9. We were over against the Westermost part of the Alpes, which we distinctly saw at about twenty Leagues distance, and appeared far higher than the Hills of Granada.
10. We sailed by Final and Ventimiglia.
12. We came in the Morning to an Anchor over against the Mole, and not far from the Lantern in Genoa. Having obtained Prattick of the Maestri della Sanita, after a little demur about the Salute, the Senate being assembled, and some of them protesting upon their Honours, and ready to produce their Registers, that they never saluted the Ship wherein was an Ambassador of France or Spain, as not taking any notice of the Person who did bear that Character, 'till they had first intimation, that the Ship was arrived in their Port by its saluting the Town. It was agreed that the Ship should Salute the Town with eleven Guns, which they were to answer, as they did, with an equal number: and after a little pause, they saluted the Ambassador with nineteen more, which was answered with as many. After this, the Duke and Senate sent the Master of the Ceremonies to wait upon the Ambassador: who going away, returned soon after with a Present of Calves, Fowl, Wine, Sweetmeats, &c. and acquainted his Lordship, that they had deputed six of their Gentlemen to Complement him, and wait upon him; which Civility he thought fit to refuse, desiring to be Incognito. But however, going ashore, he was welcomed by the Illustrissimi Signiori, the Durazzo's, two Brothers, the elder of which had been Ambassador for the Republick, in the Court of England, and the other at Constantinople, and by them carried to see the Villas out of Town. The figure of Genoa is Semicircular, beginning from the Lantern Westward, lying under an high Hill, upon the rising of which the several Houses, built of Marble, afford a very fine Prospect, and add much to the Beauty and Glory of the place. Strada nuova perchance is the most stately Street in the whole World. The new Church of the Annunciata, built by the Lomellini, where a thousand may go up the stairs abreast at the same time, for curious Painting, rich Altars, and exactness of Architecture, incomparable. The Duome also and the Church of the Theatins very stately and curious. Other matters I purposely omit.
14. In the Evening we set Sail from Genoa.
Becalmed for the most part these three Days, though helped somewhat forward by the Breezes that blew off the shore after Sun set.
18. In the Afternoon we made the Island Gorgonia, about nine Leagues from Livorne; a little round Island, with a Castle on the top.
19. In the Morning we came to an Anchor in Livorne Road, about a Mile from the Town: the Road large and secure, especially to the Northward. The Ambassador keeps on Board, the Governour refusing to Salute the Ship first, though he had formerly saluted the French; pretending that every Convoy might carry a Flag; and alledging that his Master, the Grand Duke, was as great and absolute, as the Republick of Genoa: and that they had rather throw themselves upon the King of England, than do a thing which might prove of such an ill Consequence. Sir John Finch, his Majesty's Resident, together with Sir Thomas Baines, came from Florence to Complement the Ambassador, and immediately dispatched away a Courier to the Grand Duke about the Salute; who referred the whole Affair to the Governor: and he making a Protest that he was ready to pay all the respect which was due to the Ambassador's Character and Quality, upon the fore-mentioned Pretensions, six days, after our arrival, absolutely refused to Salute the Ship first.
Livorne is the great Magazine of Trade for the Levant, being a free Port: Merchants of all Countries residing here, Armenians especially, and Jews; which latter enjoy great Priviledges, without wearing any distinct Mark in their Hats or Habits, whereby they may be known. They are allow'd the publick Exercise of their Religion: their Synagogue large and handsome. The Port inward has a Mole for the Duke's Galleys and other small Vessels to ride in: the Entrance of which is chained up every Night. Hard by is the Statue of Duke Ferdinand in Marble, raised upon an high Pedestal; under which are four Slaves in Brass, in different Postures, very large, and above the ordinary proportion, but done with exquisite and admirable Art. Two Castles to the Seaward well fortified: the Town Walls very high, and the four Gates strongly guarded: below which is a Ditch of about fifteen or twenty yards over, and very deep. No Stranger is allowed to view the Works, nor Souldier permitted to come out of the Castles. About four thousand Slaves are there, as the Merchants told us, who are lockt up in the Bagno every Night. The Piazza, where the Merchants meet, is adorned with Marble Pillars, which sustain the Porticos: at the East end of which is the great Church whose Roof appears very glorious, having several Circles richly gilded and painted with curious Figures.