Occurrences from the departure of Almagro for Chili, to his capture by Pizarro, being the first part of the civil wars in Peru.
Inconsequence of the agreement between Pizarro and Almagro, which was ratified on the 12th of June 1535, Almagro soon afterwards set out upon the proposed discovery and conquest at the head of five hundred and seventy men, partly cavalry and part infantry; for so great were the hopes of acquiring riches in this expedition, that several who had already acquired establishments in Peru, abandoned their houses, lands, and Indians, to follow the fortunes of Almagro[1]. Juan, de Saavedra was sent on before the main body of the army with a detachment of a hundred men; and, in the course of his march through that province which has since been called Los Charcas, he met with some Indians on their road from Chili to Peru, who were going to pay their homage to the Inca. Almagro having along with him a body of two hundred men, both horse and foot, made a march of two hundred and fifty leagues, reducing the whole country in his way, till he arrived in the district of the Chichas, where he learnt that he was followed by a body of fifty Spaniards commanded by Niguerol de Ulloa. Almagro commanded that party to join him, and continued his march towards Chili, which is 350 leagues beyond the province, of Chichas, reducing all the tribes on his route to submission. Almagro halted at this place with half his troops, and sent on the rest under Gomez de Aivarado, who proceeded sixty leagues farther; but was forced to return to Almagro, in consequence of the severity of the weather.
[1] Though not mentioned directly in the text, it appears that Almagro knew of and intended to conquer the country of Chili, and that he chose to march by the high country of Peru, through the great elevated valley of the lake Titicaca, probably the highest inhabited land of South America. His object was in all probability to avoid the extensive desert of Atacama, which divides the plain of Peru from Chili.--E.
After the departure of Almagro from Cuzco, the Inca Manco Capac and his, brother Villaoma entered into a plot for massacring all the Spaniards in Peru on a certain day. Manco Capac had engaged execute to that part of the conspiracy which had for its object the destruction of Almagro and his troops, but which he was unable to accomplish. What was done by his brother will be related afterwards. Philipillo, the Peruvian interpreter who has been formerly mentioned, was acquainted with this conspiracy, on which account he made his escape from Almagro, and being pursued and taken was condemned to be quartered. Before his execution, he confessed that he had unjustly procured the death of Atahualpa, that he might thereby secure to himself one of the wives of that unhappy prince, of whom he was enamoured.
About two months after the arrival of Almagro in Chili, one of his captains named Ruy Dias came to him with a reinforcement of a hundred men, and informed him that all the natives of Peru had revolted and had massacred most of the Spaniards in that country. Almagro was much grieved at this intelligence, and resolved immediately to return, that he might chastise the revolters and restore the country to obedience; meaning afterwards to send one of his captains with a sufficient force to reduce Chili. He accordingly set out on his return, and was met on his way by Rodrigo Orgognez, who brought him a reinforcement of twenty-five men, and was soon afterwards joined by Juan de Herrada with a farther reinforcement of a hundred. Herrada brought him likewise the letters patent of the king, by which he was appointed governor of two hundred leagues of country beyond the boundaries assigned to Pizarro. This new government which was granted to Almagro was directed to be named the New Kingdom of Toledo, and that of Pizarro, the New Kingdom of Castille. Having said at the commencement of this section, that Almagro carried with him from Cuzco on this expedition a force of 570 Spanish troops; it must be remarked that such was his intention, but that in reality he had only 200 men along with him, after which his army was made up nearly to the intended number by the different reinforcements of which we have made mention.
In the march of Almagro into Chili, his army suffered excessive hardships from hunger and thirst. Besides their other fatigues, they had often to encounter Indians of great stature, clothed in the skins of sea-wolves and seals, who used the bow and arrow with great strength and address. But the most severe circumstance during this march was the intense cold which they encountered in passing over some mountains covered with snow. In particular, several of the soldiers belonging to Ruy Dias and a good many horses were frozen to death; and so excessive was the cold, that when Almagro returned towards Cuzco five months afterwards, several of the bodies of those who had been frozen to death were found upright and leaning against the rocks, still holding the bridles of their horses, which were likewise frozen, and their flesh still remained as sweet and uncorrupted as if they had only just expired, insomuch that the troops used the flesh of these horses as food on their return to Peru. In some parts of these deserts where there was no snow, the Spaniards were reduced to great straits from want of water; on which account they had to make bags or leather bottles of the skins of sheep, in which to carry water for their supply.
