You had better now leave the colt alone for half an hour or so, that he may become accustomed to his new quarters, after which you may endeavour to halter him. Select a halter with a long ‘shank’ (I prefer one about [10] ]eight feet in length, if it is much longer it will be an encumbrance), and tie a knot in it so as to prevent the nose-band pinching the jaws when the colt pulls at the rope on finding he is fast. Enter the loose box and close the door, hang the halter up out of the way of the colt, for it is better to approach him first without it. Avoid all unnecessary movements of the arms, as they will frighten the colt; when you take a step, do it slowly and quietly; if you only take one step in a minute, it will repay you; be deliberate, quiet, and gentle in every movement. The colt will now be watching you, not being able to understand what is going to happen. Speak to him soothingly, and approach gently and slowly. Watch him, do not stare in his eyes with a ferocious look, as some people do, under the impression that by so doing they can subdue the wildest animal. I have been told it will tame a lion or tiger, but I know it will not subdue a horse, for I have tried it. Do not fix your eye on any one spot on his body, but keep moving them from [11] ]his eyes to his ears, from his tail to his legs, in fact keep them running all over his body, for a man who knows a horse will understand by any one or combined movements of the above parts what sort of temper the colt is in, and also in what form he may expect an attack. For instance, if the colt shake his tail impatiently, and move one of his hind legs, you may look out for a kicker; if he arch his neck, lay his ears back, and take short snaps with his mouth, you must take care he does not bite you; if he paw viciously with his fore-feet, he probably will strike you if he can. I do not lay these rules down as facts which are invincible, but that they generally show in which direction the temper of the colt will be manifested, and thus the breaker-in can avoid being bitten, kicked, or struck if he keep his eyes open. As a rule, however, the man should imagine that every colt has each and every one of these tricks, and thus be prepared for any or all that may present themselves.

I cannot lay down any rule as to what [12] ]point on the body the hand should first touch; the best place undoubtedly is the shoulder, but you must use your own judgment after having watched the animal as to what part of his body is most accessible. Some colts will allow you to touch their heads directly, whilst others—and I think they are the most numerous—present their tails to you. Anyhow, in whichever part they seem most inclined to allow your first caresses, you must make it your rule to, by degrees, manipulate towards the head; which, after you have once been permitted to handle freely, you may consider the battle as won: for are not the senses of seeing, hearing, smelling, and sensation (I have no doubt that the sense of taste has also something to do with the matter) fully developed in the head? Thus, I make a point of advising my readers always to make an effort to handle the head, as by a more intimate and scrutinising inspection of your hand and body the colt is better enabled to arrive at a fair understanding with you.

Now that the colt has allowed you to [13] ]handle him to a certain extent, and has found you are not going to hurt him, you may leave his side (quietly and slowly as when you approached him) and get the halter you previously hung up; but avoid all hurry, jerking of the arms, &c. Hold the halter in the left hand with the ‘shank’ coiled up, the end of which you must grasp with the right hand. Approach the colt gently as before, speaking soothingly to him; place your right hand on any part of his body which is easiest got at, and work your way gently up to the neck; spend some time here handling him with your right hand containing the ‘shank’ end (I am here supposing the man to be on the near side of the animal, where he ought always to endeavour to be). Having reached the mane, pay the rope out slowly between your fingers, so that it will fall on the off side of the neck; when about eighteen inches to a couple of feet have been worked out through your fingers, you will see the end of the rope hanging down under the neck on the off side. You must now keep handling the [14] ]neck downwards until your hand is close to the rope’s end, when you must catch it quietly and tie it on the near side so as to form a noose round the animal’s neck. You can do all this easily with your one hand as it is all finger work, but if you have your left hand to help you there would in all probability be a good deal of elbow movement which would frighten the colt, make him move, and most likely all your manipulation would have to be gone through again.

Although as yet the halter is not on the colt’s head, it is virtually there; for now that you have a rope round his neck you have him to a certain extent in your power, and the rest is comparatively easy. The next move is to endeavour to place the halter on his head with your left hand, whilst you hold the rope in your right, thus have partial control over the animal. When the halter is near his nose he will ‘bob’ his head, move away, and feeling the constraint of the rope round his neck for the first time, will struggle and endeavour to [15] ]drag you to the other side of the box; but he will soon give in, and then you can easily place the halter on his head, after which untie the ‘shank’ round his neck, and all is finished.

You must now handle him, pet him, talk to him, and make much of him, but do not pull at the halter so as to make him fight. In half-an-hour or so you can slip a leather head-stall over the halter, and remove the latter. Some people may say: ‘Why do you not put the head-stall on first instead of taking all this time and bother to put a halter on?’ My answer is this: the halter is easiest put on, for the throat strap in the head-stall, unlike that of the bridle, is a fixture, and in placing it on the head this throat strap scrapes along the skin from the chin to the angle of the jaw, causing the colt uneasiness; and another drawback is, that in buckling on the head-stall the colt takes fright, jerks his head, and down drops the head-stall at your feet: but if you put it on over the halter the colt has by this time got used to seeing and feeling your hand about his head, and [16] ]also you can steady his head with the halter. Again, I think I hear the question: ‘Why do you take so much time and trouble to tie the halter shank round the colt’s neck when you might throw a lasso over his head in a second?’ My answer to this is, that I do not wish to frighten the colt, but by gentleness and kindness to make him repose confidence in me.

If you can spare time, after placing the head-stall on the colt’s head you may handle him for a time, then place water and food within his reach, and leave him to himself for the rest of the day to get accustomed to his new headdress.

On the following day you can handle him quietly in the loose box and offer him choice locks of hay or corn out of your hand to increase his intimacy with you, and then you may tie a rope to the head-stall and fasten him up. He is sure to struggle when he finds himself tied up, therefore you must not leave him; for if you have done your work properly he will have already recognised you as a friend [17] ]and not a foe, and will, when he hears you speaking to him soothingly and encouragingly, become quieter by degrees, and will soon cease to resist. Stay with him for half-an-hour and pet him, then release him, take off the rope from the head-stall, and leave him to himself. The day following you can repeat the above, and afterwards let him out in a yard or paddock by himself for exercise; do not stay with him, but let him amuse himself as he likes.

He has learnt his lessons very well so far, and will be all the more fit for future instruction if he is allowed a little recreation. There is no greater mistake than tying up a colt for half a day at a time; it makes him disgusted with his lessons and also tends to make him hate the sight of his instructor, which should always be guarded against. The wildest colt I ever saw when first handled, was after a fortnight’s handling so fond of his breaker-in that he would follow him about wherever he went in an open field, without having any allurements held out to him in the shape of corn &c.

[19]
]CHAPTER II.
LONGEING THE COLT.

LEADING IN CIRCLES, SEMICIRCLES, AND IN A STRAIGHT LINE—BITS USED FOR MOUTHING PURPOSES—MOUTHING BY MACHINERY VERSUS MECHANICAL MOUTHING—PLACING THE TACKLING ON THE COLT—TEACHING HIM TO PASS VEHICLES ETC.—SHOEING THE COLT.