonians—Gregory Bay—Bysante—Maria—Falkner'saccount of the Natives—Indiansseen on the borders of the Otway Water, in 1829—Mariavisits the Adventure—Religious ceremony—PatagonianEncampment—Tomb of a Child—Women's employment—Children—Gratitudeof a Native—Size ofPatagonians—Former accounts of their gigantic height—Character—Articlesfor barter—Fuegians living withPatagonians—Ships sail—Arrive at Monte Video and Riode Janeiro | [84] |
| CHAPTER VII. |
| Leave Rio de Janeiro—Santos—Sta. Catharina—MonteVideo—Purchase the Adelaide schooner, for a Tender tothe Adventure—Leave Monte Video—Beagle goes to PortDesire—Shoals off Cape Blanco—Bellaco Rock—CapeVirgins—Possession Bay—First Narrow—Race—GregoryBay—View—Tomb—Traffic with Natives—Cordial meeting—Mariagoes on board—Natives intoxicated—LaredoBay—Port Famine | [106] |
| CHAPTER VIII. |
| Find that the Cutter had been burned—Anxiety for the Beagle—UxbridgeSealer—Beagle arrives—Her cruise—BellacoRock—San Julian—SantaCruz—Gallegos—Adeona—Death of Lieutenant Sholl—Adelaide sails—SupposedChannel of San Antonio—Useless Bay—Natives—PortSan Antonio—Humming-birds—Fuegians—Beagle sails—Sarmiento—Roldan—Pond—Whales—Structure—Scenery—PortGallant | [118] |
| CHAPTER IX. |
| Detention in Port Gallant—Humming-birds in snowshowers—Fuegians—Geological remarks—Canoes—Carving—Birds—Fish—ShagNarrows—Glaciers—Avalanches—Natives—Climate—Winter setting in—Adelaideloses a boat—Floods—Lightning—Scurvy—Adelaide'ssurvey—Bougainville Harbour—Indians cross the Strait,and visit Port Famine—Sealing vessels sail—Scurvy increases—Adelaidesent for guanaco meat—Return of theBeagle—Captain Stokes very ill—Adelaide brings meatfrom the Patagonians—Death of Captain Stokes | [133] |
| CHAPTER X. |
| Account of the Beagle's cruise—Borja Bay—Cape Quod—StuartBay—Cape Notch—Remarks on weather, anderrors of Chart—Evangelists—Santa Lucia—Madre deDios—Gulf of Trinidad—Port Henry—Puma's track—Humming-birds—Verybad weather—Campana Island—Dangers—Gale—Wet—Sick—SantaBarbara—Wager'sbeam—Wigwams—Guaineco Islands—Cape Tres Montes—St.Paul—Port Otway—Hoppner Sound—Cape Raper | [154] |
| CHAPTER XI. |
| Leave Port Otway—San Quintin Sound—Gulf of Peñas—KellyHarbour—St. Xavier Island—Death of SerjeantLyndsey—Port Xavier—Ygnacio Bay—Channel's mouth—Badweather—Perilous situation—Lose the yawl—Sicklist—Return to Port Otway—Thence to Port Famine—GregoryBay—Natives—Guanaco meat—Skunk—Condors—Brazilians—Juanico—CaptainFoster—Changes ofofficers | [173] |
| CHAPTER XII. |
| Adventure sails from Rio de Janeiro to the River Plata—Gorriti—Maldonado—ExtraordinaryPampero—Beagle'slosses—Ganges arrives—another Pampero—Go up theriver for water—Gale, and consequent detention—Sailfrom Monte Video—part from Consorts—Port Desire—TowerRock—Skeletons—Sea Bear Bay—Fire—Guanacoes—PortDesire Inlet—Indian graves—Vesselsseparate—Captain Foster—Chanticleer—Cape Horn—KaterPeak—Sail from St. Martin Cove—Tribute toCaptain Foster—Valparaiso—Santiago—Pinto Heights—Chilóe—Aldunate | [189] |
