Thus the fine prospect we had of getting to the north vanished in a moment. I stood on till nine o'clock, for so long it was light, and then the point above mentioned bore N.E. 1/2 E., about three miles distant. Behind this point is a river, the entrance of which seemed to be a mile broad; but I can say nothing as to its depth. The water appeared to be discoloured, as upon shoals, but a calm would have given it the same aspect. It seemed to have a winding direction, through the great flat that lies between the chain of mountains to the S.E., and the hills to the N.W. It must abound with salmon, as we saw many leaping in the sea before the entrance; and some were found in the maws of cod which we had caught. The entrance of this river, distinguished by the name of Bristol River, lies in the latitude of 58° 27', and in the longitude of 201° 55'.[1]
Having spent the night in making short boards, at day-break on the morning of the 10th, we made sail to the W.S.W., with a gentle breeze at N.E. At eleven o'clock, we thought the coast to the N.W. terminated in a point, bearing N.W. by W.; and as we had now deepened the water from nine to fourteen fathoms, I steered for the point, ordering the Discovery to keep ahead. But before she had run a mile, she made a signal for shoal water. At that instant we had the depth of seven fathoms; and before we could get the ship's head the other way, had less than five; but the Discovery had less than four.
We stood back to the N.E. three or four miles; but finding there was a strong tide or current setting to the W.S.W., that is toward the shoal, we anchored in ten fathoms, over a bottom of fine sand. Two hours after we had anchored, the water had fallen two feet and upward; which proved, that it was the tide of ebb that came from, the river above mentioned. We also examined some of the water which we had taken up, and found that it was not half so salt as common sea-water. This furnished another proof that we were before a large river.
At four in the afternoon, the wind shifting to S.W., we weighed, and stood to the southward, with boats ahead, sounding; and passed over the south end of the shoal in six fathoms water. We then got into thirteen and fifteen; in which last depth we anchored, at half-past eight; some part of the chain of mountains, on the S.E. shore, in sight, bearing S.E. 1/2 S., and the westernmost land, on the other shore, N.W. We had, in the course of the day, seen high land, bearing N. 60° W., by estimation twelve leagues distant.
Having weighed next morning, at two o'clock, with a light breeze at S.W. by W., we plied to windward till nine; when, judging the flood-tide to be now made against us, we came to an anchor in twenty-four fathoms. We lay here till one, when the fog, which had prevailed this morning, dispersing, and the tide making in our favour, we weighed, and plied to the S.W. in the evening, the wind was very variable, and we had some thunder. We had heard none before since our arrival upon the coast; and this was at a great distance.
The wind having settled again in the S.W. quarter, in the morning of the 12th, we stood to the N.W., and at ten saw the continent. At noon, it extended from N.E. by N., to N.W. 1/4 W.; and an elevated hill bore N.N.W., ten leagues distant. This proved to be an island, which, from its figure, obtained the name of Round Island. It lies in the latitude of 58° 37', and in the longitude of 200° 6', and seven miles from the continent. In the evening, at nine, having stood to the northward to within three leagues of the shore, we tacked in fourteen fathoms water; the extremes of the coast bearing E.S.E. 1/2 E. and W. The wind veering to the N.W. enabled us to make a good stretch along shore till two o'clock in the morning, when we got all at once into six fathoms water, being at this time two leagues from the shore. After edging off a little, our depth gradually increased, and at noon we had twenty fathoms, when the latitude was 53° 13', and the longitude 199°. Round Island bore N., 5° E.; and the west extreme of the coast N., 16° W., seven leagues distant. It is an elevated point, which obtained the name of Calm Point, from our having calm weather when off it. To the N.W. of Round Island are two or three hillocks that appeared like islands; and it is possible they may be such; for we had but a distant view of the coast in this place.[2]
During the 14th and 15th our progress was slow, having little wind, and sometimes so thick a fog, that we could not see the length of the ship. The soundings were from fourteen to twenty-six fathoms; and we had tolerable success in fishing, catching cod, and now and then a few flat fish. At five in the morning of the 16th, the fog having cleared up, we found ourselves nearer the land than we expected. Calm Point bore N., 72° E., and a point eight leagues from it, in the direction of W., bore N., 30° E., three miles distant. Between these two points, the coast forms a bay, in some parts of which the land was hardly visible from the mast-head. There is also a bay on the N.W. side of this last point, between it and an elevated promontory, which at this time bore N., 36° W. sixteen miles distant. At nine, I sent Lieutenant Williamson to this promontory, with orders to land, and see what direction the coast took beyond it, and what the country produced; for from the ships it had but a barren appearance. We found here the flood-tide setting strongly to the N.W. along the coast. At noon it was high water, and we anchored in twenty-four fathoms, four leagues distant from the shore. At five in the afternoon, the tide making in our favour, we weighed, and drove with it, for there was no wind.
Soon after, Mr Williamson returned; and reported, that he had landed on the point, and having climbed the highest hill, found, that the farthest part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. He took possession of the country in his majesty's name; and left on the hill a bottle, in which was inscribed, on a piece of paper, the names of the ships, and the date of the discovery. The promontory, to which he gave the name of Cape Newenham, is a rocky point, of tolerable height, situated in the latitude of 58° 42', and in the longitude of 197° 36'. Over, or within it, are two elevated hills, rising one behind the other. The innermost, or easternmost, is the highest. The country, as far as Mr Williamson could see, produces neither tree nor shrub. The hills are naked; but on the lower grounds grew grass and other plants, very few of which were in flower. He saw no other animal but a doe and a fawn; and a dead sea-horse or cow upon the beach. Of these animals we had lately seen a great many.
As the coast takes a northerly direction from Cape Newenham, that Cape fixes the northern limit of the great bay and gulf lying before the river Bristol, which, in honour of the Admiral, Earl of Bristol, was named Bristol Bay. Cape Ooneemak is the south limit of this bay; and is distant eighty-two leagues from Cape Newenham, in the direction of S.S.W.[3]