Early on the following morning, numerous visitors paid their respects to Hateeta, and were introduced in due form to the Europeans, who felt the length of time spent in salutations quite fatiguing, and so absurd in their eyes, that they could scarcely at times retain their gravity. The visitors were mostly residents of the city, and all were decorated in their best. There were also a sedateness and gravity in the appearance of all, which the dress tended greatly to augment.
In the afternoon, they visited the sultan. Mats had been spread in the castle in a small anti-chamber. The old man was seated, but rose up to receive them, and welcomed them to his city. He apologized for not waiting on them, but said he was sick, and had been very little out for some time. He had guinea-worm, and cataract was forming in his eyes. He was dressed in a nearly worn-out robe, and trousers of the same colour, and round his head was wrapped an old piece of yellow coarse cloth for a turban. Notwithstanding the meanness of the dress, there was something pleasing and prepossessing in his countenance, and such as made them quite as much at home, as if in their tents. They presented him with a sword, with which he was highly pleased. Hateeta wished it had been a Bornouse; but they had none with them which they considered sufficiently good. They were led away by the title sultan, having no idea that the Tuaricks were so vain; for they used to fill them with high notions of the wealth and greatness of the people of Ghraat.
On the whole, their interview was highly pleasing, and every one seemed much pleased with their visitors. The old sultan showed them every kindness, and they had every reason to believe him sincere in his wishes. After their visit, they called at the house of Lameens, son of the kadi. He was a young man of excellent character, and universally respected. His father was then in Ghadames, arranging, with some of the other principal inhabitants, the affairs of the community. He had left directions with his son, to show the strangers every attention. His house was neatly fitted up, and carpets spread on a high bed, on which the visitors seated themselves. Several of the people who were in the castle came along with them, and by the assistance of those, who could speak Arabic, they were able to keep up a tolerably good conversation. On inquiring about the Tuarick letters, they found the same sounds given them as they had before heard from others. They were here at the fountain-head, but were disappointed at not being able to find a book in the Tuarick language; they were informed, that there was not one extant.
In the evening Hateeta's kinswomen returned. They were greatly amused, and laughed heartily at their visitors blundering out a few Tuarick words. It may be well supposed they were very unfit companions for the ladies, as they spoke no other language than their own, and the strangers knew very little of it. Still, however, they got on very well, and were mutually pleased. Dr. Oudney could scarcely refrain laughing several times, at the grave manner which Clapperton assumed. He had been tutored by Hateeta, and fully acted up to his instructions; no Tuarick could have done it better. Their friend Hateeta was anxious that they should shine, if not make an impression on the hearts of the ladies, and therefore read a number of lectures to Clapperton, as to the manner in which he should deport himself. He was directed not to laugh nor sing, but to look as grave as possible, which Hateeta said would be sure to please the grave Tuaricks. The liveliness of the women, their freeness with the men, and the marked attention the latter paid them, formed a striking contrast with other Mahommedan states.
They now proceeded to take a circuit of the town, and during their walk they fell in with a number of females, who had come out to see them. All were free and lively, and riot at all deferred by the presence of the men. Several of them had fine features, but only one or two could be called beautiful. Many of the natives came out of their houses as they passed along, and cordially welcomed them to their town. It was done with so much sincerity and good heartedness, that they could not but be pleased and highly flattered.
In the evening they heard a numerous band of females, singing at a distance, which was continued till near midnight. The women were principally those of the country. This custom is very common among the people, and is one of the principal amusements in the mountain recesses. Hateeta said they go out when their work is finished, in the evening, and remain till near midnight, singing and telling stories; return home, take supper, and go to bed.
CHAPTER XXI.
Dr. Oudney and his companions now determined to return to Mourzouk, where they arrived in November, and on the 29th of the same month, they again departed, accompanied by nearly all those of the town, who could muster horses; the camels had moved early in the day, and at Zerzow, they found the tents pitched. From Zerzow to Traghan there is a good high road, with frequent incrustations of salt. A marabout of great sanctity, is the principal person in Traghan, as his father was before him. After being crammed as it were by the hospitality of this marabout, they left Traghan for Maefen, an assemblage of date huts, with but one house. The road to this place lies over a mixture of sand and salt, having a curious and uncommon appearance. The path, by which all the animals move for some miles, is a narrow space, or strip, worn smooth, bearing a resemblance both in appearance and hardness to ice.
Quitting Maefen, they quickly entered on a desert plain, and after a dreary fourteen hours march for camels, they arrived at Mestoota, a maten or resting place, where the camels found some little grazing, from a plant called ahgul. Starting at sunrise, they had another fatiguing day, over the same kind of desert, without seeing one living thing that did not belong to the kafila, not a bird, nor even an insect; the sand is beautifully fine, round, and red. It is difficult to give the most distant idea of the stillness and beauty of a night scene, on a desert of this description. The distance between the resting places is not sufficiently great, for the dread of want of water to be alarmingly felt, and the track, though a sandy one, is well known to the guides. The burning heat of the day is succeeded by cool and refreshing breezes, and the sky ever illumined by large and brilliant stars, or an unclouded moon. By removing the loose and pearl-like sand, to the depth of a few inches, the effects of the sunbeams of the day are not perceptible, and a most soft and refreshing couch is easily formed. The ripple of the driving sand resembles that of a slow and murmuring stream, and after escaping from the myriads of fleas, which day and night persecute you, in the date-bound valley in which Mourzouk stands, the luxury of an evening of this description is an indescribable relief. Added to the solemn stillness, so peculiarly striking and impressive, there is an extraordinary echo in all deserts, arising probably from the closeness and solidity of a sandy soil, which does not absorb the sound. They now arrived at Gabrone. The Arabs watch for a sight of the high date trees, which surround this town, as sailors look for land, and after discovering these land marks, they shape their course accordingly.
Here Major Denham joined his companions, whom he found in a state of health but ill calculated for undertaking a long and tedious journey. During the stay of the major at Mourzouk, he had suffered from a severe attack of fever, which had kept him for ten days in his bed, and although considerably debilitated, yet he was strong in comparison with his associates. Dr. Oudney was suffering much from his cough, and still complaining of his chest. Mr. Clapperton's ague had not left him, and Hillman had been twice attacked so violently, as to be given over by the doctor. They all, however, looked forward anxiously to proceeding on their journey, and fancied that change of scene and warmer weather, would bring them all round.