TUESDAY, JULY 15TH.
Got up at half past six, felt restored and now think it better than pushing on in the steamboat last night. The young man confirmed the old Irishman's account of the student at Meadville, viz. that the young one we had seen would be at his studies in the morning, and in the afternoon discharge his board by working as a blacksmith. Accompanied on board the steamer by the innkeeper; found the wind favourable; sailed soon after 8 A.M. not a nice boat and the engine out of order, so that we shall be late before we get into Buffalo. Read in a periodical belonging to one of the passengers a terrible story written by Lord Morpeth. A most delightful breeze on the lake; how different to yesterday when stewed on the coach and covered with dust. Had some good singing on board by Methodists; got out at Portland and had a most delicious bath before dinner. Called at Dunkirk, also at Silver Creek; prevailed upon the ladies (Methodists) to sing again; paid for passage two dollars and ½ for dinner. Read a good deal in the "Temperance Intelligencer," in which a correspondent attempted to prove that the wine approved in Scripture was not fermented; another disapproves of the use of cyder and recommends the cutting down of apple trees. Landed at Buffalo at 8 P.M. a very pleasant sail. Some trouble in getting my portmanteau to the inn; an offer from Irishmen who did not know the place. Here informed of a change in the English Ministry.
WEDNESDAY, JULY 16TH.
Rose at six and felt somewhat languid, having never I suppose had time for such feelings. No walking in America; taken down by stages to the boats however short the distance. Bought a pennyworth of cracked hickory nuts. A delightful breeze. Met on the steamer an English gentleman, his lady and child. Set off in a stage and left Buffalo at eleven A.M.; found it a pleasant drive mostly along the banks of the river. Arrived at Niagara soon after four P.M. Immediately set off to the Falls; engaged till nearly seven without thinking of food, though I had eaten nothing since six this morning. Much struck with the Bridge over the Rapids to the Goat Island. Then walked towards the ferry, an immense sheet of water though only a small part compared with the Horse Shoe; returned and crossed over to Goat Island down Biddle's Staircase between the two cascades; afterwards to the bridge that overhangs the tremendous Fall, a huge piece of rock below occasionally visible when the foam was blown away; the vast clouds of mist rising very considerably into the air, and the stream for a great distance as white as milk. Ascended the tower[17], whence there is a more extensive view of the Rapids above as well as the river below. Again, after tea I went over the same ground and had a moonlight view of this most wonderful spectacle.
THURSDAY, JULY 17TH.
Rose before six, again visited the Falls. Left soon after eight; paid the porter 12½ cents, but he wanted more for cleaning my shoes. A favourable passage across as the wind blew the spray upwards; the water in parts much agitated; the ferryman demanded six cents extra for my baggage; nobody to carry it forward up the hill to the hotel; a man who came in the boat offered to carry it for 50 cents; this I refused and set off with it myself. I had not carried it more than two-thirds up the hill before I repented; the man came up and agreed for 25 cents; as it proved further than I expected I gave him a glass in addition. After changing my flannel shirt and getting a glass of milk I set off to the Falls, found a party going under the cascade; undressed and put on trousers, an oil-case jacket with a belt and a pair of rough shoes, and descended the staircase. There were two ladies but they were placed under the care of the guide. The rock projects amazingly, the path is narrow and rather slippery being constantly wet with the spray; at one place we were told to keep our heads down and hold our breath. I must say it proved more of an adventure than I expected; it resembled a tremendous shower of rain blown at us with the utmost fury; nothing much is to be seen, and I scarcely think it worth the trouble; the visit might be rendered much safer by means of a chain fastened alongside of the rock. A more irregular confused hotel, I never was in. Walked to the Falls alone by moonlight.
FRIDAY, JULY 18TH.
Rose half past five; paid six cents for shoes; walked to the Fall, still more magnificent than ever; green where there is most water; the whole Horseshoe filled with vapour rising a vast height, and at the bottom the water is rolled away one complete mass of foam, white as snow, too dazzling to behold; the spray rises in beautiful clouds and falls in gentle drops nearly a mile off. Paid for Niagara one dollar. Left at eleven, called to see the Whirlpool formed by the river going into a bay; then Brock's monument 170 steps; giving a fine view of the lake. Allowed 2½ dollars for book and map. The stage gave way on going out, found the leather spring had broken, but we managed to go on slowly to Niagara. Bathed in Lake Ontario, then dined for 50 cents. Found one of our passengers to be Major Penn, who had been a good while in the East Indies and other parts of the world; also a young Irishman, a Canadian and an American. Sailed ¼ before six; arrived at York at half past nine, went on shore to buy "The Tourist," and a map, but found the shops closed; returned and went to bed. The berths double and if fully occupied would be very disagreeable. Felt tired in the knee-joints, supposed from descending the staircase at the Falls and going up Brock's monument. Got a comfortable cup of tea, bread good, etc. Paid 6 dollars for passage including board. More satisfaction here than waiting for the Great Britain to-morrow; our passengers only about 8 or 10 and the cabin spacious and neat.
SATURDAY, JULY 19TH.
Passed a good night and rose a little before seven. Breakfast at 8 on tea and toast with some good veal cutlets. Read a Canada paper containing rather more Bristol news than the American papers, also a conceited account of the Falls. A very pleasant breeze. An intelligent gentleman from New York explained the reason for such excessive labour in this country, that a man was better rewarded, and after getting a few dollars he was stimulated to further exertion, and again he was able to make more of these savings by further investments or speculations. He thought there was much less learning among the young men in America; they became impatient to go into business; all at 21 years feel independent and able to get on, and consequently little under the control of the parents unless wealthy.