It is proper to remark, that the Peruvian sheep are much larger animals than those of Europe, and are used as beasts of burden. They resemble in some measure the camel in their shape, except that they have no hunches on their backs, and are able to carry a load of a hundred pounds or more, with which they are able to travel four or five leagues a-day. The Spaniards even sometimes rode on their backs. When fatigued, they immediately lie down, and it is impossible to make them rise again by any means whatever, neither blows nor kindness are of any avail, and it becomes necessary to unload them. When a person rides on one of these animals, and endeavours to urge it on when weary, it turns round its head towards the man, blowing upon him a most offensive breath mixed with a kind of stinking dew, which seems to proceed from the contents of its stomach. This is a most useful and profitable animal, as besides serving as a beast of burden, its wool is excellent and very fine; more especially that species which is called pacas, which has very long wool. These animals are supported at very little expence while on a journey, requiring only a very small allowance of maize, and they can subsist four or five days without drinking. Their flesh is well tasted and wholesome, and equal to the best fat mutton of Spain; and it is accordingly sold in all the butcher-markets of Peru. At the first settlement of the Spaniards in this country, before the establishment of regular markets, when any person killed one of these sheep, his neighbours used to participate, and they in their turns killed others, and divided them among the neighbours.
In some of the level plains of Peru there is a species of ostrich, which is taken in the following manner. Several horsemen place themselves in ambush, while others likewise on horseback pursue the ostriches and endeavour to drive them towards their companions who are concealed. These birds, although they are unable to rise in flight into the air, go with astonishing swiftness, partly by running, and partly by means of short flights close to the ground, insomuch that a man on horseback is altogether unable to get up with them, so that it requires stratagem to kill or take them alive.
In Chili there are some rivers which have water only during the day, and are entirely dry during the night. This is owing to the heat of the sun melting the snow on the mountains by day, by which temporary rivers, or torrents rather, are formed by day, which cease again at night when the cold puts a stop to the melting of the snow. When we have got about 500 leagues along the coast from Peru towards the south, or in the lat. of about 30° S. rain is often met with, and the winds are no longer so regular as nearer the line, but blow sometimes one way and sometimes another, as in Spain and other countries of Europe. Chili is a tolerably well peopled country, and resembles Peru in being divisible into two districts, the plain and the mountain, and its coast is considerably more indented by gulfs and bays than that of Peru[2]. It enjoys the vicissitudes of summer and winter nearly as in Spain, but at opposite times of the year, the winter of Chili being at the same time with the Spanish summer, and vice versa. The pole seen from that country, which is directly opposite our Arctic or north pole, is only marked by a kind of small white cloud or nebula, which is seen after sunset in that direction in which astronomers have placed the antartic or south pole. There is likewise seen a constellation of seven stars, four of them being in form of a cross, followed by three others, resembling the lesser bear of the astronomers which turns round the north polar star. These seven stars near the south pole are situated somewhat like those of the ursa minor, except that the four which form the cross are nearer each other than those of the north pole which are seen in our hemisphere. Our north pole is lost sight of somewhat less than 200 leagues to the south of Panama, under the equator; from whence, or a little beyond, on either side of the line, these two constellations may be seen when they rise a little above the poles of the horizon. On the south side of the equinoctial line, navigators are only able to see the four stars near the antarctic pole which form the cross, until they reach the thirtieth degree of south latitude, after which they get sight of the other three stars which form this constellation.
[2] From the desert of Atacama in lat 25° S. to the island of Chiloe in about lat. 42° S. Chili Proper, between the Pacific ocean and the western ridge of the Andes, stretches about 1100 English miles nearly north and south by an average breadth of about 140 miles.--E.