There is no tide or running back of the water on any side of the Bosphorus into the black Sea, as[12]some have imagined, whose mistake might possibly arise hence, that the wind being at North, and blowing hard, the current sets more violently at such times against the several headlands jetting out into the channel, which admits of several turnings, and so the waters are forced back to some little distance: or else because when the South-wind freshens and grows boisterous, it makes a high rolling Sea in the Propontis and Bosphorous, and being contrary to the current, gives a check to it, so that it becomes less sensible, and is easily stemmed. Where it is narrowest, the distance seems to the eye to be scarce a mile over from one shore to another; where broadest, not much above a mile and a half, unless where it runs into the deep Bays, which by reason of their shallowness only harbour Boats.
The channel certainly is natural and not cut by art, as some have idly fansied, not considering, how the Euxine Sea should discharge it self otherwise of those great quantities of waters, poured into it by the Ister and Tanais, now called Don, and the other Rivers, whereby it becomes less salt, even very sensibly to the taste, than several parts of the Mediterranean.
The Fish, by a strange kind of instinct, pass in vast shoals twice a year, Autumn and Spring, through the Bosphorus, that is, out of one Sea into another, of which the Greeks, who live several months of the year upon them, take great numbers, and supply the markets at easie rates; the Cormorants and other ravenous water-fowl, which the Turks will not suffer to be destroy'd or otherwise molested, preying upon them.
The weather in some months is very inconstant, great heats and colds happening the same day upon the change of the wind.
The winters at Constantinople are sometimes extraordinary severe. I have heard it related by several old Greeks, as a thing most certain that the Bosphorus was frozen over in the time of Achmed, and that a Hare was coursed over it. It hapned thus, that upon a thaw huge cakes of Ice came floating down the Danube into the black Sea, and were driven by the current into the Bosphorus, whereupon the return of the frost, they were fixed so hard that it became passable. In the year 1669 there was Ice in the Haven to the great amazement of the Turks; and some were so frighted at this unusual accident, that they lookt upon it as a dismal prodigy, and concluded, that the World would be at an end that Year. The Aguglia or Obelisk in the Hippodrome is betwixt fifty and sixty Foot high.
The Historical Pillar in basso relievo, raised in honour of the Emperors Arcadius and Honorius, may be in height about an hundred seven and forty feet.
Alexius Comnenus lies buried in the Patriarchal Church against the wall, and his daughter Anna Comnena, the Historian, who lived about the year of Christ 1117. They pretend to shew there the reliques of St. Anastasia, who suffered Martyrdom under the Emperor Valerianus, and of St. Euphemia, Virgin and Martyr, who lost her life most gloriously for Christ's holy religion at Chalcedon under Dioclesian.
In Sancta Sophia there are pillars so great, that a Man can scarce fathom them at twice. At the end of the Gallery, that joins the other two, each about thirty of my paces wide, there is a piece of transparent Marble, two or three Inches thick. In the North gallery upon the Pavement is a reddish sort of a Marble Stone, brought, as the Turks and Christians relate, from Palestine, on which they Fable, that the blessed Virgin used to wash the linnen of our Saviour.
I observed but one step from the Body of the Church to the Bema or place where the Altar formerly stood.
The great Mosch at Chasim-bassa on Pera side to the West, was formerly a Church dedicated to St Theodosia.