THURSDAY, JULY 24TH.
Rose at five having rested very well, though I suspected the bed-clothes not being dry. Went on shore at Three Rivers and into the market; Indians selling coloured baskets; a good supply of eggs and vegetables, also square lumps of sugar made from the maple. Bought a few red currants, notwithstanding the cholera; a number of canoes with different kinds of fish; the eels thicker than ours; just in time for the steamer, will not cut it so fine again. This morning almost chilly; yesterday at 4, 95 degrees and at six, 81. The shores on each side are lined with neat cottages. Good coffee and bread. Soon after nine the eccentric collar of one of the engines broke, so that we shall be some hours late; the other engine is also out of order, so that we may not arrive before 8 or 9. Luckily both were set to rights, and the tide is in our favour so that we now hope to get in at 3. Arrived at Quebec at two and hurried to the Post Office. Startled at sister's letter having a black wafer, but was greatly delighted to find all well both in it and in C. D.'s. The weather intensely hot. On enquiring for T. Marsden at the P.O. found his son lived next door to the Albion Hotel, and kept a small druggist's shop; I was shown upstairs; William and young wife with her mother, who had come from New York on a visit with another daughter were there. William looking better but very thin, which they said had been the case during the last three weeks in consequence of so much sickness; the cholera very bad, 29 deaths yesterday. Thomas lives about 1½ miles off. Dined at the Hotel (Albion), walked with William to the hospital and then to his sister's; the little girl sang for us.
FRIDAY, JULY 25TH.
Rose at six. A good night's rest having supped chiefly upon milk. A thunderstorm at four reconciled us to it, in hopes of its driving away the cholera, which after all I cannot but think is exaggerated. Took a calash with young Fred Andrews, a most intelligent child of 8 years. Went over some romantic country, and in two hours came to an open space on the side of a mountain covered with trees. Fred pointed to his grandmother; she did not know me but was greatly affected. Found Thomas engaged in a small room teaching 26 boys and girls, some coming three miles. He did not know me; but was not so much altered as I expected. His wife soon told me of T.'s irregularities which caused him to leave the school at Quebec, and they had come to this wild place to break his connections; their neighbours gone except two or three the most villainous low Irish. If she left home some of the dram sellers would fetch away hay to pay T.'s shots. After dinner T. and I set off to Beauport Lake; sailed across, caught a nice trout but no other fish, and were only allowed to use the line. A great quantity of raspberries, and there had been many strawberries. His income at one time had been 25 dollars per week. He had received 100 dollars for tuning the organ at the Cathedral.
SATURDAY, JULY 26TH.
Made arrangements for setting off to the Falls (Montmorency Falls) at six, but the rain prevented us, almost the first disappointment in all my journey. It cleared up and we set off, a party of five to the Falls; a pleasant drive with several pleasing views of the city; disappointed with the Cascade; the grass wet, and not able to get to the foot; a strong current going to a saw mill. Returned soon after twelve; walked with T. Marsden's wife to the Potters' field to see Ainsworth's grave stone, but did not find it. Then to the Citadel[21] whence I had a magnificent view though not quite clear; and descended by the tremendous staircase, 365 steps with an inclined plane to wind up stone. Crossed over the river in a four horse ferry to see the Indians settled there, but did not find them. On my return the boat had sailed and I was rowed in a canoe by three children; got to the inn a little after four. Found two pairs of stockings missing; got 2/- allowed. Paid 1¼ dollars for going to Montmorency. Rain as we set off to the steamboat: sailed at seven on my way home. Between 30 and 40 sat down to tea and coffee, the latter very good. Had some conversation with Mr. Livingstone; found he was a large store-keeper dealing in silks, woollens and cottons.
SUNDAY, JULY 27TH.
Very noisy people during the night, apparently great confusion and danger in passing the Rapids. Rose ¼ past six, hazy almost the first time. Introduced by W. M. to a Mr. Buchanan a surveyor. 160 emigrants on the Canada, 12 unable to pay their fare, and their boxes taken as security. A heavy shower of rain cooled the air. Arrived at Montreal at half past four; saw the steamer sailing off to La Prairie though the Captain told me it did not go on Sunday evenings till five. Several of us were very anxious to be getting on to La Prairie; engaged a boat for two dollars more; had a written agreement. Very much troubled not to find the lady and her son and daughter ready for the boat; set off to meet them, came back determined to go on with Mr. Ready as it was getting late. The boatman came to tell me they were all waiting of me; got my luggage on board; a very narrow boat; found a good deal of agitation in the Rapids and the water nearly coming over, but we were all pretty experienced in sailing. On landing was surprised to find the four passengers with their luggage and four boatmen had crossed the St. Lawrence in a canoe. Two calashes were brought up, also a stage with four horses which had been sent in consequence of the steamer not waiting as they expected a signal from the Canada. The Captain behaved very ill, first promising to be in at four, and then telling us it did not sail till five. However, we engaged to go on to St. John's for two dollars. Arrived after twelve.
MONDAY, JULY 28TH.
Rested very well and rose at seven; a misty morning. Saw some fish, perch, etc., just taken. Sailed at six in the Franklin, the very nicest boat I have ever seen. A delightful morning; leaving the sick cities, Quebec and Montreal, and hastening home in good health and spirits. The Lake Champlain, only about 80 yards wide, and the shores low, covered with brushwood. Paid for passage to Ticonderoga 4½ dollars. The dinner very good, five or six servants with turban caps. The dessert consisted of nuts, almonds, walnuts and raisins; all the spoons, etc., of silver; altogether the very neatest boat I ever saw. The Captain's room fitted with excellent portraits, in another part all sorts of advertisements, with a beautiful desk for the public use. Asked a dollar for a bottle of porter, then said half a dollar. Took a pint of port wine, charged one dollar; an impudent fellow with one of the waiters saw the bottle, he filled up his glass and drank it off without once looking at me. At Plattsburg on Lake Champlain an American officer came on board and allowed our portmanteaus to pass, on condition they contained only clothes. Very delightful scenery; beautiful islands with distant mountains on each side; a broad road up the mountain; an avalanche. Went on shore at Burlington and had a delightful bathe, the water pleasantly warm and a sandy slope. Quite a crowd at tea so had to attend the second course. Lay down in a berth till 12; then looked after luggage which I found to be all safely locked up; everything managed in the most admirable style; the sailors all in uniform and the boat let down with a rope, so that passengers could be landed with scarcely stopping the boat. At Ticonderoga the greatest hurry for beds; an offer made to pay for double-bedded rooms, so resigned myself to chairs: afterwards had a comfortable bedroom.