Roses and Rose Growing

by Rose Georgina Kingsley

The enemies of the rose are many. They are of two classes; the insect foes, and diseases caused by Fungi. And their prevention and destruction are tasks, as every rose-grower knows only too well, which call for ceaseless vigilance and constant work, more especially in the early months of the season. For if remedies are applied in good time, the pests of both kinds give comparatively little trouble after May and June until the early autumn, when a fresh crop of both appears.

No such powerful weapon has ever before been put in the hand of the rose-grower, as the remarkable handbook on the Enemies of the Rose, published this spring (1908) by the National Rose Society. For here the veriest tyro can recognize the diseases which puzzle him and the insects which drive him to despair in all stages of their mischievous existence, figured in exquisitely drawn and coloured plates; while in the terse and admirable letter-press he is told how to combat their destructive ways. This little book can be obtained by non-members of the Society for 2s. 6d., through any member; and it ought to find a place on the shelf of every rose lover.

Mildew, of all Fungoid diseases, is the worst we have to contend with. Some roses, such as the lovely H. T. Killarney, the Crimson Rambler, the H. P. Margaret Dickson, and others, are specially subject to this pest; and unless measures are taken against it when the very first sign appears, it quickly spreads to other roses. Two seasons ago a plant of Margaret Dickson had it badly in my garden, and infected its neighbour, [Frau Karl Druschki], to an alarming extent.

This odious disease, though more or less always present in the garden, appears generally in marked strength twice in the season—first in spring, when the foliage is just fully developed, and secondly after the midsummer shoots are grown.

It must be attacked early before it gets any hold, in fact, before it actually shows, if we have reason to suspect its presence. Flowers of Sulphur is the most usual and effective preventive. It is blown over the plants with bellows made specially for the purpose. Floating like a fine cloud all over the garden it settles on every part of the plant. The early morning before the dew is gone is the time to apply it, as the evaporation of the dew has some subtle effect on the sulphur which greatly increases its efficacy. Rev. F. Page-Roberts strongly recommends Black Sulphur instead of the ordinary yellow, used with one of the "Ideal" Powder Bellows, made by W. Wood & Son, Wood Green.

Another preventive, which is advised in the National Rose Society's handbook as extremely efficacious, is syringing with Potassium Sulphide, Liver of Sulphur—half an ounce to a gallon of water. The handbook advises adding a tablespoonful of liquid glue, or the whites of two eggs to every gallon of water, as this causes the solution to adhere better to the foliage. If thoroughly and carefully applied with a very fine syringe, such as the Abol Syringe, using the bend attached to get at the under-side of the leaves where the fungus first appears, this wash acts rapidly upon the pests.

Mo-Effic, a new preparation, has been highly recommended in the last two years. I have not tested it myself. But Mr. Mawley considers it most successful.

Black Spot is another troublesome pest. It attacks the foliage alone, and not only spoils the appearance of the leaves, but so injures them that they fall off prematurely. The disease can be best checked by spraying with the Liver of Sulphur wash, beginning early in the spring and going on at intervals.

Rose Rust and Rose Leaf Scorch may also be combated with Liver of Sulphur wash.

But in all these three last diseases, it is a matter of the greatest importance to collect the badly diseased leaves on the plant, and especially to pick up every one lying on the ground, and to see that they are burnt at once and not thrown on the rubbish heap, where they will only infect the soil.