There are thirty-three stations built upon one plan, spacious and convenient, all on a level with the entrances to the carriages; two or three of these are well supplied with eatables and drinkables, which were by no means neglected; also a great consumption of tea, a very general beverage in Russia, served in glass tumblers with lemon juice instead of cream, which we did not consider a good substitute; though accompanied with good bread and butter, proved to us far more acceptable than many other dishes.
Smoking, everywhere so common, is here indulged to the greatest excess, and not confined to one sex, several ladies sporting their cigarettes.
If not many passengers, a lady is usually accommodated with a double seat.
I have mentioned the prevailing habit of bowing to the saints. This occurred on our journey, and on looking back, I found we had just passed a church at a considerable distance.
We arrived at Moscow at eight o'clock the following morning, having performed the journey, 400 miles, in twenty hours, stopping at the various stations about 1½ hours, this journey formerly requiring twelve to fifteen days.
It was raining very hard, but by the kindness of a gentleman we were helped to a cab, and after giving the necessary directions, we proceeded to the hotel which had been recommended to us, but found it full.
With the second hotel on our list we were more successful.
After breakfast, the rain continuing, my secretary,[5] engaged herself writing home, whilst I proceeded to present our letters of introduction.
One of these friends helped us to a guide, and also engaged a carriage to facilitate our future movements.