| CHAPTER XIII. |
| Beagle and Adelaide anchor in Possession Bay—Beaglepasses the First Narrow—Fogs—Pecket Harbour—Adelaidearrives with Guanaco meat—Portuguese Seamen—Peculiarlight—Party missing—Return—Proceed towardsPort Famine—Fuegians—Lieut. Skyring—Adelaide sailsto survey Magdalen and Barbara Channels—Views—LyellSound—Kempe Harbour—Cascade Bay—San PedroSound—Port Gallant—Diet—Rain—Awnings—Boatcruise—Warning—Jerome Channel—Blanket bags—OtwayWater—Frequent rain—Difficulty in lighting fires | [212] |
| CHAPTER XIV. |
| Place for a Settlement—Frost—Boats in danger—Narrowescape—Sudden change—Beagle Hills—Fuegian Painting—Tides—Medicine—Waterwarmer than the air—JeromeChannel—Mr. Stokes returns to the Beagle—Cape Quod—SnowySound—Whale Sound—Choiseul Bay—Returnto the Beagle—Adelaide returns—Plan of operations—Difficultiesremoved—Preparations—Wear and tear ofclothing—Ascend the Mountain de la Cruz—Sail fromPort Gallant—Tides—Borja Bay—Cape Quod—Gulf ofXaultegua—Frost and snow—Meet Adelaide—Part—EnterPacific—Arrive at Chilóe | [230] |
| CHAPTER XV. |
| Extracts from the Journals of Lieutenants Skyring andGraves—Magdalen Channel—Keats Sound—Mount Sarmiento—BarrowHead—Cockburn Channel—Prevalenceof south-west winds—Melville Sound—Ascent of MountSkyring—Memorial—Cockburn and Barbara Channels—Massof Islets and Rocks—Hewett Bay—Cypress treesuseful—Adelaide rejoins Beagle in Port Gallant—CaptainKing's narrative resumed—Plan of future proceedings—Adelaidearrives at Chilóe—Abstract of Lieutenant Skyring'saccount of her proceedings—Smyth Channel—MountBurney—'Ancon sin Salida'—Natives—KirkeNarrow—Guia Narrow—Peculiar tides—Indians in plankCanoes—Passage to Chilóe | [251] |
| CHAPTER XVI. |
| Chilóe—Its probable importance—Valdivia founds sevenCities; afterwards destroyed by the Indians—Migration ofSpanish settlers—Province and Islands of Chilóe—Districtsand population—Government—Defence—Winds—Town—Durabilityof wooden Buildings—Cultivation—Wantof industry—Improvement—Dress—Habits of lowerClasses—Morality—Schools—Language—Produce—Manufactures—Exportsand imports—Varieties of wood—Alerse—Roads—Piraguas—Ploughs—Corn—Potatoes—Contributions—Birds—Shell-fish—Medicalpractitioners—Remedies—Climate | [269] |
| CHAPTER XVII. |
| Chilóe the last Spanish possession in South America—Freyre'sExpedition—Failure—Second Expedition under Freyreand Blanco—Quintanilla's capitulation—Chilóe taken—Aldunateplaced in command—Chilóe a dependency ofChile—Beagle sails to sea coast of Tierra del Fuego—Adelaiderepaired—Adelaide sails—Adventure goes toValparaiso—Juan Fernandez—Fishery—Goats—Dogs—Geology—Botany—Shells—Spanishaccounts—Anson'svoyage—Talcahuano—Concepcion—Pinoleo—AraucanianIndians—Re-enter the Strait of Magalhaens—Fuegians | [298] |
| CHAPTER XVIII. |
