TUESDAY, AUGUST 12TH.
Awoke several times, and got up at half past five. Found all my clothes quite damp, excepting my trousers which I had placed in my berth, and gave coat, waistcoat and shirt to be dried. Got down my portmanteau and put on other things. Went on deck at six, found we were nearly 30 miles from New York; after some time I went down and found my clothes dry and put on the shirt. On coming up we were passing Hell Gate[28], a very narrow and rocky passage. Some good country houses: a large new jail. A fine view of the city and shipping; every now and then a jutting wharf about the length of a ship. Arrived at New York at eight; in walking to the Post Office with Mrs. Channing's letter, I met with Thomas Dean, and got my two letters from Mr. Baker and C. D. Found J. Dean looking thinner. We walked through some auction stores to J. Hulme's son-in-law; he keeps a very large Book-Stall; hence I entered an auction of watches, afterwards of wine, etc.; then to the Exchange, but soon got tired of standing to read the papers. Read over again my letters; devoured two peaches; was charged 3d. T. D. kindly invited me to his house; had purchased one for 11,000 dollars; would have given 12 as he considered it worth 13 or 14 thousand dollars. Found a splendid house; a black waiter; dined in the basement storey; silver forks. James drove me out in a phaeton; called for my portmanteau, and then took me to another part of the city; returned to tea, afterwards went to Niblos Gardens. Had dinner and soon after getting home there was thunder and some rain. Mrs. D. much as when in England, their little girl much indulged; did not see the infant.
WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 13TH.
Rose at five, set off for Rockaway bathing place. The horse sadly infested with flies which made it bleed in many places. Passed a large swamp, and here first met with that troublesome insect the mosquito. Arrived at 10; a very large hotel containing 186 rooms. Sat down and read with much pleasure the remains of a Bolton Chronicle. Set off to bathe; the sand beautifully white, the breakers very large in consequence of the thunder and wind last night. Could hardly swim but amused myself in standing against the breakers. Troubled with mosquitoes and also a little pain in my ear, which had continued a day or two and prevented me from going on my journey. At half past two music announced dinner, the ladies were accompanied by the gentlemen. Found our places at the entrance into the room being the last comers. A large bill of fare particularly of wines; we had a bottle of claret and I ate a head of corn, and relished it better than before. About 160 persons. After dinner we had a pleasant ramble down the shore talking over old matters at home. Returned to tea, again serenaded by music; then read from English papers; walked in to see them dance: went to bed at half past nine. At noon on the stage coming up one of the horses fell down, overdone with fatigue and heat; got up and fell down several times and died in about half an hour. A limit to their sufferings. Our room No. 155.
THURSDAY, AUGUST 14TH.
Rose at five; a pleasant morning; found the breakers still more than I expected. On the road to Jamaica terribly vexed by mosquitoes; stockings coloured with blood. Several farms for sale; overstocked I guessed with these terrible insects. Got breakfast near Jamaica. Washed and took a little refreshment. Set off in one of the stages and arrived at New York a little before 12; called on R. Crook but did not meet with him. Walked into Broadway was asked 2/7 for cotton gloves; purchased a book of psalm-tunes for 1 dollar. Went to see the great hotel building in Broadway; about 100 men at work, most of them Irish. Went with J. D. through the register office where an account is kept of all the titles (to estates?) and mortgages. Rode to dinner in one of the stages, the usual charge 6d. but a quantity of tickets may be purchased at half price. The distance of the stage about two miles; experienced great inconvenience from the excessive itching occasioned by the mosquito bites in the morning. After dinner we set out to see James's horse; found it not well and no wonder, the stable in a cellar; the stalls narrow; a suffocating spot; then walked across what is called East River to see the dry docks; the ships are placed upon a frame, and then by means of an endless chain wound up on to the shore to be repaired. The tides here seldom vary more than three or four feet; on our return found Jackson and his friend Ingham; they stopped two hours laughing and talking all the time.
FRIDAY, AUGUST 15TH.
Got up at half past six; a good night with only one scratch, though a good deal of inflammation most of the morning. After breakfast played some of the psalm tunes. At 9 set off with J. D. to the end of the island, a very pleasant drive and beautiful opening into the Hudson. Bathed in a rather muddy creek. Pulled an apple on going which we liked, so on returning got a further supply. Some men fishing and others gathering oysters. Got a comfortable dinner; then drove on the other side towards Harlem a fine spacious road.
Many trotters in their sulkies and others driving very fast. Appearance of a storm. Only charged 2 dollars for the horse. Played several psalm tunes. Engaged a vehicle to take me to the steam boat in the morning. Went sadly to bed. Packed up the needful; besides the mosquitoes, there was a little grey insect like a louse that bit very sharply; still itching and swelled from the mosquitoes.