Rose half past three; dressed without a glass. On the road observed two little bears chained; they are fed one or two years and then eaten; these were about two months old. Also saw a quantity of pigs. A beautiful drive along the Kanawha. Indians farm on this side; mountains of fine timber on the other. Breakfasted 16 miles from the Falls, on good coffee and honey. Plenty of bucks' horns hung in the yard. Another young bear chained in a yard to be fed and eaten. 65,000 pigs driven last year through one turnpike gate. Large salt-works, the brine is pumped up and evaporated. Good coals are drawn out of the mountains on both sides of the valley, fine springs of gas escaping out of the surface which ignited on applying a live coal. The negroes said it would continue burning a week or two unless put out by rain.
Waited at Charleston nearly an hour and then found the coach filled with passengers, my seat particularly hot and disagreeable, so that I got outside; the driver refused to have more than one with him. I insisted on the seat, at length the other person went upon the roof, and I had a pleasant ride through hilly country covered with forest trees. On descending the hills one of the horses ran the coach wheel a little on the bank, so as nearly to throw it down the precipice. Again we forded the river in consequence of the bridge being washed away. Arrived at Guyandotte on the Ohio at half past eleven, got some coffee and entered the mail steamboat, where I slept pretty well notwithstanding the lightning and the shaking of the vessel.
WEDNESDAY, JULY 2ND.
Rose half past five at the sound of a bell so that the beds could be adjusted before breakfast; shaved and washed my mouth in iced water. Walked on shore to Portsmouth; saw a basket of offal beef thrown into the river; a warm morning, the ice on the butter steaming, 17 dishes of hot meat besides vegetables for the people. Paid to Maysville including breakfast and bed 3 dollars. Very much pleased with the cabin boy singing about "Father fighting for him and liberty," "Tennessee and liberty."
Arrived at Maysville at half past one.
Took a julep consisting of 1½ glass of wine with plenty of sugar and ice, also several herbs, mint, etc., mingled together, making a richly flavoured beverage. Took some dinner but found nothing good but some cucumber and onion. Paid fare to Lexington, 4 dollars. Passed yesterday a chapel made of squared pines dove-tailed together. At sunset I and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, went and bathed in the Ohio, most delightfully warm and the current very strong. The river rose last winter but one, 63 feet.
Maysville, a very pretty place to stop a day or two. The beach is high and consequently has a fine view of the steam boats, which are often passing up and down this noble river.
THURSDAY, JULY 3RD.
Rose soon after six as the stage to proceed in does not come in till eight. Slept pretty well till about twelve, when a negro came to put down the window as he said a storm was coming; presently I heard thunder which became louder and was followed by heavy rain. At the hotel here, three fans were made to move overhead to cool and drive away the flies. It was pulled by a nice black girl. Paid for dinner, supper, bed and breakfast one dollar. The ferryboat moved across by means of six horses revolving round. No cyder to be had here, everyone drinking spirits or ale, the julep is called a hailstorm. Passed over some of the best and worst roads in the U.S. some limestone, and macadam and limestone. Came to the blue or sulphur springs resembling Harrogate; took some lemon juice in the water. Arrived at Hillsburgh at half past seven, having had nothing to eat since breakfast at seven. At Paris I parted with Mr. and Mrs. Marshall, and Mr. Hart the young midshipman, with considerable regret. Mr. M. had to explain on the way to his constituents. Mr. McLatcher continued with me to Lexington where we arrived at ten o'clock. After getting some coffee I hastened to bed, found three beds in the room, only one occupied. On the way yesterday we found a good deal of hemp grown, and much of it manufactured into bagging, etc. The land rolling or undulated is generally well cultivated.