Rose at seven and breakfasted on nothing good but eggs. Passed manufactures of cotton and woollen. Arrived at Worcester at half past one; the neatest town I have ever seen; every house appeared to be newly painted white, and with very pretty gardens. The road afterwards hilly with uneven places where the water gets off the road; the last twenty miles more even; a good part of the way from Albany is stony, and hence there are more walls; in many places the stones are too large to remove and the smaller ones are piled upon them in heaps. I got up to sit with the driver after breakfast, but was forced in by the sun; it became cloudy, and I mounted again, and remained out till the last four miles when it became much colder and was nearly dark. The two last stages, and one yesterday were twenty miles. Both days have been highly favourable, not meeting dust and what there was carried away by the wind. Arrived at Boston half past eight; could not get tea at this great house—took milk and bread.
SUNDAY, AUGUST 3RD.
Rose before seven; after breakfast read the paper and then set out for Dr. Channing's Chapel. Found that he was at Newport, Rhode Island, during the summer and only preaching occasionally during the winter. His colleague Mr. Gannett was gone to an Ordination at Buffalo. Mr. Furniss of Philadelphia was to preach. I set off to hear Mr. Greenwood at King's Chapel. He read a form of prayer and a stranger preached from Matthew v; but a poor sermon. Mr. G. read the service of the Lord's Supper; after kneeling, he partook of the bread and wine, then distributed the elements to the communicants, all was very earnestly done at the altar. At the door I was glad to see black women permitted. In the afternoon I went to hear a Mr. Lothrop and was again disappointed, but was pleased by a Mr. Young who preached a discourse on "Faith" from John 20 chap. 29 v., mentioned Columbus. Much pleased by a plain and simple address to the Sunday scholars by Mr. Grant. All the three places of worship very nice buildings; the galleries not wide and supported by double pillars, good organ and good singing but not much joined in by the congregation; well attended, but hardly by any poor persons. In the evening went to hear a Mr. Taylor who had been a sailor. His text Exodus v, verse 2.
MONDAY, AUGUST 4TH.
Got up at six and walked through the Mall, and into the State House and returned to breakfast. Met with a plain and respectable Englishman. Called upon Mr. John Lee, a very respectable old gentleman 76 years old, chatted half an hour and agreed to meet again at three. Returned to the Hotel and ordered a gig for Mount Vernon Church. It came without driver and I had to drive and thread my way through the city. Passed over Cambridge 7810 feet long, walked up and down the cemetery which is superior in locality to Pere la Chaise at Paris, but has not the commanding view. In one part a great many beautiful flowers. The monuments have usually the family name and the Christian name on another side of the obelisk; a truly melancholy walk; a beautiful monument to the memory of Spurzheim[24]. I allowed the horse to have his own way back and he brought me at once near the hotel. At three I called upon Mr. Lee and we had a delightful walk to the wharf and stores; a magnificent range of buildings. Saw a contrivance for hauling ships to be repaired; the machinery turned by horses. Passed over a long wooden bridge to Bunker Hill; from the Monument[25], partly built, we had a fine view of the town, and returned over another bridge. Invited to take tea with Mr. Lee, but excused myself on account of writing a letter to Mr. B. on which I was engaged all evening. Left it in the care of Mrs. Livingstone.
TUESDAY, AUGUST 5TH.
Rose before six, got café au lait at my request. Found the Lowell stage would soon be here; though a mail coach it goes up and down collecting passengers; this enabled me to see more of the town; more than an hour in getting out of it. Took a seat with the driver and though a very hot day found a breeze when in motion; the last fourteen miles, partly a sandy road, we had six horses. Saw three hop plantations; arrived at Lowell at eleven; took my return at two. Went straight to the carpet manufactory but found strangers not admitted; at length I was introduced to the manager, a Scotchman, upon my assuring him that I was in no way connected with such business he took me through the spinning and weaving rooms; a beautiful shearing machine, also the winding effected the same way, the carpets woven by cards as the bed quilts in England; the Brussels from bobbins with weights attached to each thread and tumbling over wires introduced. The rugs done by locks of coloured thread tied into the warp, and then hemp or wadding driven up by the lathe. So extremely hot that I remained in the first shade I came to till near two o'clock. Very many handsome-sized cotton factories, the machinery all turned by the river Merrimack. Work begins at five, then ½ hour for breakfast, ¾ of an hour for dinner, stopping at seven, making 12¾ hours each day, and Saturdays the same; the boys and men well dressed, the girls and women in neat gowns and hoods. The bells larger and of different tones as if for worship. The coach promised for two, did not arrive so I came off in another and got to Boston at half past seven. Paid for fare both ways 2½ dollars. This has been one of the most disagreeable hot dusty days I have experienced. Found a letter this morning from James Dean.
WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 6TH.
Rose a little before 6, took a glass of milk, walked to the bath; found it a dirty poor concern, not more than half a yard deep as the tide was out. Called at Mr. Lee's, found his son from England who was kind enough to walk with me in the town. We went off to the Athenaeum which is well stored with books. Saw the English Statutes presented by the British Government; then into the News Room at the Exchange; then to the dry dock, a substantial handsome dock; then to the machine shop where they were making blocks, etc. Saw a large ship the Columbus on the stocks, also the Constitution[26] with Jackson's head cut off; then to the prison where they are occupied in masonry, shoe-making, tailoring, brush-making and cabinet work; the prisoners are not suffered to speak; and they eat their food in their cells. Dined with Mr. Lee: delicious lemonade: several dined within, supposed boarders. Set off to Nahant at 3; a beautiful sail among the numerous islands, saw ten seals on a sandbank. Arrived at 4½, a bold rocky coast; the water dashing between the cliffs. A dispute with another steamer, ours turned about to sternward to get a landing by running between, but the other shied off and prevented a collision. Got back half past seven; a beautiful vine (Isabella) only six years planted and many hundred of branches. Also a Black Hamburgh two years planted and bearing. Took leave of this interesting family, particularly the old gentleman, 76 years of age and quite cheerful; the son resides at Birmingham and I may see him again. On getting to Tremont House I asked for a glass of milk, but was disappointed, it having been drank up. Got a letter from Mr. Lee to Dr. Channing; after getting to bed the fire bells began ringing all over the city.