| Adelaide's last cruise—Port Otway—San Quintin—MarineIslands—Unknown river or passage—San Tadeo—Isthmusof Ofqui—San Rafael—Sufferings and route of Wager'sparty—Channel's Mouth—Byron—Cheap—Elliot—Hamilton—Campbell—IndianCacique—Passage of theDesecho—Osorio—Xavier Island—Jesuit Sound—Kirke'sreport—Night tides—Guaianeco Islands—Site of theWager's wreck—Bulkely and Cummings—Speedwell Bay—Indigenouswild Potato—Mesier Channel—Fatal Bay—Deathof Mr. Millar—Fallos Channel—Lieutenant Skyring'sillness—English Narrow—Fish—Wigwams—Indians—LevelBay—Brazo Ancho—Eyre Sound—Seal—Icebergs—WalkerBay—Nature of the Country—Habitsof the Natives—Scarcity of population | [323] |
| CHAPTER XIX. |
| Sarmiento Channel—Ancon sin Salida—Cape Earnest—Canalof the Mountains—Termination of the Andes—KirkeNarrow—Easter Bay—Disappointment Bay—ObstructionSound—Last Hope Inlet—Swans—Coots—DeerRiver—Lagoon—Singular Eddies—Passage of the Narrow—Arrivalat Port Famine—Zoological remarks | [346] |
| CHAPTER XX. |
| Beagle sails from San Carlos—Enters Strait—Harbour ofMercy—Cape Pillar—Apostles—Judges—Landfall Island—CapeGloucester—Dislocation Harbour—Week Islands—Fuegians—LatitudeBay—Boat's crew in distress—Petrel—Passages—OtwayBay—Cape Tate—FinchamIslands—Deepwater Sound—Breaker Bay—Grafton Islands—Geologicalremarks—Barbara Channel—Mount Skyring—Compassesaffected—Drawings—Provisions—Opportunitieslost | [360] |
| CHAPTER XXI. |
| Skyring's chart—Noir Island—Penguins—Fuegians—Sarmiento—TownshendHarbour—Horace Peaks—CapeDesolation—Boat lost—Basket—Search in Desolation Bay—Natives—HeavyGale—Surprise—Seizure—Consequences—Returnto Beagle—Sail to Stewart Harbour—Setout again—Escape of Natives—Unavailing search—Discomforts—Tides—Natureof Coast—Doris Cove—ChristmasSound—Cook—York-Minster—March Harbour—Builda boat—Treacherous rocks—Skirmish withthe Natives—Captives—Boat Memory—Petrel | [386] |
| CHAPTER XXII. |
| Mr. Murray returns—Go to New Year Sound—See DiegoRamirez Islands from Henderson Island—Weddell's IndianCove—Sympiesometer—Return to Christmas Sound—Beaglesails—Passes the Ildefonso and Diego RamirezIslands—Anchors in Nassau Bay—Orange Bay—Yapoos—Mr.Murray discovers the Beagle Channel—NumerousNatives—Guanacoes—Compasses affected—Cape Horn—Specimens—Chanticleer—Mistakeabout St. Francis Bay—DiegoRamirez Islands—Climate—San Joachim Cove—BarneveltIsles—Evouts Isle—Lennox Harbour | [417] |
| CHAPTER XXIII. |
| Set out in boats—Find Guanacoes—Murray Narrow—BirchFungus—Tide—Channel—Glaciers—View—Mountains—Unbrokenchain—Passages—Steam-vessels—Jemmy Button—Puma—Nest—Accident—Natives—Murray'sJournal—CapeGraham—Cape Kinnaird—SpaniardHarbour—Valentyn Bay—Cape Good Success—Natives—LennoxIsland—Strait le Maire—Good Success Bay—Accident—Tiderace—San Vicente—San Diego—Tides—Soundings—North-EastCoast—San Sebastian—Reflections—PortDesire—Monte Video—Santa Catharina—Rio de Janeiro | [438] |
| CHAPTER XXIV. |
| A few Nautical remarks upon the passage round Cape Horn;and upon that through the Strait of Magalhaens, or Magellan | [463] |