Went with F. T. to the Army Office, and saw a great many likenesses of Indian Chiefs; then to the Naval Office; saw the bags containing conquered flags, and also models of ships. Thence we visited the room containing the original Declaration of American Independence; also several treaties containing the seals and signatures of George 3rd and Bonaparte, Louis Philippe, Bernadotte, etc., etc., and what was still more extraordinary, a drawer containing many gold and silver medals, with a most valuable gold snuff box studded with diamonds presented by the Emperor Alexander[16], valued at £1000; all these things were left open entirely to us, without any other person in the room; this I consider very wrong as leading into temptation and I predict they will soon have some plunderer, either Yankee or foreigner; on going away we expressed our surprise at the want of discretion; they said they had only missed one small gold coin. Thence I drove to the Capitol, visited both Chambers and also the Library which is beautiful and well-furnished. I saw Cobbett's works. On coming to dinner I met my old Scotch friend Rowlandson with a countryman coming out to purchase land. Went again to Congress; heard some animated debates concerning the Indian States. Spent the last evening very pleasantly at Mr. Thompson's where I had the pleasure to meet the Unitarian Minister, Mr. Paulfrey I think, also young Taylor, Mr. Rowlandson and his friend.
THURSDAY, JUNE 26TH.
Found another person in R. C.'s bed which made a little more precaution necessary. Rose half past four, a very pleasant morning. Tasted the second piece of pineapple last night; very cheap, not more than 8 or 10 cents.
Taken to the boat in an omnibus an hour too soon, this a pretty general practice. Sailed ¼ past seven, observed some boats not more than one yard across and about 5 yds. long like small canoes. Saw two turtles opposite to Washington Fort; they dived instantly; saw a good deal of grass on the Potomack, which is supposed to be carried off the land by the hurricanes. Thunder and lightning every evening but the last whilst at Washington. Dined at Fredricksburgh; paid 50 cents, and 5 dollars to Charlottesville, the road so far splendid, through woody country. Two intelligent persons in the stage, one addicted to chewing much tobacco and spitting; the matter was argued. Saw the first snake lying dead on the road side, about one yard long. The worm fence generally used. The trees generally ringed, an easy way of clearing the wood. The roads paved in some places by logs of wood thrown across. Stopped at Chestnut Hill for supper nearly half past eleven; had coffee, chickens, honey, and was charged 50 cents; on being complained of they said great uncertainty as to number; had to provide for 10 or 12 and sometimes only two or three came. The driver did not whip much, but spoke to his horses kindly, as Punch, Sammy, Phoebe, etc.
Got to Orange Court ¼ past one, told we should be called at three; objected to a double-bedded room, afterwards shown another to myself, found the charge only 25 cents. The greater part of the negroes are slaves; one 40 years of age, worth 400 or 450 dollars; not allowed to remain here when freed; frequently bought by dealers who chain them together; the worst are generally disposed of first.
FRIDAY, JUNE 27TH.
Rested very well; rose at half past three and set off at four; the road worse than any existing coal pit road I ever saw in England, full of ruts with stony rocks and stumps of wood projecting. Arrival at Gordonville to breakfast at six; paid 50 cents which I could not grudge as the coffee was very good. The road generally better, but in one or two places worse than ever I had seen before; many pigs and long-nosed boars with bristles like porcupines, active in discovering snakes; a black snake 2 feet long killed by the coachman's whip; a little farther on a large lizard; a young hare and two partridges; beautiful trees rising very high on both banks; several saw-mills; the planks covering the bridges are loose and some of them slender. Got to Charlottesville at ten; part of the way very sleepy, so that there is danger of falling especially when jolting.
Dined at Brookville, the first Blue Ridge Mountain, good plain dinner with excellent milk and honey. Walked up the mountain, saw great quantities of whinberries; a delightful stream of water near the summit.
Arrived at Staunton at seven, very sleepy the last stage; sometimes the driver and I asleep at the same time, and the road very hilly, quite wonderful that I should have arrived safe. Many of the houses here are built as in Switzerland; trees are just squared and notched, or dove-tailed at the ends; sometimes the interstices are filled with clay or mortar. The wild vine climbs to the top of the highest trees.