It further deserves notice in this place, that the principal estuaries on the eastern coast of Great Britain, are those of the Friths of Moray and Forth, and the Rivers Humber, and Thames. The most material general purpose which would be answered by a Light upon the Bell Rock, is the opening of the Firth of Forth as a place of safety, in storms from south-east, east, and north-east. When mariners at sea are overtaken with a gale under such circumstances, they make for the most contiguous of these four inlets; but are often known to avoid the Forth, on account of this Rock, which, like another Cerberus, guards its entrance. Of this, a melancholy example occurred (which will long be remembered with that regret which never fails to accompany the forlorn case of the widow and fatherless), in that heavy gale at south-east, which happened in the winter of 1799, and drove many vessels from their moorings in Yarmouth Roads, put them past the Humber, and the crews being afraid to make free with the Firth of Forth, even though the wind was fair, were, with others, driven ashore between the Redhead in Forfarshire, and Kinnaird Head in Aberdeenshire, to the number of about thirty sail. Nor were they all saved that weathered Kinnaird Head; several were wrecked in Orkney and Shetland; and the whole loss occasioned by this gale has been stated as high as seventy sail, with many of their crews! amongst which are reckoned two that were known to have been lost upon the Bell Rock. This fatal catastrophe, of which the history of our coast affords few examples, is the more to be lamented, when it is considered that a light upon the Bell Rock, by opening the way to a place of safety, would infallibly have been the means of preventing much calamity, to those who sought safety, with various fortune, in more northern latitudes. In conclusion, it may be observed, that until this improvement of the coast comes from the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, it is much to be feared that the cause continuing, the sad effects will not cease.
(Signed) Robert Stevenson.
To the Honourable the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses.
REPORT by Mr Rennie.
London, 30th December 1805.
Gentlemen,
In consequence of your directions, I set out in a vessel called the Pharos, from Leith, on the 15th of August last, early in the morning, in company with Robert Hamilton, Esq. one of your Commissioners, and Mr Stevenson, your Engineer, to view the Bell or Cape Rock, for the purpose of considering the practicability of building a Light-house thereon. But, owing to the want of wind, we did not get near the Rock till dusk, i. e. about half-past seven, which was near half ebb; but although we were not above a mile distant, we could discover but little of the rock itself. Its situation, however, was sufficiently apparent, by the breakers upon it, which, although the sea was very little agitated where we were, yet the waves were very high on the Rock itself, breaking over it with considerable violence. We approached within less than half a mile of it, and took soundings; but it becoming dark, we judged it advisable to sail further off, and anchored about a mile from the Rock all the night, in expectation we should be able to land on it next morning, which, from the serene appearance of the sky, we doubted not we should be able to effect. We had not dropped the anchor long, when the little wind there was during the day ceased, and it became a dead calm, but, notwithstanding this, there was a heavy swell, and the vessel rolled much. Frequently, during the night, I viewed the place where the Rock lies, and saw the heavy breakers which played about it, till near three quarters flood, when they nearly ceased, and no appearance of such a place was to be observed. They commenced again about quarter ebb, and continued increasing for some time; but, by nine in the morning, the sea became more smooth, and about half-past nine, the rock appearing several feet above water, we left the Pharos in a small boat, and had the satisfaction of landing on it about half-past ten, a little before low water. The spring-tides, however, were rather past their height, being five days after the full moon. We landed on the north-east side of the Rock, in a little bay or inlet, through some breakers, but these were just on the verge of the Rock, for when we got in, the water was quite smooth.
The Rock lies in a direction nearly south-west and north-east, magnetic bearing. That part which was dry, saving some small inlets, I found to be about 280 feet long, and 220 feet wide. Its general surface was about 4 feet above the level of low water, though some places were about 6 feet high. The Rock, however, extends for some distance all round that part which was dry, and dips downward. It extends under the surface for about 400 feet on the south-west side, about 100 feet on the north-east side, and about 50 on the south-east and north-west sides; and on those parts the water is shallow. At about 300 feet south-west, I found about 13 feet water, but, on account of the breakers, could not sound on the low parts of the Rock, or either of the other sides. At the extremities of the main Rock above mentioned, the dip is sudden; the bottom, however, is rocky for a considerable extent round its bed, but the water is deep.
The Rock itself is a hard red freestone, in beds dipping to the south-east, about one in five; these beds are various in their thickness, some being much greater than others; but, generally, well connected together. Such parts as are not immediately exposed to the violent wash of the waves, are coated with a hard crust, and covered with limpets; and, indeed, when it is exposed to the full fury of the sea, there seems to be little appearance of decay, so that I have no doubt, were a Light-house constructed here, no fears need be entertained for the durability of the Rock, as it seems to me well calculated to resist the effects of the waves.