When we bore away, I steered W. by S. with a fine breeze easterly. I proposed to proceed first to Middleburgh, or Eooa, thinking, if the wind continued favourable, that we had food enough on board for the cattle to last till we should reach that island. But, about noon next day, those faint breezes that had attended and retarded us so long, again returned; and I found it necessary to haul more to the N. to get into the latitude of Palmerston's and Savage Islands, discovered in 1774, during my last voyage, that, if necessity required it, we might have recourse to them.
This day, in order to save our water, I ordered the still to be kept at work from six o'clock in the morning to four in the afternoon, during which time we procured from thirteen to sixteen gallons of fresh water. There has been lately made some improvement, as they are pleased to call it, of this machine, which, in my opinion, is much for the, worse.
These light breezes continued till the 10th, when we had, for some hours, the wind blowing fresh from the N. and N.N.W., being then in the latitude of 18° 38', and longitude 198° 24' E. In the afternoon we had some thunder squalls from the S. attended with heavy rain; of which water we collected enough to fill five puncheons. After these squalls had blown over, the wind came round to the N.E. and N.W., being very unsettled both in strength and in position till about noon the next day, when it fixed at N.W. and N.N.W. and blew a fresh breeze, with fair weather.
Thus were we persecuted with a wind in our teeth whichever way we directed our course; and we had the additional mortification to find here those very winds which we had reason to expect 8° or 10° farther S. They came too late, for I durst not trust their continuance; and the event proved that I judged right.
At length, at day-break in the morning of the 13th, we saw Palmerston Island, bearing W. by S. distant about five leagues. However, we did not get up with it till eight o'clock the next morning. I then sent four boats, three from the Resolution and one from the Discovery, with an officer in each, to search the coast for the most convenient landing-place. For now we were under an absolute necessity of procuring from this island some food for the cattle, otherwise we must have lost them.
What is comprehended under the name of Palmerston's Island, is a group of small islets, of which there are in the whole nine or ten, lying in a circular direction, and connected together, by a reef of coral rocks. The boats first examined the south-easternmost of the islets which compose this group, and, failing there, ran down to the second, where we had the satisfaction to see them land. I then bore down with the ships till abreast of the place, and there we kept standing off and on; for no bottom was to be found to anchor upon, which was not of much consequence, as the party who had landed from our boats were the only human beings upon the island.
About one o'clock one of the boats came on board, laden with scurvy-grass and young cocoa-nut trees, which, at this time, was a feast for the cattle. The same boat brought a message from Mr Gore, who commanded the party, informing me that there was plenty of such produce upon the island, as also of the wharra tree, and some cocoa-nuts. This determined me to get a good supply of these articles before I quitted this station, and, before evening, I went ashore in a small boat, accompanied by Captain Clerke.
We found every body hard at work, and the landing place to be in a small creek, formed by the reef, of something more than a boat's length in every direction, and covered from the force of the sea by rocks projecting out on each side of it. The island is scarcely a mile in circuit, and not above three feet higher than the level of the sea. It appeared to be composed entirely of a coral sand, with a small mixture of blackish mould, produced from rotten vegetables. Notwithstanding this poor soil, it is covered with trees and bushes of the same kind as at Wanooa-ette, though with less variety; and amongst these are some cocoa palms. Upon the trees or bushes that front the sea, or even farther in, we found a great number of men-of-war birds, tropic birds, and two sorts of boobies, which at this time were laying their eggs, and so tame, that they suffered us to take them off with our hands. Their nests were only a few sticks loosely put together; and the tropic birds laid their eggs on the ground, under the trees. These differ much from the common sort, being entirely of a most splendid white, slightly tinged with red, and having the two long tail-feathers of a deep crimson or blood colour. Of each sort our people killed a considerable number; and, though not the most delicate food, they were acceptable enough to us who had been long confined to a salt diet, and who, consequently, could not but be glad of the most indifferent variety. We met with vast numbers of red crabs, creeping about every where amongst the trees; and we caught several fish that had been left in holes upon the reef when the sea retired.
At one part of the reef, which looks into, or bounds, the lake that is within, there was a large bed of coral, almost even with the surface, which afforded, perhaps, one of the most enchanting prospects that nature has any where produced. Its base was fixed to the shore, but reached so far in that it could not be seen; so that it seemed to be suspended in the water, which deepened so suddenly, that at the distance of a few yards there might be seven or eight fathoms. The sea was at this time quite unruffled; and the sun shining bright, exposed the various sorts of coral in the most beautiful order; some parts branching into the water with great luxuriance; others lying collected in round balls, and in various other figures;--all which were greatly heightened by spangles of the richest colours, that glowed from a number of large clams, which were every where interspersed: But the appearance of these was still inferior to that of the multitude of fishes that glided gently along, seemingly with the most perfect security. The colours of the different sorts were the most beautiful that can be imagined, the yellow, blue, red, black, etc. far exceeding any thing that art can produce. Their various forms, also, contributed to increase the richness of this submarine grotto, which could not be surveyed without a pleasing transport, mixed however with regret, that a work so stupendously elegant should be concealed in a place where mankind could seldom have an opportunity of rendering the praises justly due to so enchanting a scene.[156]
[Footnote 156: How beautifully does Captain Cook's description illustrate those lines of Dr Young--
--Such blessings Nature pours,
O'erstock'd mankind enjoy but half her stores;
In distant wilds, by human eyes unseen,
She rears her flowers, and spreads her velvet green:
Pure gurgling rills the lonely desert trace,
And waste their music on the savage race.Gray has a similar thought in His inimitable elegy, which every reader will immediately recollect. Can it be imagined, that nature, which does nothing in vain, nor indeed without a reference to the being who is eminently signalized as lord of the lower creation, has been at pains to decorate these spots, but in anticipation, if one may use the expression, of the praise and enjoyment which their loveliness will some time or other occasion? He that remembers the nature and formation of the coral isles in the southern-ocean, will at once conjecture that the Great Architect is raising up the materials of a new world, which, from aught we can yet perceive, will not less indicate his power and goodness than that which we now inhabit. How readily, then, can imagination fashion out the future destiny of our globe, on the supposition that the conflagration by which its presently inhabited portions are expected to be destroyed, shall not be so complete as to annihilate it from the universe! Or, believing what is usually understood, by that event, on the authority of scripture, how clearly can reason deduce from present appearances certain minor, but nevertheless immense, changes, which it may undergo previous to this final dissolution! But the reader, it is probable, will not chuse to venture on so terrific an excursion, and there is a motive for caution with respect to it, with which it may not be amiss to apprise the too zealous enquirer. The fact is, that none of the causes which we know to be now operating on our globe, seem at all adequate to account for all the changes it has already undergone. We may, therefore, very fairly infer, that an indefinite allowance must be granted to exterior interference of some sort or other, the agency of which may altogether subvert whatever is now known to exist.--See Cuvier's Essay, lately published at Edinburgh.--E.]